Every morning that I go out to start the brat, I pump it like two times just to kick the choke on. Here's the problem, evry time I do this and i get heat in the motor it won't idle. Does anyone elses do this, it's making me mad. go to stop at the stop sign, car stalls. After about Ten miles or so it idles just fine. Let me know if you know what this is or if you've had it happen.

 

 

Jeff

Your choke is not adjusted properly - there's three screws on the choke retainer ring that you can loosen, and turn the choke till it's set so it will idle with the choke not fully pulled off (hasn't heated up yet). You'll just have to play with it. Sometimes they need asjustment seasonally - depending on how severe the changes in weather are in your area.

 

GD

I had the same problem with my Brat starting the end of last winter. Started running fine when the weather turned warm so I didn't worry about it till now. I fixed mine by adjusting the idle and mixture adjustments back to spec. Try zero your settings out and set your mixture screw to two turns out. Set the idle screw like 1.25 turns out and you should sound something like a tractor idling. Adjust your idle with the mixture screw by turning it out more until it idles smooth, I believe this was around 1.5 to 1.75 more turns out for my Brat and may not be the same for you. The idle speed screw I think that I barely changed, maybe .25 turns out more. I would make sure the mixture and idle screws are right before I messed with the choke. Hope that helps, Glenn Taylor. P.S. Did it want to run on sometimes after being cut off and get worser in cold weather?

Our webers are notoriously bad in cold weather. None, even with proper choke and mixture settings like to idle properly when cold. Mine takes about a minute of driving down the road before it stops stalling; that's about as good as it gets.

well that makes me feel a little better that i'm not the only one who has had this happen. Thanks for your guys info. I'm going to be doing a little tweeking with it on new years day.

 

 

 

Jeff

yep same problem here adjusted one way a little no choke at all the otherway to much choke, another problem is the choke engaging in bad winter weather by moisture (snow or rain)that comes through the grille and will actualy collect and freeze around the front of the carb (remember they put the choke coil on the front ) i fixed mine by making a shield to protect the front of the carb so nothing would freeze on the carb, i would of modified a stock shield but there usualy missing......i do have one on ebay though, you would have to put 2 tabs on it to mount to the intake with a weber though......

On my Hatchback I have the plastic shield attached on the outboard side with a wire tie and the inboard mount is held in place by my throttle return spring.

 

Any chance there's slop in the choke pivot bushings allowing air to leak past when the choke is on? I've also had cold starting grumpyness caused by a minor vacuume leak and also a coil suffering from old age. When it was the coil, it ran like crap for ten minutes or so then smoothed out, apparently when the coil itself warmed up.

Huh - wonder what I did right? Mine starts right up and idles fine in cold weather - I pump it twice, start, hold it at about 1500 RPM's for 10 seconds, and it will never die after that.....

 

I think it's all in the choke adjustment and the idle mixture....

 

You guys running used ones or rebuilt ones? Mine was brand new - so maybe that accounts for it?

 

BTW - we have SOOOOO much snow here - haven't seen this much for 10 years probably!

 

GD

I bought my webber 3 1/2 years ago new and since my last retuning three weeks ago I have not had a stalling issue since with temps. into the upper 20 degree mark. I will say that this like the 4th time I have readjusted it.

hey all,

 

curoius if you guys are running the electric or water chokes.....?

 

just rebuilt one and converted it to electric.....better cold starts?

 

shanonsf

82 GLW

This might sound stupid but how would you check to see if it was leaking around the bushings. My carb came off an old datsun and todd from up north (mt.Vernon) put 1/2 a rebuild kit in it so that could be the problem. The last couple of days I have started it with the choke on, i had no problems. so it seemes to be some what temperamental. thanks for the idea there.

 

 

Jeff

Actually I shouldn't have said bushings since a normal stock carb doesn't have pivot bushings. The choke and throttle plates normally pivot on the aluminum casting itself but as they wear with age, slop develops between the shaft and the holes in the casting. If you grab the choke or throttle plates you can tell how much slop there is. When the slop gets too bad and the hole is all egg shaped, shops will line ream the holes and install bushings into the oversized holes.

A couple years ago I bought a lot of 8 carbs on ebay two of them had major slop in throttle pivots. This condition makes it virtually impossible to tune the carb. They could have been fixed with bushings but too much hassle for me so I canibalized them for parts instead.

Jeff, is it a manual choke?