Cougar Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 Pump must be dead. I ran hot wire to yel/blu, ground to large black wire and got nothing. These were directly to my jump box. I have several here from Lecagy's. When I get this one out I'll see if I have a match If you know for sure the black wire is the return wire going to the pump then it would appear that the pump circuit is open. But if you don't know for sure then that should be checked by doing a continuity test. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 i messed with mine tonight. i have power to the tankplug . at first turn of the swithc and it has power in pulses when the switch is turned to start position. i had the pump out yesterday and it ran with direct power to it. the wire plug that goes from the pump to the tank plate. has one slightly black melted spot on the end where it plugs into the tank plate. i think this might be getting intermittet contact and not letting the pump work correctly. i think but i am unsure. the only other thing i can think is that the mpfi system is suppose to have 61-71 psi. i can not buy a aftermarket replacement pump from the parts store that has the wire that comes with it. i am hoping the dealer 30 miles away has that wire or something. if not i did see some complete units on ebay last night. does this sound correct in thinking that the pump wire is not completeing the connection all of the time. or is the pump just not pumping enough pressure to get it to the front? either way i think i will end up with a new pump. A bad connection will cause the connection to heat up and make the black mark as you saw. This is because of the voltage drop across the resistance in the connection that shouldn't be there. Try cleaning the contacts and measure the voltage across the connection while the pump is on. You should see very little voltage across the connection if things are ok. No more the .1 volt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted June 6, 2009 Share Posted June 6, 2009 I installed a similar pump. Makes noise(like it's running) every key cycle. Added 2 gal of gas (although there was nasty gas in there up to about the top of that baffle plate under the pump in the tank. Seems like perhaps I'm getting a litte coming into the filter now. I gotta wait for stuff to evaporate. I may swap out the filter to a known good used one since I have several on the shelf. WhenI sell a car typically I put a new fuel filter (and air, oil,coolant,etc.) in them. I was actually thinking of "primeing the pump". Bought some hose this morning. Funny thing is that I could have had this engine pulled quicker than trying to get it to run. But if I get it running I may not want to pull it. Still it's no worse odds than JY engine. But I'd really, really like to hear it and do a compression check. Yea - I know I could do a compression check but other than running some on either it hasn't been run in atleast 2 years. Hardly seems like the oil would be helping seal the rings properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted June 8, 2009 Share Posted June 8, 2009 will the fuel pump and wires from the fuel pump to the tank plate from a 92 loyale wagon fit my 93 legacy? it looks like the tank plates are different.but i dont need that part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 I would say probably not. The Legacy was a completely different car than the Loyale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fordman Posted June 9, 2009 Share Posted June 9, 2009 yea its not an in tank pump from what i could tell anyway. it only had one cover in the back to take off andthat was only the fuel sender. so it wont work. thanks for repling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sub_dont_touch Posted July 16, 2009 Author Share Posted July 16, 2009 (edited) Left side of the car left of the steering column way up under the dash. Its on a bracket with the main relay that is brown and square and the fuel relay is silver with a green plug in. No power or ground going to the fuel pump is a start. The power wire is black with a red tracer and the larger wire coming out of the fuel pump. The ground is light green with a black tracer. You can add ground or power to the fuel pump manually to see what you are lacking to make the engine run and go from there. Was a mission to get to. Finally got it off. Is there any way to test it? I have called up a lot of places like dismantlers, auto electricans and no one seems to have a relay. Edited July 17, 2009 by sub_dont_touch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spuhwart Posted January 31, 2014 Share Posted January 31, 2014 Check the slow blow fuse #2 under the hood. I have a 97 outback impreza it worked for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westend Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) Old thread here but I thought I'd try to fill in some blanks about fuel pump operation as I have recently gone through a lot of steps. Vehicle: '95 Impreza base sedan w/1.8l automatic Symptoms: Car has been starting hard and finally failed to run. I was able to start and run it for a few seconds. Pulled the fuel line at the fuel filter and observed that a small amount of fuel would flow (a few ml's) when ignition switch was turned on. No fuel was delivered after that. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump. Note: there are many available and it isn't necessary to replace the whole assembly. The same symptoms appeared. Pulled the fuel pump relay. Note: The relay is located under the dash, way up almost against the inside of the dash top cover. It is on the driver's side. It is clipped in a bracket with two other relays and is connected with a green wire connector. I found it impossible to remove without unfastening the relay bracket. Previously, I had removed the main fuse block, the fuse block bracket, unmounted the ECM module, swinging it out of the way. The relay bracket is fastened with one philips screw. I bench tested the relay and found it was operational. This leads me to believe that the ECM is not getting a proper signal from another sensor (Camshaft positioning, crankshaft positioning, speed, or other sensor) and doesn't pull closed the relay. Since this vehicle doesn't warrant too much further diagnostics or repair, I plan to wire the pump power through a separate switch. This will also result in an anti-theft feature but who would steal this anyway, lol. Good luck to other Subaru owners with the electrical part of the fuel system. It is not that complicated but device locations and diagnostics can be troublesome. Edit: Just for shits and giggles, I removed battery power for a minute to see if the ECM needed a "burp". Turned the key and it fired and ran fine. It may have been the pump on it's last legs offering too much resistance, a bad connection being manipulated, or the ECM may be getting snafued. I'll post back if results go South. Edited May 31, 2017 by westend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damnsubaru Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 where does the relay get it's power and does the ign get it's power from the same place? the car i am working on has no spark and no fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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