Hi there,

 

I have been searching for answers to this and nobody (not even the dealer) knows what it is.

 

I have an 88 GL Wagon, 4x4 and it died. Found that there was no spark so I replaced the coil with one from a wrecker, it came with the bracket and a little 'resistor'. Well, it died again so I replaced the coil again with a new one this time and I seem to have no spark from the coil still (didn't replace the resistor). Does anyone know what the name of the little 'resistor' item is? The timing belt is good, rotor spins with the dist cap off, fuse is ok. Any help or suggestions would be apreciated. I am running out of options.

 

Dean

It is a condensor. Most likely that isn't you're problem. But you should be able to get it easily with the coil bracket.

 

I'll bet the Cam angle sensor in the disty is not sending the proper signal. Try opening the distributor and cleaning the slotted wheel. If that doesn't work, get a used disty and swap it out.

Thank you soooo much! I will definitely give it a shot. You are the first person out of many who has provided any direction whatsoever. Greatly apreciated!!!

 

Dean

Check out the similar threads at the bottom of this page.

Probably not your problem but the coil bracket has to well grounded. That "condensor" receives a small voltage from the ECU and ramps it up enough to fire the coil. May as well check the fusable links and look at the back of the ign switch.

Thanks again. You guys are great! I'll post my results as soon as I get back to the car!

 

Dean

Check fuse 11 too.

Check fuse 11 too.

Yeah, I checked the fuse (IGN, 3rd from the left, center row - 15a) it's good. The spark test I did was by pulling the wire that goes from the coil to the dist, and placed it about 2mm from a steel bolt...I should have gotten a blue spark from what I gather, but instead I got nothing. This is why I concluded that I'd need another 'condenser'. The fusable links looked ok too. I am far from a mechanic so you folks are my only source, I can't thank you enough!

 

Dean

Yeah, I checked the fuse (IGN, 3rd from the left, center row - 15a) it's good. The spark test I did was by pulling the wire that goes from the coil to the dist, and placed it about 2mm from a steel bolt...I should have gotten a blue spark from what I gather, but instead I got nothing.

 

 

You need to put a screwdriver or some other metal piece inside the wire boot. You need to actually get a metal to metal gap that is 2 mm, not just the rubber end of the wire.

Bad pickup coil in the distributor?

Bad pickup coil in the distributor?

 

88 GL =Fuel injected= Crank Angle Sensor type Distributor= No pickup coil in the disty.

 

The CAS is a possible suspect though. I think we need to establish that he has no spark first.

Can't just look at the fusible links and determine they are good to go. Remove them and give each a good tug. More then once I have seen them fall apart with a tug.

The item on the coil bracket is not a condenser, it's a transistorized ignitor and if it's bad you won't get any spark. They do fail, although not often.

 

The coil bracket has to be grounded. Make sure the grounds are clean. Check for codes - if the distributor CAS isn't working you'll get a code. The coil or the ignitor will not give a code.

 

GD

If you haven't checked for voltage on the plus and minus sides of the coil yet, with the key turned to RUN, then you need to do that. There must be voltage present on those connections for the ignition to work. If there isn't any voltage check fuse #5. If voltage is between 10 and 12 volts that is good. The next step would be to check the CAS circuit and ignitor.

Well, I was under the hood again last night and I cleaned up the coil bracket as best as I could and still nothing. I pulled apart and cleaned all of the fusable links too, they seem tight. I have to buy a multimeter/ohm meter (whatever you call it) and test the voltage, I'll get one this weekend. Also, about the screwdriver test for spark in the wire...I'll give that a go too. Once I establish spark from the coil, do I have to pull the entire dist out to get at the CAS or is that part inside the dist? I had the dist cap off last night and couldn't locate the CAS...but I am afraid to pull out the whole dist without a timing light. I will get this car running if it's the last thing I do and I'll owe it all to you folks!!

Well, I was under the hood again last night and I cleaned up the coil bracket as best as I could and still nothing. I pulled apart and cleaned all of the fusable links too, they seem tight. I have to buy a multimeter/ohm meter (whatever you call it) and test the voltage, I'll get one this weekend. Also, about the screwdriver test for spark in the wire...I'll give that a go too. Once I establish spark from the coil, do I have to pull the entire dist out to get at the CAS or is that part inside the dist? I had the dist cap off last night and couldn't locate the CAS...but I am afraid to pull out the whole dist without a timing light. I will get this car running if it's the last thing I do and I'll owe it all to you folks!!

 

 

You should be able to pull off the cap and rotor. Then pull of the gold colored plate under the rotor. That will expose the CAS. Get some Canned air or at least some MAF cleaner to spray it off.

 

But by all means, determine that wether or not you are getting voltage to the coil, and spark first.

If you haven't checked for voltage on the plus and minus sides of the coil yet, with the key turned to RUN, then you need to do that. There must be voltage present on those connections for the ignition to work. If there isn't any voltage check fuse #5. If voltage is between 10 and 12 volts that is good. The next step would be to check the CAS circuit and ignitor.

 

Just checked fuse # 5...it is labelled horn/emerg...it's blown. Put in another..it blew on contact...?I don't understand how the horn is supposed to be part of it all.

The spark test I did was by pulling the wire that goes from the coil to the dist, and placed it about 2mm from a steel bolt...I should have gotten a blue spark from what I gather, but instead I got nothing.

Dean

 

did you test the wire going from the cap/top of the coil to the the distributor cap (comes with your spark plug wires) or one of the small wires which are screwed to the coil?

 

thanks, Bill

did you test the wire going from the cap/top of the coil to the the distributor cap (comes with your spark plug wires) or one of the small wires which are screwed to the coil?

 

thanks, Bill

 

Hi Bill,

 

I tested the HT wire(I believe that's what it's called), the thick one on center/top of the coil that goes directly to the distributor. El-no-spark-o.

 

I had an odd post here that told me to check fuse #5...well it's a horn/hazard fuse and it was blown. I put another one in it's place and it exploded as the points made conact. If it has something to do with my issue then I'll be shocked...well hopefully not shocked but amazed.

 

I had an odd post here that told me to check fuse #5...well it's a horn/hazard fuse and it was blown. I put another one in it's place and it exploded as the points made conact. If it has something to do with my issue then I'll be shocked...well hopefully not shocked but amazed.

 

 

That is certainly you're issue. Fuse 5. It is labeled horn/hazard, but it also is the fuse that supplies the ECU with voltage when the key is turned on.

 

When you turn the Key to *on* with engine not running, you should see you're ECS light come on. You're is not, right?

 

You have a short in that circuit.

 

Did you install a stereo recently? The green wire that is the constant power/ memory backup in the dash is also on Fuse 5. If you've been in there lately, it's possible that the wire is touching a ground. It's happened before.

 

You could also inspect the condition of the ignition relay. It's brown, mounted on above the ECU under dash, bolted to the column. Test it with a multimeter for shorts.

That is certainly you're issue. Fuse 5. It is labeled horn/hazard, but it also is the fuse that supplies the ECU with voltage when the key is turned on.

 

When you turn the Key to *on* with engine not running, you should see you're ECS light come on. You're is not, right?

 

You have a short in that circuit.

 

Did you install a stereo recently? The green wire that is the constant power/ memory backup in the dash is also on Fuse 5. If you've been in there lately, it's possible that the wire is touching a ground. It's happened before.

 

You could also inspect the condition of the ignition relay. It's brown, mounted on above the ECU under dash, bolted to the column. Test it with a multimeter for shorts.

 

 

WOOOOO HOOOOOOOO! I was pulling out my hair looking for every electrical connection that I could get my hands on, looking for burnt stuff etc and I realized that the green wire from the stereo was touching metal. I taped it up, put in another fuse (didn't blow this time) and before I started it, I checked this thread. Ha...coincidence? I ran back ouside (I happen to have a few people over who heard me cheer) fired it up and drove the victory lap! That worked.

 

Thank you all so much for helping out. You guys are amazing.

 

Dean

WOOOOO HOOOOOOOO! I was pulling out my hair looking for every electrical connection that I could get my hands on, looking for burnt stuff etc and I realized that the green wire from the stereo was touching metal. I taped it up, put in another fuse (didn't blow this time) and before I started it, I checked this thread. Ha...coincidence? I ran back ouside (I happen to have a few people over who heard me cheer) fired it up and drove the victory lap! That worked.

 

Thank you all so much for helping out. You guys are amazing.

 

Dean

 

 

Sweet. Glad to help.

 

I think this excact problem has come up here at least 3 times.

I learned about the infamous fuse #5 some time ago while trying to help someone find this same problem and sending a lot of posts back and forth, testing various things. We finally discovered the trouble after a lot of hair pulling. It is an easily overlooked item but it is now first on my list of things to check when looking for this trouble.

 

The fuse supplies power to a lot of areas so you may be wise in investing in a service manual to help you in locating the trouble. One of the likely areas is the seatbelt warning. You could try disconnecting the ECU to see if that helps but I kind of doubt the trouble is there, but I may be wrong.

 

 

Edit: Well it looks like I am a little late here. I see now that you found the problem. Good deal.