I was dumb and used a 12point socket for the balljoint pinch bolt and now its rounded off. In the case I can get it off with a 6point and some heat, what bolt is used there?

 

Lemme guess... 10mm x 1.5 pitch x 40?

 

Can I get away with grade 8.8, or should I seek out a 10.9?

 

Thx!

I don't have an answer for you, but hopefully someone else will.

10mm x 1.25 pitch x 40

 

All Subaru bolts are 1.25 pitch.

 

8.8 should be fine.

all?

10mm x 1.25 pitch x 40

 

All Subaru bolts are 1.25 pitch.

 

8.8 should be fine.

 

 

thanks!!!

thanks!!!

 

When I removed that pinch bolt, it was so tight I feared snapping it. I could see the bolt head twist but not the thread end turn, by marks.

 

I drilled into the thread end directly, as centered as possible, one inch deep with a 1/8" drill, to relieve some of it's grip. If I was slightly off and it touched the threads, that may have allowed some Pblaster to infiltrate and allow easier removal.

 

I just didn't see a ready way to recover from a snapped bolt there, so I did it as a preventative measure.

I just didn't see a ready way to recover from a snapped bolt there, so I did it as a preventative measure.

 

I could see, in a "pinch" so to speak, drilling the bolt completely out, and using a correct size bolt and lock nut.

 

All?

 

All Subaru bolts/nuts are 1.25 thread pitch, which I am told is "standard" for a Japanese car (Honda etc.), only in America (American made metric) do you get vehicles with the 1.5 thread pitch.

PITA if you ask me, I have to travel about 6 miles to get them, while American type metric is available to me about 2 blocks away.

If you drill it from the other side it should come out and possibly not ruin the threads.

 

Then use a new bolt from a dealership with some anti-seize.

If you drill it from the other side it should come out and possibly not ruin the threads.

 

Then use a new bolt from a dealership with some anti-seize.

 

If you are replacing the balljoint the will usually come with a new bolt

Mine did not. No new castle nut or cotter pin either.

 

It was OEM from subiegal btw.

Mine did not. No new castle nut or cotter pin either.

 

i got mine from advance auto it came with the pinch bolt castle nut and cotter pin. i guess i just got lucky

Away with the 12 point sockets, I am in the process of replaceing mine with six point. I had the same thing happen to a oil drain bolt on a chev. with a 12 point but was able to take it right off with a six.

I was dumb and used a 12point socket for the balljoint pinch bolt and now its rounded off. In the case I can get it off with a 6point and some heat, what bolt is used there?

 

Lemme guess... 10mm x 1.5 pitch x 40?

 

Can I get away with grade 8.8, or should I seek out a 10.9?

 

Thx!

I just didn't see a ready way to recover from a snapped bolt there, so I did it as a preventative measure.

 

I could see, in a "pinch" so to speak, drilling the bolt completely out, and using a correct size bolt and lock nut.

 

 

I heated the knuckle up pretty good last night but couldn't get the bolt to turn. Now I have one bad bolt head and one melted balljoint boot :-\

 

I drilled the other side last year, maybe I'll have to do the same to this side.

if I may make a suggestion - try melting some parifin wax into the gap on the knuckle...

heat the area of the pinch bolt and then drip some melted wax into that area keeping the heat applied so the wax can seep into the threads. May help.

the other half uses this method on his work truck frequently when PB just wont cut it.

 

you should be able to get the parifin wax at your local grocery store - it is used to create a wax seal when making jellies and jams. a brand name is Gulf Wax...