GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Wasn't that hard was it? You have a better understanding now don't you? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Wasn't that hard was it? You have a better understanding now don't you? GD The motor itself is actually..we todd ed lee easy..Its just getting to the motor itself...my biggest fear is going to be getting it back inside...and actually running.. I did the rear main before wrapping it up for the day...That ...is a 5 minutes job ..good gravy it was the easiest thing ever to replace.. I am thankful that this is a rust free car..cause I think I would have been doing alot more cussin if it wasnt. I am also thankful for ALL the help from this board so far ...and poor Turbone..I bet he is wishing he never gave me his phone number. Still a long way to go though.. I am still toying with the idea of getting rid of the AC..I wont ever use it..plus it will free up some space under the hood ( I believe I would need an Alt bracket from one without AC right??) I am also going to upgrade to the XT6 Alt I have. I am trying my best to do as much of this as possible without any help ( hands on) to prove that I can do it...And I know there are some who are just waiting for me to fail..well its not going to happen. I WILL have the nicest EA81 coupe in the North East..and it will be built by me ...not bought. And I refuse to let another one get trashed. ( I also cant wait to say...Not to bad for a girl huh? ) And Maybe ..it will be the incentive needed to get some others to pick up some tools and get dirty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Connie, I meant to mention. While the engine is out you might want to get rid of those ASV valves. The weber doesnt use them and they are crappy design. My plan has always been to eventually get under mine and undo the pipe from the exhaust manifold and make a plug of some sort (ive heard talk of fitting a dime in down there or a quarter as well and tightening it back up..this is after cutting the pipe out of the fitting). Engine looks very purty though. Glad your keeping it. I dont have space for another car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I am still toying with the idea of getting rid of the AC..I wont ever use it..plus it will free up some space under the hood ( I believe I would need an Alt bracket from one without AC right??) I am also going to upgrade to the XT6 Alt I have. Yes - you need the brackets from a non-AC EA81 - both the inner and outer brackets - don't forget the round spacer under the inner bracket. Then you have to change the pulley over and you will have to reposistion the output terminal and add some washers to the inner pivot area to make up for the difference in thickness on the XT6 alt. It's pretty easy stuff though. I WILL have the nicest EA81 coupe in the North East..and it will be built by me ...not bought. And I refuse to let another one get trashed. No doubt about it. There's nothing quite like knowing you did it yourself. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 GD im running a bracket from a non-AC car but I missmatched and it was fine..in other words my outer bracket is a non-AC bracket and my inner one is. My AC didnt work and i wanted to free some space up as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 The weber doesnt use them and they are crappy design. Technically, having a Weber (or not) has nothing to do with the ASV's. They operate from the exhaust pulse alone. The hoses to the valves only need fresh air from the filter or their own small filters (reccomended) for them to work. The valves often break though - especially at high mileage. So it's often best to either remove them or to disable them using a quarter between the pipe and the valve. This way they can't fail and you can leave them in place using the quarter trick in case you have to go through emissions with the car. Personally I like them gone, but they can work with the Weber. The catalyst is more effecient when it has fresh oxygen to work with. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Personally I like them gone, but they can work with the Weber. The catalyst is more effecient when it has fresh oxygen to work with. GD Wouldnt one have to use the stock Air box modified for the weber in order for them to work though. As for the catalitic converters..I ditched them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 GD im running a bracket from a non-AC car but I missmatched and it was fine..in other words my outer bracket is a non-AC bracket and my inner one is. My AC didnt work and i wanted to free some space up as well. That works on some of them probably.... some of the AC brackets are different than other's. Dealer vs. factory vs. year. I know that wouldn't have worked on my 84 wagon. The AC bracket was an unholy cast iron thing that weighed at least 10 pounds. Good riddance. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Wouldnt one have to use the stock Air box modified for the weber in order for them to work though. As for the catalitic converters..I ditched them. Nope - just use some of those mineature cone filters people stick on their V8 valve covers. They just need fresh filtered air to keep stuff out of the reed machanism. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Can someone post what you are talkig about with those valves??? ( Pics or something) .. I wanted to get rid of them but thought they had something to do with the EGR system. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Hey Connie, If your A/C idle-up acuator works I'll take it! I'd even buy the whole system as backup for mine of you want... I can even give you the lighter A/C bracket from my other Brat.. Don't know if it will fit the XT6 alt though... Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Can someone post what you are talkig about with those valves??? ( Pics or something) .. I wanted to get rid of them but thought they had something to do with the EGR system. Thanks Just follow the pipe that comes off the exhaust spacers under the heads. That goes to the reed valve (Air Suction Valve or ASV). From the valve you have a rubber peice that connects to a plastic canistor - those are just mufflers or "silencers" to dampen the noise of the open exhaust when the reeds suck air. From there you generally go to the air cleaner - or in your case you can use a couple of those little cone filters I mentioned. Some ASV's are vacuum operated via a thermo-vacuum valve or ecu controlled vacuum valve. If you have that type (they have a vacuum nipple on top and are bigger) then you should replace them with the non-vacuum (passive) style ASV's that came on non-feedback models. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Where actually do you block them off?...This car wont have to go through emissions ever again ..so they can go ( plus they keep getting in the way of my fine cleaning wheels;)).And it isnt going to be seeing many miles ..just to shows and once in awhile ..an out and about. I am hopeing to have it ready for 1 BIG trip in the next year or 2...want to take it home to show it off..back to Seattle..but under its own power. samneric..let me finish pulling all that off and I will let you know.. Yes my AC idle-up works..( here is my dumb question...where is it to pull it:-p?..maybe I should open my FSM more huh?) I agree GD on the AC bracket...that thing is just a beasty heavy piece..definately going in my pile of scrap metal Steve( hatchsub) can you do me a favor? Can you send me some detailed pics of you set up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daeron Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 :eek: :eek: OMGshinyzz!!! You should get a can of black spray paint and hit that crankshaft pulley.. at least the front face of it. Then the whole shebang looks like new! Does this car have a splash guard on the bottom side of the engine bay? Your photobucket better get crowded with a TON of pictures when you get the motor back into the car. Blood, Sweat, and Tears, thats how its done, yes ma'am! The most awesomest chick in all of New England I tell ya.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Where actually do you block them off?... Well there's a couple ways. The best involve your little welder . Easiest way: The pipe from the head spacer plate to the valve is steel. Cut it off - leaving about 2" at the ferule to the plate. Smash the cut end flat and run a bead across the seam. Instant cap. Harder but cleaner way: Remove the pipe and again cut near the ferule - but remove the ferule from the pipe and stick a washer or something else that just barely fits down inside the ferule. Weld it up solid. When you do it this way you need to leave the last 1/4" of the pipe inside the ferule - the flared part that actually seals into the plate or it will leak around the threads. This is the method I personally use. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 i'm EA81 illiterate but can you remove the pipe and cut a plate to bolt over the opening? that's what i do for EJ EGR valve openings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audio_file Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 i used quarters, how mickey mouse is that?! no leaks so far, but . . . i wish i had a welder good job connie! chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 i'm EA81 illiterate but can you remove the pipe and cut a plate to bolt over the opening? that's what i do for EJ EGR valve openings. No - it's a threaded, flared pipe fitting. There's nothing to bolt to. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 samneric..let me finish pulling all that off and I will let you know.. Yes my AC idle-up works..( here is my dumb question...where is it to pull it:-p?..maybe I should open my FSM more huh?) Unforch the FSM isn't much help for A/C photos. They have a diagram of the vacuum system and the wiring circuit but no photos of the physical equipment because all A/C systems were installed at the dealers and can be of two or three types. Anyways, Here is a pic of it on (It pulls back a lever that is presently on another carb). Here is a pic of it off: It connects via a vacuum line to a vacuum switch near the bank of relays in front of the passenger side strut tower. Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky92 Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 No problem..I can get that pulled tomorrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 It connects via a vacuum line to a vacuum switch near the bank of relays in front of the passenger side strut tower. The EA82 version is virtually identical. It's a pretty simple thing - I even adapted the one on my '86 sedan to work with the Weber I had on it. I welded a bolt to the end of the "hook" and added some washers, etc to adjust it accurately to the Weber's linkage. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 No problem..I can get that pulled tomorrow Cheerz! Definately clean that EGR by soaking the inside passages with carb cleaner and scrape out the gunk with a screw driver. My cars "stall on idle" problem cleared up after taking care of mine today.... GD... Can you "manufacture" one for me?!? ! I don't have a welder and am willing to pay I figured the EA82's were SPFI and had the electronic air-bypass solenoid???? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Can you "manufacture" one for me?!? ! I don't have a welder and am willing to pay I figured the EA82's were SPFI and had the electronic air-bypass solenoid???? 85 through 87 4WD's were carbed. 2WD's, late 87's, and everything after 87 was SPFI, MPFI, or Turbo. I could weld an extension to one for you, sure.... but I did it to an EA82 (that I don't own anymore), so I would need accurate dimensions of what you need exactly. PM me and we can discuss it. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samneric Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 85 through 87 4WD's were carbed. 2WD's, late 87's, and everything after 87 was SPFI, MPFI, or Turbo. I could weld an extension to one for you, sure.... but I did it to an EA82 (that I don't own anymore), so I would need accurate dimensions of what you need exactly. PM me and we can discuss it. GD Will measure up all the distances and tolerances and pm you... Can you buy these online new or do you need to use one from a JY? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McDave Posted July 10, 2008 Share Posted July 10, 2008 BUMP Shhhhhh... serious wrenching in progress (looking forward to the next set of photos). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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