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Recommendations for storing a Subaru in a moist climate?

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I have a 2000 Outback which I will be storing for 9 months while overseas- I live in Portland, Oregon and wonder if there are any other recommendations for preparing the car so that it doesn't rot while I'm away. It will be stored outside. Here's what I've been told so far:

 

1- change the oil right before storage

2- Make sure the coolant is sufficient for winter

3- disconnect the battery

4- clean out the car well, try a bar of soap inside to discourage mice

as well as rat poison under the hood

5- cover the car with a tarp or car cover

6- cover the tires which will be in the sun

7- put some sort of stabilizer in the gas tank (recommendations on brand?)

 

Anything else? The car will be in my driveway so my tenant will be able to keep an eye on it but I wasn't planning on having it driven.

 

Is there anything else I need to do to prevent condensation or other problems? Is not driving the car for 9 months going to be harmful to the seals or any other part of the car?

 

thanks so much!

you can put a stack of cardboard in the interior to soak up humidity to keep it from smelling funky in there.

[...]5- cover the car with a tarp or car cover[...]

The car will be in my driveway so my tenant will be able to keep an eye on it but I wasn't planning on having it driven.[...]

Can your tenant be trusted to hose the car off periodically if it gets tree sap, bird droppings, etc., on it? Unless the cover can "breathe", you may be better off without one -- nine months of trapped moisture can cause more damage than exposure to the elements for that time. Also, the dark environment from being covered attracts many rodents, and the deterents you've mentioned may not be sufficient.

I'd get the interior Very, Very, dry before leaving. Mold is the #1 thing that tends to happen to cars that sit around here.

If possible, I would get someone to start the car occasionally (say once/month?).

And even better, to move it under power a few feet forwards and back (to re-lubricate all gears and bearings).

If possible, I would get someone to start the car occasionally (say once/month?).

And even better, to move it under power a few feet forwards and back (to re-lubricate all gears and bearings).

 

I don't agree. Either leave it parked or drive it long enough to get it up to operating temp. Short runs introduce water into the crankcase. Full temp runs are needed to dissapate the moisture.

 

Do you have a trusted to friend who can drive it once every in a while?

[...]Either leave it parked or drive it long enough to get it up to operating temp.[...]
Exactly.

Definatley try and have it driven until warm. In addition ot lubrication, etc the rotors and tires will appreciate it. If that can't happen puch it a few feet to help the rotors/tires.

 

Lots of Stabil since the alcohol gas is crap.

 

Dave

FWIW; I have a neighbor (don't know him very well) that leaves for long stretches at a time; up to a year once. He drives his car onto a clean, heavy-duty tarp, then bungies (or ties it, I'm not quite sure) the tarp up and around the sides, then uses a car cover to cover the top and overlap the tarp. This seals it like a present.

I guess the idea is to prevent moisture from coming up from the bottom where it will just be trapped by the car cover.

 

Before I sold my GMC Yukon because I couldn't afford gas, I had it parked in the driveway for months at a time, I used that stuff called Dri-Z-Air (or something like that). Comes in a little plastic container which is a bowl on the bottom and a basket on top, you can get it anywhere. The granules go in the basket and it absorbs moisture from the car collecting it in the bowl. It would collect about 1/2" of water a month in really damp seasons; so I'd say it works pretty good!

Comes in a little plastic container which is a bowl on the bottom and a basket on top, you can get it anywhere. The granules go in the basket and it absorbs moisture from the car collecting it in the bowl. It would collect about 1/2" of water a month in really damp seasons; so I'd say it works pretty good!

 

There are many makers of this similar style of stuff. I have used it on alot of my classic cars that I don't have shop space for, and I have been pretty happy with the results. They are cheap, and can be found pretty much anywhere.

 

If the car is going to be parked outside, especially during winter moths; avoid using any kind of car cover. I have found these to do nothing but damage a car in our climate. The cover/tarp acts as a globe, and traps condensation inside. The car is FAR better off parked in an opening with exposure to what little sun we get during the winter. You may want to prepare the cars paint job with a good wax job. By this, I don't mean the easiest, quickest crap they sell at Schucks. I mean an actual quality, elbow grease wax job. This will cause our constant rain to bead and roll off more quickly. It will also protect the paint from anything that may grow on it while you are gone, and will make it far easier for you to clean the exterior upon your return.

How about spraying the underside and brakes with WD40 or some other oil so they don't get rusty and creaky. Just remember that the brakes are oily the first time you take it out of storage;)

Perhaps park it on blocks to keep the tires off the ground, and help detour potential car jackers

+1 or put crappy wheelset on-cause after 9 months without moving the tires will have flat spots. but I would recommend it be driven, mmm reminds me of:

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MxPoxxt7n0

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