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Found a 2000 Forester for $4k ... Advice? Feedback? Warnings?


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I'm about to test-drive a 2000 Forester... 80k miles, Salvage title. It FEELS like a steal. HOWEVER ...

 

In order of :eek:

 

  • Head gaskets ... and I've read some about the hed gaskets here & there. It leaks on the ground, not into the oil. I'm gonna kinda assume this basically means a re-seal, timing, oil, water pump, etc? Basically what I did with my Loyale (didn't do head gaskets, tho). Any rough numbers on what I'm gonna spend? I can do the labor.
  • Power Steering Pump (I already got prices from $200-$250)
  • Boots are torn (axles are $150 for both of them, so that's not horrible).
  • Passenger Side Power Window doesn't work - sounds like it's the switch, not the motor.

 

I'm sure I'll find out more tonight. I know my way around cars, and I have a 90 EA82 that I did some pretty major work on last year, but the question is ... What to pay for this car, given the expectation of what i'll have to do with it. I think this has 15"s on it, so I go from $150 for all 4 tires to $150 PER tire, hehe ... mileage SEEMS to be roughly the same - a little less, it appears ...

 

I've already driven it once - a few days ago, and he still doesn't have a buyer for it. I'm going to pick it up & get it on the lift here in a few minutes ... I was just wondering what y'all think.

 

The guy says he BOUGHT it totalled & did the fix-up in 2001, and he's had it since. His wife drives a totalled/salvage Jetta that he did the same thing on ... meaning, that's just how he gets cheap(er) cars, which is fine. I have a tendency to drive cars until they are ready to give away / junk, so as long as it's reliable, I don't necesarily mind that the lines of the hood/fenders arent perfect. This will be one of the newest/nicest cars I've owned. Usually, I buy a $400 junker and spend $2k on it to make sure it always starts.

 

I totally value y'all's opinion - this is a great bunch of Folks - wanted to get some feedback from ya ... He's got it posted for $4000, and I've already warned him that I'm going to find a lot wrong with it, and he seems flexible ... the question is ... how flexible should he be? Am I nuts to buy a Salvage at all? Would I be nuts to turn it down if he would let it go for say, $3000? $3500?

 

It would ALSO mean (gulp...) that I'd graduate from the "Older Genreation of Subarus" to THIS Forum, hehe! Maybe you guys should tell me to run!! hehehe!

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Well, took him on a pretty major test ride yesterday ... came up with a few more ...

  • Pulley for the PS pump is bad
  • Front brakes (both sides ... rotors seem ok)
  • Drivers Inner Tie Rod
  • Rear Drivers Side axle Boot
  • Rear License Plate Bulb, hehehe.
  • The ceiling console clock
  • Cruise control doesn't work

Are these 2.5's supposed to 'tikkatikkatikka'? My EA82 has that noise, but it's nothing severe.

 

All-in-all, I figure its worth $1k in parts to bring that up to speed. Labor is on me ... but that brings the price from $4 to $3....

 

The owner told me he has another possible buyer on Sunday. I told him that We'd talk after the other person saw it. I'm figuring, if this other person picks it up, I wouldn't have been in the ballpark anyway. And I figure if the other person doesn't buy it, it'll put the owner into a better place to accept my lowball ... I'm going to go in at $3k and see what he says. I have to admit - I like the car, but I started really eyeballing the OBWs out there ...

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Why is it a salvage title? It must have been pretty bad for the price to be so low. 4K is WAY below book value.

 

Check www.NADA.com

 

www.edmunds.com

www.kbb.com

 

The things you mention wrong are minor, with exception of the headgasket and that is not the owners fault. Subaru has been doing goodwill repairs on those leaking gaskets for extremely low mileage 2.5s, (such as this one), even beyond their extended warranty/coolant fix 8 years/100k. Contact them and be nice! This Forester may still even be under that warranty, depending on the delivery date.

 

3K is kinda insulting, but then again I have not seen the vehicle, nor do I know why it's a salvage title. Salvage titles can pull values down significantly. If the title was clear, I'd say walk to you if you offered me 3K. Shop wisely. Hope you get a good deal.

 

And yes the noise you hear is "piston slap". It's normal. Louder when cold and then should quiet. Lot's on the board. Research Piston slap/2.5

 

Post some pics......hell I might be interested for 3K!

 

Best, Todd

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Ceiling clock inoperable... walk away.

Actually, it's a common faulty/loose resistor. Easy fix.

Find out if the car was treated to the head gasket "fix" by Subaru that would give you the extended warranty. 100K 8yrs. Call SOA and give them the vin#.

SOA just added a stop leak goop to the coolant and off you go.

PS Don't fall in love with this car especially if'n you're lookin' at an OB with wandering eyes.

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3K is kinda insulting, but then again I have not seen the vehicle, nor do I know why it's a salvage title. Salvage titles can pull values down significantly. If the title was clear, I'd say walk to you if you offered me 3K. Shop wisely. Hope you get a good deal.

Yeah, I know - that's why I wanted to make sure he let someone else have a shot at it.

 

Salvage titles really scare people, and sometims with good reason. If they're flooded, the car can look just fine, but have electrical problems up the wazoo forever. In this case, he said that insurance companies often go ahead & total out a car when it's near-new, simply because of the customer expectaion. I've heard that other places, too.

 

In this particular car, it was in a front-end collison. And this rings true from what I saw when the car was on the lift - there were welds on the crumple-zones behind the radiator, and it looks like both front wheel assemblies were replaced (marked with "FR" and "FL" on the backs of the housings in front). So hood, fender, radiator, axles, wheels, some front structural stuff, grille, etc. So quite a lot. You can tell if you look really closely, too. The hood lines dont completely match the fender lines in-paralell, if you look closely.

 

But it went down the road straight, and the tire wear was nice & even.

 

Ceiling clock inoperable... walk away.

Heh heh ... yeah, that and one of the license plate lights.... hehe.

 

Find out if the car was treated to the head gasket "fix" by Subaru that would give you the extended warranty. 100K 8yrs. Call SOA and give them the vin#.

Yep. I did call SOA - and they told me they didn't honor the gasket fix because of the salvage title. So that's one bad thing. But yeah - I'd be doing a lot more anyway at same time.

 

PS Don't fall in love with this car especially if'n you're lookin' at an OB with wandering eyes.

I hear ya. I looked at a '99 OBW today, too - 170K mikes on the ODO. But DAYUM it was in good shape. Not as tight as the Forester from yesterday, but still pretty solid. I can't believe these things weigh 1,000lbs more than my Loyale! But 90hp pushing my 2400lbs is SOOO wimpy compared to 165 throwing around 3400lbs ... no comparison!

 

I'm gonna miss spending $140 for 4 new tires, tho ....

 

 

Edited: Forgot - both airbags blew in the wreck. He said they've been replaced but not "activated" whatever that means. Dealer only.

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Find out if the car was treated to the head gasket "fix" by Subaru that would give you the extended warranty. 100K 8yrs. Call SOA and give them the vin#.

.

 

Salvage title = warranty is null and void.

 

So all those reconstructed WRX's that were out a little while ago with only 8000 miles??? No warranty at all!

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Well, he called me & wants to talk tomorrow ... that's a good sign.

 

I have maybe a dumb question for y'all ... does the back seat fold-down flat, like the Loyale/OBW? meaning, does the back seat fold forward to let the back seats lay flat? It didn't look like it, but I was wondering if it was just something I missed ...

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Well, he called me & wants to talk tomorrow ... that's a good sign.

 

I have maybe a dumb question for y'all ... does the back seat fold-down flat, like the Loyale/OBW? meaning, does the back seat fold forward to let the back seats lay flat? It didn't look like it, but I was wondering if it was just something I missed ...

In my 2000 Legacy, you first roll the rear seat portion forward (there's a release strap about midway across the seat) and then the back portion will lay flat. Otherwise, the back portion lays on a slant atop the seat portion.

I am dubious about the air bag issue. I wonder if the dealer will ever "activate" an airbag that they didn't install... How do collision repair shops handle this situation... Were the front sensors even replaced... How will your insurance company look upon a salvage title AND there's still that nagging question about the inoperative clock!

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In this particular car, it was in a front-end collison. And this rings true from what I saw when the car was on the lift - there were welds on the crumple-zones behind the radiator, and it looks like both front wheel assemblies were replaced (marked with "FR" and "FL" on the backs of the housings in front). So hood, fender, radiator, axles, wheels, some front structural stuff, grille, etc. So quite a lot. You can tell if you look really closely, too. The hood lines dont completely match the fender lines in-paralell, if you look closely.

 

 

 

Front end crash on a interference engine? Did the timing belt break?

Wonder if its the same engine?

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I have maybe a dumb question for y'all ... does the back seat fold-down flat, like the Loyale/OBW? meaning, does the back seat fold forward to let the back seats lay flat? It didn't look like it, but I was wondering if it was just something I missed ...
AFAIK, none of the Forester seats fold down flat. The rear seat bottom does not pull up. It's the one reason I quit looking at them (in 2000). My show dog at that time did not like riding on a slanted seat, and positively whined his head off at the dealer when I popped him into that shiny new Forester. That angle is tough on other cargo - you should look at the inside edge of the rear gate. Bet it's dented from sliding cargo.

 

I have to say I'm thinking I'd run from this sale. I've had two vehicles hit in the front and they never worked right afterwards. Little issues popped up here and there for years until I was fed up and got rid of both cars. If you can't get the car for $3 or under, you know there's a lot of issues with it. No warranty due to the salvage title. Lots of little things which were never repaired to spec. If that was the case, what else wasn't done - or done right? I know it's a big price slash off of a new one, but you have to decide if it's worth buying a potential money pit or not.

 

But that's up to you. Are you willing to fix it before you can use it, or do you need a car to drive right now? If you can do the work yourself (and trust what wasn't done by you), if you can get it cheap enough it's worth a try.

 

I can guarantee you won't find a non-salvage 2000 Forester for $3000 anywhere I've been!

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