sub_dont_touch Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Hi, I need to know pull out my fuel pump fuse while the engine is running. So then I can change my fuel filter. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 I just let the car sit for a while so it is cold engine. IT might spray a little so wear glasses but otherwise it should be pretty minimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Yes I usually just wrap a shop towel around the hose before removing it. It does spray a little but it's not like a gusher. Another way is if you can find the access port under the rear seat/cargo area and disconnect the connector there while running that works pretty well too. This is what the connector looks like on a '96 2.2l anyway.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted September 3, 2008 Share Posted September 3, 2008 There is no fuse, just a relay for the fuel pump. There is also a connector under the rear seat that you can disconnect to remove power from the fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub_dont_touch Posted April 29, 2009 Author Share Posted April 29, 2009 Very late reply, Where is the relay for the fuel pump? and how do I know if it needs changing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted April 29, 2009 Share Posted April 29, 2009 Left side of the car left of the steering column way up under the dash. Its on a bracket with the main relay that is brown and square and the fuel relay is silver with a green plug in. No power or ground going to the fuel pump is a start. The power wire is black with a red tracer and the larger wire coming out of the fuel pump. The ground is light green with a black tracer. You can add ground or power to the fuel pump manually to see what you are lacking to make the engine run and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub_dont_touch Posted May 26, 2009 Author Share Posted May 26, 2009 I live in New Zealand and our steering wheel is on the right side (sitting in the car) Would the relay be here or like you said on the left side of the car still? If anyone has a picture that would help a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Your equipment will be on the opposite side of a left hand drive car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted May 26, 2009 Share Posted May 26, 2009 Your equipment will be on the opposite side of a left hand drive car. For the most part this is correct but the harness is completely different part number and build and some things don't fit right on LHD vs RHD and such so they have to relocate them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 How many volts should there be at the fuel pump on the passenger side? I'm having an issue on a 96 Impreza parts car. Runs on either (other than the small fire). But I'd like to hear it run before pulling. I see the relay description and I'll check it - I do hear clicking from under there but it could be anything. This car's linkage is screwed and disconnected, I'm hotwireing the starter since there may be something other than the switch in the shifter that is stopping the ignition from starting it. I'm only one guy. I should have several fuel pumps from 95-97-99 Outbacks and some L's. But I'd like to work smart(yea - I know - it's a challange). Volts at fuel pump should be? I'm not an electrical wizard. I had a friend help for a few minutes. He said he got some voltage but at that point my jump box was about dead. I don't even know what he was jumping to get the reading - I was turning the key at that point. If there a way to test the relay? The fact that he got some voltage means it's likely the pump? This car's inspection was up in 2007 and it's wrecked in the side so I'm sure it's been setting. Tow Truck driver probably did in the shifter since the car had no key. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4x4_Welder Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 You should get full battery voltage for about three seconds with the key on, then it shuts off until you start cranking. If you have constant power, it's probably the fuel gauge line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 It's complicated because it won't crank with the key. But the ignition does appear to be on , lights, dinger, etc. I have the starter hot wired with an aligator clip to the battery. After I got it to backfire and caught the air filter on fire with either I started looking for fuel pressure. I cracked the gas cap and had some pressure (probably due to heat). Tightened the cap, cycled the key many times (atleast a dozen). Never heard the pump, removing gas cap had no pressure sound. Being one guy I'm trying diagnose this. Not to fix the car, but to just get it to run for a few minutes to know whether I want to pull the engine. I do have fuel pumps around if that's the answer. I don't have any relay's though without removing them from good running cars. I'm not a big electrical guy and trying to wire the pump direcftly sounds a little intimidating since you're literally at the fuel tank. I do have a jump box to use as juice. I'll go take a quick look. I was hoping to determine the fate of the engine today but I'll have to leave in an hour or so for a graduation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) This 96 doesn't have a relay atttached to the fuse block like the photo in this thread(or similar thread by some poster working on sema car). The silver and green one. The Plug on the passenger side fuel pump has these 5 wires. Bottom right Black (a little heavier gauge than the rest of the wires), middle green/black wire. Top of plug L to R. Blue, green/blue, blue/yellow. If someone knows of a better thread that I didn't turn up please point me to it. Edited June 4, 2009 by davebugs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 (edited) Just about everything on the car uses 12 volt DC power to run it. Including the fuel pump. So you should have 12 volts across the two wires to the pump when the pump should be on. When you turn turn the key from OFF to RUN the pump will turn on for a couple seconds so you should see voltage then. Looking at some service data for your vehicle shows that the power wire from the relay to the pump is blk/red and changes to blu/yel somewhere. The other wire to the pump ties to ground. If you don't have 12 volts getting to the pump check the relay (should be under the dash) and the connections to the pump for good connection. Also make sure the ground connection to the pump is good. Since someone has already seen a low voltage to the pump it appears there is a problem in the power feed to the pump. EDIT: If you have MPFI then the wire color from the relay may be brown and ties to blu/yel for the pump. If you have a blu/yel wire going to the pump then whatever that ties to should be coming from the relay. Edited June 4, 2009 by Cougar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 cougar, Funny - most of the threads I rea don this topic you provided the solution. I'm just a little bit dense. I can find the blu/yel wire. Set my multimeter on 20 volts, red probe on the blu/yel wire and ground the other one. Get someone to turn the key and see if I get 12 volts or close? "under the dash" is a busy area. I took the kick panel off so that I could look for a silver (with a green end) relay as in another post by the originator of this thread and there isn't one stuck into the fuse block. Where is this relay likely to be(fuse block, to the right of the steering column, that kinda stuff), what does it look like, etc? How do I test it after I find it? I gotta run (high school graduation) but I hope to finish this tonight so please keep the suggestions up. What wires (other than the blu/yel) would I need to use to try and run the pump with jumpers with the ground?(I'm guessing the big black one - but what do I know?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 My info states the relay is behind the left side of the dash. Look for a small round or cube device, about 1 inch wide, fitted into a socket. That is what relays look like. You will notice a number of them under the dash. You should be able to swap the relay to check it out once you find it and another that wil fit into the socket. They are pretty standard. Your procedure to measure the voltage on the wire is correct; set the meter to read DC volts. Solid black wires are usually ground wires but not all the time. I would suspect it is ground in this case. You can prove that by measuring the resistance on the wire to ground. Never measure resistances with power ON. The black wire may be the return side for the pump and ground someplace else inside the car. By applying 12 volts to the blu/yel wire the pump should turn on. Make sure that the return side of the pump wiring is making a ground connection if you do that so the circuit is complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 o.k. lets pretend that I'm a 6 year old - cause that's about my electrical abilities. I know what a lot of relays look like. I'm wondering how to tell which one is for the fuel pump. How do I measure to make sure the black is the ground. What setting on the multimeter? I was debating about trying to hit the pins on the pump with a hot and ground to try and get it going. Now I'm thinking of cutting the tape off the wires, stripping atleast the blu/yel and black (at different distances from the plug) and using alligator clips to the jump box and see if the pump runs. Good approach? Another might be to use the pointy test light to "complete" the hot part of the circuit. Will this work - place the alligator clip of the test light on the stripped wire on the blu/yel, touch the point onto the hot of the jump box(that I've already stuck the ground to the car somewhere). If the circuit is complete the test light should light up and the pump run. Or better approaches? I think I should check at the pump before trying to figure out which relay. The car is on a trailer so it's a bit of a pain to get up under the dash well - that's why I removed the kick panel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 If the black wire is a ground wire then you should see no voltage on that wire comparing it to ground reference (the black meter probe tied to a good ground point). I first recommend you check for voltage on the blu/yel wire. If you don't have power there when the key is first turned on then you need to check the relay. Whatever color wire that is tied to the blu/yel wire at the connector is the color that should tie back to the relay so look for that wire color. Also remember that it only turns on for a few seconds. Your idea of using the test light will not work to drive the pump because the test light bulb will then be in series with the power to the the pump motor. That will turn on the light but very little voltage will get to the motor because of the high resistance of the light bulb compared to the low resistance of the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 I truely appreciate the pointers. I know enough basics to fix wireing for a bulb but that's about it. Playing with wires so close to the fuel tank with my level of knowledge and comfort isn't my idea of a good time. Only good news is that the car is on a trailer outside. I'm not much of a hockey fan but the game is in town tonight and it's turning out to be an excellent game. Just like some of the football playoffs and superbowl this year. Tomorrow I test! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 (edited) i need to steal this thread for a moment or so. i have a 92 legacy. with hte mpfi. my fuel pump works when out of the tank. but doesnt seem to get power with the key on. i am guessing from what i read that the pump only gets power when the key is in the start position? does my car have that relay also? every book ihave seen doesn't mention the relay. i did see the thread about the fuel pump resistor inside the ecu. is that what i have? my wife is driving my truck. and i need it. so i have to get this car fixed. thanks for my thread stealing. Edited June 5, 2009 by Fordman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 i need to steal this thread for a moment or so. i have a 92 legacy. with hte mpfi. my fuel pump works when out of the tank. but doesnt seem to get power with the key on. i am guessing from what i read that the pump only gets power when the key is in the start position? does my car have that relay also? every book ihave seen doesn't mention the relay. i did see the thread about the fuel pump resistor inside the ecu. is that what i have? my wife is driving my truck. and i need it. so i have to get this car fixed. thanks for my thread stealing. The pump will only turn on for a few seconds when the key is turned to the RUN position and the engine isn't running. It is a safety feature. It will be on full time in the start position and when the engine is running. Your vehicle does have a relay. The resistor you refer to is for the level sensor in the tank possibly. There is no resistor for the pump motor. Your system may control the pump by making the ground connection inside the ECU. If you have voltage getting to the pump and it dosen't run the the ECU may be bad. I have fixed them for that problem in the past. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 it looks like i have to take the seat back out. and retest to see if its getting power when it is put in the start position then. i will post back when i cant figure it out again. thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 5, 2009 Share Posted June 5, 2009 Pump must be dead. I ran hot wire to yel/blu, ground to large black wire and got nothing. These were directly to my jump box. I have several here from Lecagy's. When I get this one out I'll see if I have a match Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Installed another pump from a 97 Legacy known good. (I had 2 different styles from 97's - perhaps some L's and some Outbacks?) I can hear and feel it run when key is cycled, added a couple gallons of gas (there was some in there when I changed pumps). But still really nothing up coming into the filter. I'll try again tomorrow. My patience is about up. Too much work just to hear an engine run. I almost might as well just yank it. No worse odds than a JY engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 i messed with mine tonight. i have power to the tankplug . at first turn of the swithc and it has power in pulses when the switch is turned to start position. i had the pump out yesterday and it ran with direct power to it. the wire plug that goes from the pump to the tank plate. has one slightly black melted spot on the end where it plugs into the tank plate. i think this might be getting intermittet contact and not letting the pump work correctly. i think but i am unsure. the only other thing i can think is that the mpfi system is suppose to have 61-71 psi. i can not buy a aftermarket replacement pump from the parts store that has the wire that comes with it. i am hoping the dealer 30 miles away has that wire or something. if not i did see some complete units on ebay last night. does this sound correct in thinking that the pump wire is not completeing the connection all of the time. or is the pump just not pumping enough pressure to get it to the front? either way i think i will end up with a new pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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