Sirlono Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 I have a 99 OBW and am finally motivated to swap out the clutch this weekend. I'm going to pull the engine to get at the clutch; I've searched for some detailed process of pulling an engine but haven't found anything. If anyone can offer some help I'd appreciate it. I think I have most of the details covered but want to be sure I get everything necessary disconnected. A few specific questions: Will I be able to pull the engine with the hood on? Will/should I have to drain the oil if I'm pulling the engine and changing the rear main seal? Is there a good method of locking the flywheel without the Subaru tool? Thanks everyone, Dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 Hi. If you scroll down some on this guy's web page to the head gasket project, he has a number of pictures and description about R&R'ing the engine. This guy appears to like Subaru's, is he a member on here? http://www.staff.uaf.edu/fnjwt/subaru.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sirlono Posted July 18, 2007 Author Share Posted July 18, 2007 Thanks for the link - that was pretty resourceful. It seems excessive to pull the intake off though - I only need to access the clutch. Is it necessary to do that to access pick points for the engine hoist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 Yah I don't know if he says it on that page, but when I first looked at it a year or so ago, he said he removed the intake like that so that the throttle cables and some other stuff didn't have to be removed or something like that. I haven't pulled an engine so I'm not sure if that's a savings or not. There is most likely somewhere on this board a thread with lots of pictures and instructions about engine removal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnceggleston Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 did you see this? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=59033 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ron917 Posted July 18, 2007 Share Posted July 18, 2007 Will I be able to pull the engine with the hood on? Yes, you can leave the hood on. Remove the prop rod from where it hinges on the passenger side. Turn the prop rod over, so the end you normally put into the slot in the hood is on the bottom. There is a metal bracket on top of the passenger side strut tower, with a hole in it that has no apparent purpose. Loop the now-bottom end of the prop rod into that hole. Stick stick the now-top end of the prop rod into the slot in the hood. Now, the hood is propped nearly vertical. Will/should I have to drain the oil if I'm pulling the engine and changing the rear main seal? I would drain the oil, just to avoid a potential mess. Probably not necessary, but that's just the way I work. Is there a good method of locking the flywheel without the Subaru tool? Mine's an auto, so I really can't help you with this one. The job is doable without removing the intake. I removed my intake before yanking the engine, since I was installing a rebuilt engine, I had to remove it at some point anyway. The FSM said to remove it first, but it didn't seem to matter. I wouldn't remove it for a clutch job. I have the FSM on CD, and followed that procedure for my engine swap. The Haynes manual should be OK, but only covers unitl '98, I think. The Haynes manual says there are 4 fasteners connecting the engine and tranny, but for '99 it changed to 8. [edit to fix markup] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
offroadsubaruguy Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 honestly, its much easier to pull the tranny, alot less to deal with taking off, plus all you need is a pair of jack stands and a floor jack....and all of the regular tools of course..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX2FFU Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 honestly, its much easier to pull the tranny, alot less to deal with taking off, plus all you need is a pair of jack stands and a floor jack....and all of the regular tools of course..... +1 for that. Also to hold the flywheel. I put a socket and a breaker bar on the crank bolt and turn/hold the opposite direction. IMO taking the trans out/back can be done with a lot less work and can be less invasive as far as wireing, vacum lines, and hoses in general. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 19, 2007 Share Posted July 19, 2007 yep, the quickest *possible* way period is pulling the transmission. but, i say *possible* because the caveat to that is tools and patience. in the same way that pulling an engine would be very difficult without an engine lift, it's best to have a good jack or suitable method of holding/stabilizing the transmission (adapter plate, transmission jack, straps, extra people helping). it can be done by yourself, but for the first timer this takes time to figure out if you don't have these things. the trans can be out in 30 minutes. but reinstalling the trans is the tricky part, this is where tools/experience come into play. and you're working on the ground, on your back, over your head. pulling the engine keeps thing easier and simpler. so yeah, it can be quicker and easier, just depends what kind of equipment selection you have. it seems engine lifts and familiarity with them is more prominent than transmission jacks or adapter plates or loads of friends wanting to help, so that's why most people pull engines. the EJ25's come out fairly easy though, they're not too bad. leave the hood on and don't touch the intake manifold, not necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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