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I have an 01 Subaru Forester, I just had to replace the battery yesterday and since I changed it I have had the check engine light on. At first it was flashing and then going off. Now it is on solid with the exception of it flashing twice this morning on the way to work. The flashing seem irratic one time it flashed 12 times and then went off another time it flashed 8 times, 2 times...etc I don't know if that means anything...

I have checked the fuel cap it is secure and I am always careful when putting it on because I have had that problem before. The spark plugs and wires are only about 1 1/2 months old and I check to make sure they were secure.

Any ideas???

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can't think of anything, battery shouldn't cause it. read the code. since there's nothing obvious, it'll be pointless for us to guess over the internet when you have access to the exact cause of the problem.

 

what spark plug wires did you use? if they're not Subaru or Magnecor wires I wouldn't be surprised if it's a "cylinder misfire" code. the EJ motors really do best on Subaru wires only. i've personally seen brand new aftermarkets cause CEL's.

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Flashing of the CEL usually indicates a misfire that's severe enough to potentially damage the catalytic converter; don't wait too long, or you may be facing an expensive job. As was already suggested, getting the trouble code(s) read is a good starting point.

 

By the way, why did you need to change the battery? Was the charging system checked? Low/erratic voltage conditions can sometimes cause sensors to malfunction and the ECU to get "confused".

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Flashing of the CEL usually indicates a misfire that's severe enough to potentially damage the catalytic converter; don't wait too long, or you may be facing an expensive job. As was already suggested, getting the trouble code(s) read is a good starting point.

 

By the way, why did you need to change the battery? Was the charging system checked? Low/erratic voltage conditions can sometimes cause sensors to malfunction and the ECU to get "confused".

 

Well The Battery was old, just assumed it had died, late last week it was slow to get started it is the orginal Battery, so 7ish years old and 208,000kms. I am trying to remember which wires I used I am pretty sure I got them at NAPA so they are for sure aftermarket. Just seemed strange that it happended with in about 2 mins after the battery was swapped out. I will take it over to the place I get the oil changed and see if they can read the codes this afternoon...

One other thing though the Battery I bought, the only one that I could get in the small little town I was in was a sure start and it said "manual transmissions" on it, the guy assured me that this would be okay, not that he seemed to have the slightest clue, but I had no choice...could this be causing a problem as my car is automatic?

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highly doubt that's your problem. the auto trans has a slightly higher amp rated battery. but there's no way for the vehicle to know how many amps the battery is and nor does it care. so long as it starts the vehicle, the battery is doing it's job. it'll start/run on a 12 volt lawn mower battery just fine. you may notice in the winter that the engine is harder to turn over, i don't know how much less they're rated....things could differ some across the border as well, i'm speaking from US experience.

 

have the battery tested, ask the shop, try another batter...and have those codes read. i think i'd just have the codes read immediately. maybe they bumped something while installing...vaccuum hose, etc? if it happened right afterwards it is very suspicious indeed. even if it was battery install related, the code should help track it down.

 

i would never use NAPA wires on an EJ motor, particularly yours, but i'm not saying that's the problem or that they ALWAYS don't work, that's not my point. but these engines are very sensitive unfortunately, not all subaru engines, but this one is. if you get a "cylinder misfire" code in the future or hesitation i would suspect your wires are to blame, just keep that in your hat for later.

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This is kind of a strange problem. It may be that the new battery is causing the alternator output to have some extra noise on the output and causing false error codes to be shown by the ECU, but I have never heard of that kind of thing happening before. I also have never heard of a battery for a manual transmission.

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Well thanks for the information I am going to drive it over to the place next door at lunch and ask them to read the codes for me I will post them here when I get them. Thanks everyone for your continued support! I am clueless when it comes to cars, but I read the posts on here faithfully every day!

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I also have never heard of a battery for a manual transmission.
the auto's are sometimes higher amps, i believe the auto trans is harder to start due to the engine being fixed to the transmission/torque converter even when it's not in gear.

 

autozone and advanced auto parts...and probably others, scan codes for free. they just walk out, plug it in and tell you, or some will just hand you the scanner and you go do it yourself....i wouldn't expect that in the city of course!

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the auto's are sometimes higher amps, i believe the auto trans is harder to start due to the engine being fixed to the transmission/torque converter even when it's not in gear.

 

autozone and advanced auto parts...and probably others, scan codes for free. they just walk out, plug it in and tell you, or some will just hand you the scanner and you go do it yourself....i wouldn't expect that in the city of course!

 

Well I just dropped it off at meineke they are just behind where I work, so we will see what they decide to charge me, although they have been pretty good to me in the past...

They are changing my front valve cover gasket and spark plug rings/gaskets on Thursday that is what really has me worried. My regular mechanic packed it in and I do not know who else to take it to.

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i would never use NAPA wires on an EJ motor, particularly yours, but i'm not saying that's the problem or that they ALWAYS don't work, that's not my point. but these engines are very sensitive unfortunately, not all subaru engines, but this one is. if you get a "cylinder misfire" code in the future or hesitation i would suspect your wires are to blame, just keep that in your hat for later.

Dear Gary:

Might I ask you why never Napa. Have you seen first had issues with these? Last year I bought a set of $ 50.00 Napas. So far no problems at all, but maybe I am In For It.:burnout:

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Ok I got the results back, they did not give me a code but said there is a mis-fire in the #1 cylinder (is this the passanger side?) I have a leaking valve cover gasket on the passenger side so there is oil in the spark plug holes, this was suppose to be replaced about 2 month ago but my mechanic said that it was nothing there was suppose to be a little bit of oil in there...I have the gasket set from Subaru, and I am going to get this replaced on Thursday, is it safe to drive my car until then? They have cleared the codes and so far the light has not come back on (about 35km drive from work to home). Also the spark plug wire that I have a boch premium mag core, are these ok?

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Ok I got the results back, they did not give me a code but said there is a mis-fire in the #1 cylinder (is this the passanger side?)
Yes, #1 is passenger side, front.

 

 

I have a leaking valve cover gasket on the passenger side so there is oil in the spark plug holes, this was suppose to be replaced about 2 month ago but my mechanic said that it was nothing there was suppose to be a little bit of oil in there...
Some cars get internally oil-fouled plugs due to bad piston rings, and some get them externally "fouled" when the plug wells becoming full of oil from gasket leaks. :) Here's what Magnecor says about it on some engines that are particularly prone to the problem: http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/techbulletins/tech_mrbishi1.htm

 

 

I have the gasket set from Subaru, and I am going to get this replaced on Thursday, is it safe to drive my car until then? They have cleared the codes and so far the light has not come back on (about 35km drive from work to home). Also the spark plug wire that I have a boch premium mag core, are these ok?
It should be "safe", since you're taking care of the problem soon. Although the EJ engines seem to like original ignition wires best, if the oil leakage is stopped and the wires can be sufficiently cleaned (and haven't developed carbon-tracking or the like already), you may be able to keep the ones you have. Basically, if you don't get a returning CEL and misfire code once the work is done, you could leave the wires in until they give evidence of a problem.
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here was the first reply to your post:

I wouldn't be surprised if it's a "cylinder misfire" code.

check the oil leaks and use Subaru or Magnecor wires if the problem reoccurs.

 

you are fine to drive with cylinder misfire codes, it's not a big deal and can't hurt anything.

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