August 20, 200718 yr Hope maybe someone can help with my problem on my 1990 Loyale. The battery, stop lamp etc lights came one after I exited the freeway. So I thought that the alternator was bad. So I changed the alt and still was getting the lights on the dash. I metered the battery at 11 VDC and the same at the alternator. I had both the battery load tested and the new alternator tested 6 times and both checked out fine. The fusible links seem to have good connections and have continuity. The ground to the alternator is good as well as the body. I get DC voltage at all three wires at the alternator. Is there an external voltage regulator that might need changing. Any help would be great, wife is mad car does not run, haha. Thanks in advance
August 20, 200718 yr Replace the fusible links, and check the condition of the large white wire from Fusible link block to Alternator and make sure it's not corroded or brittle
August 21, 200718 yr Author Replace the fusible links, and check the condition of the large white wire from Fusible link block to Alternator and make sure it's not corroded or brittle Checked the white wire from alt, good. Fusible links ohm at 0 ohms and 12 vdc on both sides.
August 21, 200718 yr There most likely is a problem with one of the small wires going to the alternator. Check the voltage on each wire with reference to ground while the engine is running. They should be close to the battery voltage. If one isn't then you need to track that wire and look for a bad connection.
August 21, 200718 yr Is the instrument panel charge light working? Read somewhere if the bulb is blown the alternator will not charge.
August 21, 200718 yr Author Is the instrument panel charge light working? Read somewhere if the bulb is blown the alternator will not charge. Yes lights work, should I get voltage through the light and to the alt in the white w/ red wire to the alt all of the time?
August 21, 200718 yr The warning light is supposed to be on when there is a problem with the alternator or it isn't spinning and the key is ON. The circuit provides current to the exciter to get the field coils energized. If the warning light doesn't work then the alternator will not get the needed exciter voltage to start the process. You should see voltages very close to the battery voltage on both leads while the alternator is working. If a lead voltage is low then you need to see why and follow the lead back through the circuit.
August 21, 200718 yr Author Fixed!!!! Pulled alt out that Checker Auto Parts tested as "good" 6 times and took it back. They tested it again twice and it failed both times. I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. Sounds like Checker's testing machine needs to be tested. Thanks again for everyone's input regarding my problem.
August 22, 200718 yr Fixed!!!! Pulled alt out that Checker Auto Parts tested as "good" 6 times and took it back. They tested it again twice and it failed both times. I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. Sounds like Checker's testing machine needs to be tested. Thanks again for everyone's input regarding my problem. NEVER TRUST A DURA TESTER, THEY DO NOT TEST FOR LOADS, and in general do not work well! When a customer Comes in to my schucks With a starter or alternator problem I prefer to test it in the car. because then you can see the condition of the engine compartment to offer solutions.
August 22, 200718 yr NEVER TRUST A DURA TESTER, THEY DO NOT TEST FOR LOADS, and in general do not work well! When a customer Comes in to my schucks With a starter or alternator problem I prefer to test it in the car. because then you can see the condition of the engine compartment to offer solutions. Old fashioned, crank the car then pull the positive battery cable test, BAD IDEA ON EFI SUBARU!!!! best way to kill your ECU, or so I hear tell. "just sayin'" heh
August 22, 200718 yr Fixed!!!! ... I put a Subaru alternator from the junk yard in and it works like a champ. It was the Internal Charge (voltage / Amp) Regulator, it is some sort of Integrated Circuit, welded in a small base board, along with some sort of Diodes (I write "Some Sort" `cos I don`t know exactly the right english Translation, I hope you`ll Understand) I did fix my Subie`s Alts. I spent around L 600.ºº "Lempiras" (our Currency = around $30.ºº US Dollars) in Parts to fix that. (here, used Alts are Expensive). Maybe is Cheaper in the USA to Fix your subie`s old Alt, so you can count with a good Spare one.
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now