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What model should I buy? 199X-200X??


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Hi folks,

 

I have been out of the Subaru business for about 8 years. I had a 1981 Subaru GL Station wagon with the 1.8 L 72HP engine. It was a beautiful car in metallic sky blue purchased in Fairbanks Alaska when I was about 4 years old. Came with Aluminum Mag wheels right from the dealer and the outback style front end pushbumper. The Doors had the sport Subaru lettering along the bottom. It became my first car when I was 15 and I overhauled the engine and drove it for a couple more years. I sold it later to a friend when I was in College for a vehicle with a 5 speed transmission, as I was doing a lot of turnpike driving.

 

Anyway, I have been driving older Toyota pickups and SUV's for the last few years and am now looking at buying a Subaru Outback wagon for my wife to get back some decent fuel economy. I like the appearance of the 1997-1999 models the best and they fit my price range, but I am a little alarmed at the number of cars I see on ebay with bad engines. I am looking to spend about $5500 for a car.

 

Can anyone give me some tips on what to aviod or what to look for in these models? I have seen a 2000 or two that are in my price range as well.

 

I will be pulling a small boat with the car, as well as wife and 3 children, A/C, and Oklahoma 100+ temps in the summertime. Will the 2.5L do OK for me, or should I be looking for a 6 cylinder in a newer model? My current vehicles are around 150HP, and they are ok.

 

Did any of the older cars have CD and Casette?

 

Thanks for your input,

 

Kris

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Well, welcome to the USMB, good to have a suby owner back....

 

IMO: Don't get a 1999 Outback Automatic, regardless of milage.

 

2.5 engines are good. Yes, the head gaskets leak, if they have not been done, or done properly. After that, they are OK. I have a 98 Imp RS with 167k on the clock and no issues other than HG.

 

2.2s are better for reliability, longevity, and mileage. I see fewer 2.2s throwing rods than 2.5s, perhaps because those car owners understand the idea behind maintenence, and that it will save you in the long run?...

 

2000 and newer are good as well, Auto trans require more frequent flushes than earlier models. Rear wheel bearings seem to go out more on those constantly carrying a load (5-800 lbs. 24/7). These are nicer, and quiter, and the ride is better. They also have HG too, sometimes warrantied by the dealer up to 100,000 miles, if the "recall" has been done (stop-leak added).

 

It really comes down to what you like and the price you want to pay. Get it checked by a subaru technician, and determine if the short-commings are resonable for the price and worth getting fixed after the purchase. Or negotiate price down....blah, blah... you get the idea.

 

Lewis

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Does the 1999 model have year specific problems that the 98' and 97' models do not have?

 

Does the 2.2L engine exist in any outback models?

 

Having purchased many vehicles I understand the process, and I my Dad is a Master ASE mechanic etc.. but I am want more info on the good and bad points of the car to be aware of. I do not like the appearance of the Forrester and all other models are to small for my family, so I am specifically asking about the Legacy Outback models.

 

Do the cars still have torsion bar type rear suspension? I read somewhere that the front suspension on the newer Subaru's is adjustable, that was not available on my old car and it would have been nice.

 

Thanks!

 

Kris

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You can get a 1996 5spd Outback with the ej22. Only combination of the rugged looking outbacks that you will find it in, unless it been swapped. No more torsion bar suspension, or adjustability these days. Full struts all around. A very much more refined ride than what you once had.

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Each generation just keeps getting better and better. I love this 07 OBW, a leap over the 02 OBW I had before, and it was a quantum leap over the 97 OBW before it. Its been some years but I recall that the 97 automatic had only 4 issues in the 4 years I owned it. It developed a piston slap at about 23 000 km that never progressed to be very loud or annoying, or more of a problem. One rear wheel bearing went south under warranty, the leading edge of the hood started to bubble from rust trapped between its inner and outer skins in a small area, and common on many from that era, the bracket above the licence plate that holds the licence plate lights and the rear hatch release corroded badly because of poor rustroofing at the factory. That was it. It was a great car, other than each of the newer ones were so much better.

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Does the 1999 model have year specific problems that the 98' and 97' models do not have?

 

Speedometer goes tits up, I've replaced 5 so far ('99 model year Legacy Outback). Only replaced 2 "others" in the last ten years.

 

Lewis

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i wouldn't buy one unless it was really, really cheap or the headgaskets have already been changed. great engines, but they loose headgaskets often enough. you can visibly inspect to see if they have new headgaskets, the last one i picked up did and i bought it as a parts car with a good engine. or they are often listed as having been replaced or you can ask the owner.

 

99's often have a delay when shifting issue as well.

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the leading edge of the hood started to bubble from rust trapped between its inner and outer skins in a small area, and common on many from that era, the bracket above the licence plate that holds the licence plate lights and the rear hatch release corroded badly because of poor rustroofing at the factory.

 

 

This is also due to geographical location. And inadequite cleaning practices by the owner.

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Speedometer goes tits up,
lewis, how did you fix those? you have to replace the speedometer cluster itself? got a friend with one like that and the shop she took it too said they've never been able to figure out how to fix the few that they've seen. probably didn't want to mess with the instrument cluster.
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You can get a 1996 5spd Outback with the ej22. Only combination of the rugged looking outbacks that you will find it in, unless it been swapped. No more torsion bar suspension, or adjustability these days. Full struts all around. A very much more refined ride than what you once had.

I'll second this. 2.2L and non-interference engine. Avoid lots of possible hassle with better gas mileage.

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I second the statement of "do not buy a 99 with an auto trany...no matter what the mileage". I wouldn't buy an automatic, period, in the 99 and under models....especially the 99. Hell, just get a stick no matter what and you'll be better off. I just got an 02 legacy gt with a manual trany and am loving it. Much better design....everything is plug and play, it's easier to get at the spark plugs, you don't have to pull the engine when the head gaskets go, cleaner/neater engine compartment, the cup holders are in better spots, nicer window controls, harder to break into...the list goes on. Post 99's are better built.

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