garthpro Posted January 30, 2008 Author Share Posted January 30, 2008 coil pack was OEM new I will get the valves done. next maybe injectors too? that seems to be more likely due to the gas mileage drop that is a new thing. in the last month. and the HG was done in apriil 07. no problem showed for some time after that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 If I remember correctly (and that can be a problem at times), other posters have cured this problem by changing out one of the following items. The O2 sensor, knock sensor, and CAS sensor. Since the MPG has dropped I suggest you make sure the CTS sensor for the ECU is working as it should be by checking the voltage across it as the engine warms up. Also check the resistance of it at operating temperature and see if that meets spec. I would check the CTS first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OB99W Posted January 31, 2008 Share Posted January 31, 2008 Some food for thought: "Misfire" isn't the same as "failure of spark to jump the plug gap". Plug misfiring is an ignition problem, but P0304 indicates cylinder misfiring, which means that the mixture didn't properly ignite and produce expected power. While that could be caused by a bad spark, it's certainly not the only possibility. Because the ignition is wasted-spark type, given that the wires, plugs and coil were all changed, it's unlikely that any of them is the culprit especially since cylinder #3 (the one paired with #4 as far as ignition goes) isn't throwing a misfire code. Platinum plugs should be of the "double" type, because one plug of each wasted-spark pair runs with reversed polarity. Injectors can be swapped in position and a determination made if the problem switches cylinders. Unless I missed it, I haven't seen any indication that compression or leakdown testing was done. If it's checked and okay, and injection problems ruled out, it would make it that much more likely that valve adjustment is needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 cool So I get home from the roadtrip, reset after reading the 0304, and do some city driving. It came back on of course, but today when I read the codes, I got misfires in 2,3,& 4 ! P0302,-3,-4 I will do compression test when I get back out to the heated garage and report back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 Have we tried the coil pack test, i dont remeber. With the car running, in the dark (a full moon is best), spray t with water out of a mister, and see if you see any stray sparks. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 have not tried it but will I saved the old one, but put a new oEM on 2 weeks back. I might try them both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted February 1, 2008 Share Posted February 1, 2008 have not tried it but willI saved the old one, but put a new oEM on 2 weeks back. I might try them both. Why must you rain on my parade nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted February 1, 2008 Author Share Posted February 1, 2008 they say it never rains in southern california, But it pours, man it pours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted February 16, 2008 Author Share Posted February 16, 2008 hallelu-jah, amen, praise him. It was the valves! ETC over on the other boards gave me the steps and I finally got into a heated garage with a rack. took about 45 minutes. drrove in start stop for over an hour today and no codes. but #4,3,2 were all tight on the exhaust side. and the degree of tightness corresponded to the percentage of codes for that #. ie 4 was totally tight, ,1 was least tight. I didn't measure them, just pushed the .010 in reset it. if you recall, I last got codes in 4,3,1 so that's it I hope./ I will report again if something else comes up. There is a mysterious oil leak, seemed to be a blown pan gasket, so I cleaned it all up and re siliconed the pan. I'll have to wait a fdew weeks as there was no way to get all the leaked oil out of the tailpipe heat shild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted May 3, 2008 Author Share Posted May 3, 2008 The shiite storm keeps coming, and I keep dodging the logs! I thought there was some sort of tranny leak, turns out the oil separater pan was leaking onto the clutch! = slippage at high speed or hi revs, = lower gas mileage on Highway, like 15-16mpg! I can only guess that this was due to the overheat of the blown HG?! new clutch, since the old one was soiled, new pan, and oh yeah, new rear main just cause I F'd up and yanked it before I knew any better. so 700$ for parts and labor, (I gave my buddy a few hungie for his help and shop, cost on parts!) and here we go again. first road trip was yesterday, 90 mph all the way to the trail head ~100 miles, and 26.7mpg, not bad. let's see if this will get me form 220k to 330k! thanks to anyone who helped out on this project. oh yeah, ps, got a light at the end of the trip, but F it. I will get on that when I get time. gas mileage is the only check I really go by, they call them IDIOT lights for a reason! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted December 18, 2008 Author Share Posted December 18, 2008 I thought I finalized this one, but turned out I had a leak up in the clutch housing area. Changed out rear main and Oil separator plate. cleaned it all up. ran great until a few weeks ago, great mileage, 27ish. then started losing oil. Now I am seeing oil down under that clutch area again. and mileage is dropping. I think the clutch is covered with motor oil again. time to hit the books again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 A couple of notes if any is reading this. It is much easier to pull the engine than the tranny, and work forward. If you can, pull the entire engine out! takes about 1 hour with a hoist and something to lift engine with, we used a forklift. The rear main is picky, NOTE how far in it sits. that little access port on the left as you look into it should have the o-ring behind it replaced as welll. NO one has it in stock, so before you start, order it or be prepared to make one out of permatex or some other sealant. I hope that works! still getting a code 420, catalytic efficiency low, bank #1. ANyone out there have an idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted January 30, 2009 Share Posted January 30, 2009 Hey guys, there has been all kinds of suggestions about ignition systems. While very often these are the cause of problems here is something to think about. If the fuel injector on the problem cylinder is not sealing well ,or bleeding this will happen. If you think about it, problem often occurs under acceleration. On acceleration the duty ratio of the injector increases ( richens ) if the injector is already richer than it should be when the computer increases the ratio than it may be flooding the cylinder, causing the misfire light and poor fuel economy at the same time. Just some thing to think about and check. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garthpro Posted January 30, 2009 Author Share Posted January 30, 2009 how would one check that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abog Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 There are electrical checks, but all they will tell you is if the injector and ecm are working electrically. Probably the easiest and cheapest way to check a injector mechanically would be to swap it's position in the engine and see if the code follows it. Be very careful when removing injectors. Make sure that the fuel pressure has been blead down , sometimes they can be hard to get out. Make sure that you check the o'rings that seal them into the rail for cuts etc. If they are reluctant to come out, try soaking the area of the o'rings with penetrating oil and slowly work them out. Injectors are pricey so you dont want to damage one, not knowing if they are bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted January 31, 2009 Share Posted January 31, 2009 Last week I saw 2 cars that had a P0304 code that was caused by somebody not getting the air filter box down into the tabs correctly allowing a large air leak at the bottom seam of the air box. Happened both times after both cars had been to Grease Monkey (im saying probably same employee not that Grease monkey is bad necessarily) The Cat code P0420 (Catalyst efficiency) is the most PITA code at times but also can be caused by the airbox leak. If it was my car I would check the air filter box first. Replace the front oxygen sensor 2nd, and drive the car 5K miles or so afterwards and see if the code stays off. Keep it simple stupid is the KISS principle. Don't overcomplicate the car until its necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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