Looking on Autozone's website they show a timken bearing for my Brat 1 for 19.99. I am fairly certain that it takes 2 tapered wheel bearings. Please confirm this for me.

 

http://www.autozone.com/R,APP305321/vehicleId,1682502/initialAction,partProductDetail/store,353/partType,00168/shopping/partProductDetail.htm

See on the website where it says "inner or outer" ?

 

That means = 2 per side

 

Also, not to nitpick, but these bearings are press or "drift" in. Theyre not tapered.

 

 

EDIT: Theres also a real nice writeup on here somewhere (with good pics) if youre tackling this as a weekend project

See on the website where it says "inner or outer" ?

 

That means = 2 per side

 

Also, not to nitpick, but these bearings are press or "drift" in. Theyre not tapered.

 

There's a shoulder that keeps them separated and a spacer that goes in there too... learned that the hard way when a "professional" tried pressing them out with a gazillion pounds of pressure... when they didn't move, he heated them til he warped my hub. You remove the old ones from the center out.

Bearings are pretty simple though time consuming.. Once the knuckle is out it takes about 15-20minutes per knuckle. I use a piece of threaded iron pipe to tap them in.. and finish make sure they are seated with a piece of brass rod and a hammer.

Here you go, right out of the USRM.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77491

 

There are four, two per side, all the same bearing number, 6207.

Get inner and outer seals too.

It still amazes me how big they are, they're as big as the ones in my full size Ford!

Rather than pounding the bearings in, it's better to draw them in with a large peice of all-thread, some nuts, a section of iron pipe and some washers.

 

Pounding on the races is bad - if you have to - do it evenly using a proper sized driver or section of pipe with a cap on the hammer end.

 

The reccomended procedure is to use a press - but even then only a hand operated arbor press is all that's required. The fit is not all that tight. Heating the knuckle and putting the bearings on ice will make them go in very easily actually.

 

Overall the job is quite easy - but it's also easy to screw up the bearings and have them not last very long.

 

As mentioned replace the seals and DO NOT put too much grease inside the knuckle. In fact you should just order sealed bearings. If it's a 6207, then order a 6207-2RS for sealed, or a 6207-ZZ for sheilded. Sealed and sheilded will come pre-greased and offer another layer of protection over open bearings.

 

And just go to a bearing house - ordering from an auto parts store has no advantages when it comes to bearings.

 

GD

I bought two bearings. Plan to have them replaced, MWE axle installed, balance rotate and front end alignment tomorrow. Thanks for the info guys.

 

When I seen the part number tonight I was quite shocked. I work for a larger Schaeffler Group warehouse and see a ton of these bearings each night. Just about all of them are made in Korea.

Just about all of them are made in Korea.

 

You pays your money and you takes your choices. Here, you can choose Chinese for around $3 each, or Swiss/German for around $30 each.

The ones I purchased were made in Japan.

 

Customers who order parts made in Korea are real particular about them. Many require a little label about the size of a green bean with "Made in Korea" written on it. Of course the German made equivalent is a good chunk of change more.

 

I work for INA www.ina.com and our sister company operates next to us, it won't let me spell out the name of it but its a real bearing company. www.colinx.com and look for the red lettering.

I generally like the SKF's - the better ones are made in Austria.

 

We also use a lot of F AG (without the space) bearings in the shop for the cheaper equipment - mostly made in korea, ect. But Korean is better than Chinease I would think.

 

GD

I bought two bearings. Plan to have them replaced, MWE axle installed, balance rotate and front end alignment tomorrow. Thanks for the info guys.

 

When I seen the part number tonight I was quite shocked. I work for a larger Schaeffler Group warehouse and see a ton of these bearings each night. Just about all of them are made in Korea.

 

The bearings are used in a lot more than Subarus. I've seen them listed for snowmobiles and lawn mowers!

That's a common motor and pump bearings size -ZZ-C3 is motor bearing rated - higher quality.

 

GD

Came across some 6207 bearings tonight in INA going to Harley-Davidson that I had to do the industrial bar code labels for. Made in Taiwan FTW.

Came across some 6207 bearings tonight in INA going to Harley-Davidson that I had to do the industrial bar code labels for. Made in Taiwan FTW.

 

LMAO....i don't think theres much left in harley's that is actually manufactured in america anymore

LMAO....i don't think theres much left in harley's that is actually manufactured in america anymore

 

I'd love to see a parts sheet that shows the country of origin of all the parts on a Harley. So the next time some instant biker tries to give me crap about my Yamaha, I can just show him the list.

I'd love to see a parts sheet that shows the country of origin of all the parts on a Harley. So the next time some instant biker tries to give me crap about my Yamaha, I can just show him the list.

 

Well the bearings that we send to them are made in: Germany, Korea, Taiwan, India, Slovakia, and a few I believe from France and Japan.

Well the bearings that we send to them are made in: Germany, Korea, Taiwan, India, Slovakia, and a few I believe from France and Japan.

 

Classic case where "Made In USA" and "assembled in usa" are thought to be the same.