to start binding...

 

Im so pissed at this, Im seeing red.

 

Turns out 1996 still have the multiple pieces instead of the one replaceable unit the later ones have..

 

800 labor to take R&R not including parts.

 

Now why the heck does it take 15 minutes to start binding when it works just fine prior to that?

 

Are you SURE??? I can't change the transmission gear oil and make it go away?

 

Otherwise the 5 spd manual works just fine.

Have you measured all your tires circumferences ?

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/SuggestedInfo.pdf

They must be the same make/size and tread design aswell

 

SEA#3

my 5 spd manual 96 legacy started torque binding a few thousand miles ago......it did exactly what you are descirbing.....mine only did it after the car was warmed up and i guess the VC just stopped shearing the fluid and BAM torque bind.....i ended up replacing my trans with a good used unit because of other problems...but after i got my car back on the road i pulled the VC out of the old trans and it is much easier than you would think to get it out......i put a thread out there a while ago about my TB problem and i think WAwalker did i nice spread going step by step how to replace it.....you can even do it with the trans in the car........oh, mine is a one piece unit.....just pull it out and plop a new or used good one back in....... but yes as sea#3 said check your air psi. first...... ah here is the link...... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=83952 from what i have read on here people have more success on the automatics by changing the fluid than on the manuals.....i changed my trans gear oil regularly sense i got the car but i think it was too late.....with 190,000 miles and 5 or 6 different owners im pretty sure my unit was just worn out

What date is your Outback built on? ie.. production date.. According to Subaru mine is NOT a one piece and yet it is a 1996 Model as well..

lets see on the door jam on the id plate it says......08/95 mine is just a legacy L though.....i would find it hard to believe they are different.....

The price is correct.

 

It really depends upon the kind of driving you have done, and at what speed on each trip. The fact that is grabbing just means that its not going to go away.

 

Check tire preasures and wear.

 

The viscous coupling is a sealed unit filled with silicon. You can change tranny lube to your hearts content, but it wont have any effect.

 

 

nipper

All Subaru viscous couplers are sealed units.

 

It takes 15 minutes because the heat builds up in it and the fluid in the trans surrounding it to heat up and match.

 

The part alone is 450 bucks. Go buy it and take the tailhousing off your transmission and replace it. Its really a lot easier than it looks. More time consuming than anything but you wont be any happier smelling the 75W90 oil than you are about the price of the part.

 

Remember, failure causes for this part:

Driving with mismatched tires...this can even mean putting one new one on with 3 used ones of exactly the same tire. It matters.

150K miles plus...pretty common time to fail.

Hard driving on pavement such as Autocross/rallycross. These last "under normal conditions" a long time.

Excessive heat in the transmission would likely cause premature failure. Heavy towing, or yanking somebody out of a ditch with the wheels turned for example. If it would have caused the trans in a true 4wd tranny to bind, you are stressing the coupler a little.

to start binding...

 

Im so pissed at this, Im seeing red.

 

800 labor to take R&R not including parts.

 

 

If you're able to, have you shopped around? I had mine replaced by a dealer in Atlanta and the whole thing only cost me right around $900, including parts. Part was $450 or so, and 5 hours of labor at $90/hour.

If you're able to, have you shopped around? I had mine replaced by a dealer in Atlanta and the whole thing only cost me right around $900, including parts. Part was $450 or so, and 5 hours of labor at $90/hour.

 

Where in Atlanta did you have the work performed? I might have the same problem.

Search around for the viscous coupling. Last year mine went out and someone posted an excellent write-up on the difference between the early and later units along with pictures.

 

I had a family friend that had a bad coupling of the later version. He bought a new one from Subaru (just over $500) and installed it himself without trouble. He wasn't one of those that thrived on mechanical ability and I was impressed. Sounds to me that it would be an easy job for most "shade tree" mechanics.