Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Switching to Synthetic at 31.5 Km.


Recommended Posts

Well I finally took the plunge.

At 31.5 Km I went mobil 5-30 in the impreza.

 

On a related note I found out that Jiffy lube will Lie to you about your service intervals.

 

They suggested that I needed to have a complete differential and transmission fluid exchange at 24 Km.

 

I new it was 72 Km but called subaru. yep 72Km for the Auto and 48Km for the manual.

 

The dealer was at least 10% cheaper.

 

Hopes and dreams for this oil, who knows?

Not sure about the synthetic coated pistons, then again it's what my Subie dealer uses.

Really have had positive experiences in the past with synthetic oils.

I guess my my jumping point was when I saw just how quickly the subaru broke down plain old oil last winter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They suggested that I needed to have a complete differential and transmission fluid exchange at 24 Km.

 

I new it was 72 Km but called subaru. yep 72Km for the Auto and 48Km for the manual.

are you sure you asked for the "severe" service recommendation? Jiffy lube uses that instead of the "normal" service.

"Normal" service intervals are carefully spaced just short enough to make the components last 'till the end of the warranty (i.e. 100k mile transmissions fluid change recommendced on some new cars...yeah right), where the "severe" recommendation is really closer to what the car needs to last forever (severe service recommends fluid changes at closer to 40k or 50k for those same cars).

~Erik~

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<<Not sure about the synthetic coated pistons, then again it's what my Subie dealer uses.>>

 

what are you talking about?:confused:

The black part on the piston below the rings is a synthetic coating.

Not sure what year subaru started doing it, but my o6 has it.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570

Piston Coatings

 

Dry film lubricants, also known as solid film lubricants, provide a lubricating film that reduces friction, inhibits galling and seizing, reduces piston scuffing, extends cylinder bore life, and in some instances can aid in dispersing heat. One of the obvious reasons for using a lubricating coating is to reduce friction, which improves wear, extends part life, and frees up power normally lost due to friction. A second major benefit is a reduction in part temperature. As well, no machining is 100% perfect, so the coating will wear and make up for very slight differences decreasing blow by.

 

Most dry film lubricants are Molybdenum Disulfide based. Why not Teflon? PTFE, also known as Teflon, is listed as having the lowest coefficient of friction (COE). However, under high speed and load, the COE of PTFE degrades while that of MOS2 (Molybdenum Disulfide) improves, until it is significantly better than PTFE. Moly also attracts oil, keeping an adequate film on the part unlike PTFE, which sheds oil.

 

Dry film lubricants are primarily applied to piston skirts.

post-21857-136027628418_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you sure you asked for the "severe" service recommendation? Jiffy lube uses that instead of the "normal" service.

"Normal" service intervals are carefully spaced just short enough to make the components last 'till the end of the warranty (i.e. 100k mile transmissions fluid change recommendced on some new cars...yeah right), where the "severe" recommendation is really closer to what the car needs to last forever (severe service recommends fluid changes at closer to 40k or 50k for those same cars).

~Erik~

Just a pile of BS if they had said 48Km I might have said great that's proactive thinking.

24Km is pure bare faced lying.

Check your facts!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just a pile of BS if they had said 48Km I might have said great that's proactive thinking.

24Km is pure bare faced lying.

Check your facts!

 

If you meant 'kilometres', that's too soon to change your oil:banana:

 

If you mean '1000 x miles', that's another story....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

are you sure you asked for the "severe" service recommendation? Jiffy lube uses that instead of the "normal" service.

"Normal" service intervals are carefully spaced just short enough to make the components last 'till the end of the warranty (i.e. 100k mile transmissions fluid change recommendced on some new cars...yeah right), where the "severe" recommendation is really closer to what the car needs to last forever (severe service recommends fluid changes at closer to 40k or 50k for those same cars).

~Erik~

 

Jiffy Lube and shops like them are after one thing.....money. The more often their marketing can get you to change your oil, the more MONEY they make. Marketing has been used to convince people that they need monster gas guzzling trucks and SUV's, 500hp cars, huge mc mansions, $5-$10K granite countertops, industrial appliances in single family homes and many other unnecessary, unsustainable and wasteful practices that have led us into our current energy crisis.

 

If you routinely tow, drive only short distances, idle frequently, drive in extremely dusty conditions then you should run oil analysis to determine how often your driving style dictates that you change your oil. This will also let you know if you have a mechanical problem such as water or fuel contamination in your oil or some other hidden mechanical issue that will lead to premature engine failure or accelerated wear.

 

Follow the owners manual recommendations. Better yet, have your oil analyzed and only change the oil when analysis indicates that it's necessary. I'll have to find the link, but one test group got close to 14,000 miles on Mobil 1 by running oil analysis in a Camaro.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jiffy Lube and shops like them are after one thing.....money. The more often their marketing can get you to change your oil, the more MONEY they make. Marketing has been used to convince people that they need monster gas guzzling trucks and SUV's, 500hp cars, huge mc mansions, $5-$10K granite countertops, industrial appliances in single family homes and many other unnecessary, unsustainable and wasteful practices that have led us into our current energy crisis.

 

Very well stated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jiffy Lube and shops like them are after one thing.....money. The more often their marketing can get you to change your oil, the more MONEY they make. Marketing has been used to convince people that they need monster gas guzzling trucks and SUV's, 500hp cars, huge mc mansions, $5-$10K granite countertops, industrial appliances in single family homes and many other unnecessary, unsustainable and wasteful practices that have led us into our current energy crisis.

 

If you routinely tow, drive only short distances, idle frequently, drive in extremely dusty conditions then you should run oil analysis to determine how often your driving style dictates that you change your oil. This will also let you know if you have a mechanical problem such as water or fuel contamination in your oil or some other hidden mechanical issue that will lead to premature engine failure or accelerated wear.

 

Follow the owners manual recommendations. Better yet, have your oil analyzed and only change the oil when analysis indicates that it's necessary. I'll have to find the link, but one test group got close to 14,000 miles on Mobil 1 by running oil analysis in a Camaro.

Exactly! a Filter change and a top up could safely double your oil change interval with this grade of oil and there is even better oil, but regrettably factory says to do it at 6000 KM.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought I might do an update now I had time to put 1000KM.

On it with the new oil.

 

I haven't yet done a serious mpg or litre per 100 KM test. but I am immediately struck by the almost whisper like smoothness I am experiencing.

Tire noise is indistinguishable from that of the engine.

 

Nothing short of a minor transformation.

 

Having looked around the internet it is reasonable to expect at least a 4% improvement in efficiency.

 

Anybody use 0W-30 ?

Mobil seems to be claiming that you could be using it instead of 5w-30 for an additional 2%.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx

Any thoughts on this?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using full synthetic motor oil in my Sube since the 3k mile mark. Castrol or Valvoline. Changing it and the filter every 5k miles.

A while back I put Red Line 75w-90NS gear oil in the gear box and was amazed at the improvement in gear shifting. So about 2500 miles ago I decided to go for Red Line motor oil. It's expensive, but I found a source for it at about $8.20 per bottle by the case. And no tax or shipping charge.

Valvoline or Castrol synthetic sells for at least $6.50 a bottle; so it's over $7.00 with tax locally. For just about $1.20 more per bottle I got Red Line, definitely superior to most of the others..their 5w-40, a viscosity that I prefer in my Sube year round.

Since putting in the Red Line, I've found my Sube's engine to be noticeably smoother running; it even sounds smoother.

I'll change the filter at the 5k mile mark and top up the Red Line, then change both the oil and filter at 10k miles.

I'm so pleased with Red Line oils....both for my Subie's gear box and engine.

 

Anybody use 0W-30 ?

Mobil seems to be claiming that you could be using it instead of 5w-30 for an additional 2%.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...l_1_0W-30.aspx

Any thoughts on this?

 

Well, I'd be a bit concerned with Mobil 1 0w-30 in hot summer temps. I may be wrong, but 0w-30's film strength might be compromised in, say, 90-100˚+ F driving, especially at higher speeds, even though it is a high quality synthetic.

I'd research this further, though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been using full synthetic motor oil in my Sube since the 3k mile mark. Castrol or Valvoline. Changing it and the filter every 5k miles.

A while back I put Red Line 75w-90NS gear oil in the gear box and was amazed at the improvement in gear shifting. So about 2500 miles ago I decided to go for Red Line motor oil.

Since putting in the Red Line, I've found my Sube's engine to be noticeably smoother running; it even sounds smoother.

Well, I'd be a bit concerned with Mobil 1 0w-30 in hot summer temps. I may be wrong, but 0w-30's film strength might be compromised in, say, 90-100˚+ F driving, especially at higher speeds, even though it is a high quality synthetic.

I'd research this further, though.

 

Will definitely anti up for synthetic on the front and rear difs, when the time comes. Would love to know, I imagine the auto-trans fluid is already at least part synthetic as stock. What synth works better in a stock auto?

I would bet that with a thermostatic regulated oil cooler system you could make all the difference in extreme service rating and let you use 0-30. Especially if you broke the engine in properly and with that goal from the beginning.

 

Then again if price were no object we would all turbo the hell out of it and then run 15/50 in a heat sealed engine.

:grin:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...