subarari Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 So I'm having a problem on my 86 DL after my headgasket, timing belt repair. I changed all the hoses, water pump etc. and it's still running hot. After it warms up it'll run with the temp guage at midpoint, then when I drive it it'll heat up to about 3/4 till the red mark. I noticed that my cooling fan wasn't coming on which was really weird since the switch works and there's current in the wires with the ignition on, so I just bypassed it and now it runs all the time with the ignition on. This should've solved the problem right? Wrong, even with the fan on all the time it still runs hot. As I'm driving it on the highway it slowly starts creeping up to the 3/4 mark again. The only thing I haven't changed yet is the radiator. Before I changed my headgaskets I used a bars leak to try to seal the headgasket, I know it was a stupid idea , but I get lazy at times, do you think this S#IT is clogging my radiator and block from cooling properly? If so can I use a cooling system cleaner? Any ideas at all will help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Beast I Drive Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 try replacing the radiator with an all metal one, they are only like 150 bucks and they are a drastic improvement over the stock one. But first I would try flushing the whole thing with some kind of cleaner if there is such a thing. Also test the heater core and flush it too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 It almost sounds to me that the thermostat isn't opening. I had the same exact problem. Mine would sit and idle for as long as you wanted and not heat up past half, but as soon as you drove it, maybe a half mile it was up by the red. I would try swapping that as it's the cheapest and easiest replacement. Don't be tempted by the cheap $4 one though, I got a faulty one out of the box. I picked up the $10 "Superstat" and everything has been perfect since. Make sure to bleed the system real good. Jacking the very front of the car up (while bleeding the system) helps alot too to get all the air out of the heater core. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Replace the thermostat with an OEM on general principle. They are about $12 from the dealer, so don't cheap out on any aftermarket products. They aren't the same. Then get the air out of your system. It's the air bubble's that are causing your problem. You need to "burp" the system. It takes time and patience to do it right. Massage the radiator hoses while filling the system with the car slightly uphill. There needs to be NO air in the system for it to perform correctly. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94Loyale Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Good call GD, not too many people know to do that. And I don't know if it was just my car, but it took awhile (maybe 10, 15 minutes) of running to bleed all the air out. Just be patient Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Yeah - it seems to be mostly an EA82 problem. With the EJ22 they realized what a pain this is and added an "air release" plug that you remove while filling the radiator. It's on the opposite end of the radiator over the top of the upper hose. You can accomplish this with the EA82 by slightly pulling off the upper hose where it connects to the radiator and allowing air bubbles to escape while you are filling it. Makes a mess of course, but if you have about 4 hands you can do it without much trouble. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 air bubbles thermostat napa stant superstat waterpump impeller slipping on shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Don't ever use any sealant on a subaru cooling system. It clogs everything up. My suggestion is to do what the others have told you as far as burping the systema dn putting in a new t-stat. If that doesn't fix the problem don't waste your time on flushing. The over the counter flushes are crap due to EPA rulings. Get yourself a dual core radiator and drop that in. You can mess with all of the other stuff and end up overheating the engine and cracking a head. The 150.00 for the rad is cheap insurance. Personally, I replace the radiator with a dual core as soon as I buy a new ea82 car. Like I said, cheap insurance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 You can mess with all of the other stuff and end up overheating the engine and cracking a head. The N/A heads rarely crack. If you are careful, and patient, you won't overheat it at all. It's a procedure, and you can stop at any time if you find it is not working (IE: temp gauge too high). He lives in CA - his radiator is almost certainly still good. While a dual core is nice, it's most likely uneccesary for him. At any rate there's no point in wanton replacement of parts without first eliminating possible air in the system. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I told him fto first follow your directions. Only if the problem persists should he replace the rad. I do think that he has a clogged rad due to the use of his "fix in a bottle". That has nothing to do with his living in California. Those stop leak fixes only cause more trouble than they are worth. As far as the heads cracking, I speak from experience having had one crack on me with only a mild overheat in virginia, but even so I don't think he wants to go the route of having to replace the HG's again. I've also seen several NA engines overheat with devastating results, just not worth the end result. You are a competent mechanic and very well versed in these issues, he is not and I would rather err on the side of caution. That is what I do with my personal vehicles so that I don't have to listen to the rantings of a mad wife when she is stuck somewhere. 150.00 is cheap insurance against cooling system failure when he is out somewhere and needs to get home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdjdc Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 I recommended that he first follow your suggestions. If they don't work then he should replace the rad. I think he clogged the rad by using the "fix in a bottle." These stop leak fixes only cause more trouble than they are worth. As far a cracked heads, I speak from experience. I cracked a head after only a momentary overheat in virginia. Heat is the enemy and he lives in California. You are a well versed mechanic and he doesn't appear to be. I err on the side of caution so that I don't hear the sounda of a ranting wife when she is stuck somewhere. 150 buck is cheap insurance against that. Also if he overheats he will have to replace the HG's again and I don't think he wants to do that. In my opinion, the dual core rad is bothe a good upgrade and cheap insurance against problems down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 Before I changed my headgaskets I used a bars leak to try to seal the headgasket, I know it was a stupid idea , but I get lazy at times, do you think this S#IT is clogging my radiator and block from cooling properly? Yes. Get a new radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sonicfrog Posted January 4, 2008 Share Posted January 4, 2008 New rad. Dual core it!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 I missed the part about the stop-leak stuff initially..... I tried it ONCE.... worthless. And I had to replace the heater core for my effort. It can and does clog everything in sight so you may need to replace the radiator at this point. $150 is a bit high - check ebay. Frankly unless you have a turbo I don't feel there is a need for the dual core's. It's nice but if money is an issue then a stock replacement should get you going again. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted January 5, 2008 Author Share Posted January 5, 2008 So I know it has a new radiator, at least 2 years or newer, I put in a new oem t-stat when I did the job. I'm thinking a clog, or maybe a loose belt because this is what happened the other day. I've been driving it around town slow, but I decided to feel if it had more power after the fix, at this point the guage was at 3/4 or so, I pounded it up to 4th and watched the temp guage I noticed it drop quickly, then come back up. Maybe It blew through a clog and then clogged again? Or maybe the belt caught and pushed the water through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted January 5, 2008 Share Posted January 5, 2008 It doesn't matter if the radiator was put in last week. Once you put the Radiator clog additive in it, it's shot. It will never "push it through" there is nowhere for it to go. And besides it may have "flow" and not be entirely clogged yet still no function to cool the engine. It's barely functional with a low demand, but romp on the engine and it can't keep up. This is a classic symptom of a radiator that cannot handle the cooling load placed on it. Even with the fan on all the time, it cannot transfer away enough heat, because the additive is coating the inside of every passage in the radiator, reducing the diameter of the tube for flow. While at the same time increasing the thickness of the tube wall. This insulates the inside and decreases heat transfer ability. Less flow + plus less conductivity(of heat)= overheating Replace the radiator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subiemech85 Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 BEFORE you replace the radiator, check it's function with a temp gun take the rad to a rad shop, and they can flush and restore the performance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted January 6, 2008 Share Posted January 6, 2008 take the rad to a rad shop, and they can flush and restore the performance The cost is close to what a new radiator cost. Radiator/cooler service is for larger, more expensive, or more exotic coolers. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
subarari Posted January 6, 2008 Author Share Posted January 6, 2008 I think I'll skip the radiator shop...I took a Z radiator in to be recored and $300 later I realized I could've bought an aftermarket one and saved some money. Anyway I think the radiator is a good idea, I guess I'll go with a 2 row and while I'm at it check the belt tension. I got a question about cracked heads though, would they exhibit the same symptoms as a blown headgasket, but go away after the car reached temperature due to the expansion of the metal which would probably seal the crack? Also what does burning coolant smell like out of the exhaust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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