I am in the middle of doing a timing belt / oil seal replacement and I have most of the parts removed to get to the cam seals. I started loosening the cam sprocket bolts and one bolt on each has a stripped head. I can get the bolt remover set to get the bolts off, but where should I get replacement bolts?

 

I have got to learn to not start projects with limited time.

take one with you to an auto parts store...

you can find some to get you through til you come up with some from a yard

or a member... those bolt boxes autozone sells are quite often a godsend and wonderful to just have on hand.

are you using 6 point or 12 point sockets? 6 points are much better at not rounding off the bolts. on those small bolts sometimes a 6 point socket will remove a bolt that a 12 point rounded off, might want to give that a try.

 

also make sure you have the socket fully seated all the time, it's easy to get it wobbling as the cam pulley wants to move with the force you're giving it.

 

heat and PB blaster don't hurt either if you have those on hand.

 

as for bolts, subaru's uses standard metric sizes, you won't have any problem finding those sizes at any hardware store. you can even use some off of less important parts of the car....like maybe the fender bolts, timing belt bolts...any of those that are long enough may be the same thread and will be easier to replace later when you get more bolts.

Be careful using "mystery" bolts or body / trim bolts for engine parts. Most engine bolts are harder / higher strength than the body / trim bolts.

grossgary makes a good "point" re: the 6 or 12 point sockets. I will always use a 6-point for the reasons stated. Anyway, when you take the damaged bolt to the store for replacement, you'll notice there are markings on the bolt head that indicate the strength rating. Try to duplicate that as well as the bolt size.

i generally agree with the statement about the grade of bolt to use but for the cam sprocket it really wouldn't matter to replace one of the bolts that way. only should matter in a pinch though, sounds like you have plenty of time to get the right bolt.

 

you could also place a thread in the parts wanted forum, someone could surely mail you the bolts you need.

Ok, a 6 point socket worked and I got all the bolts off. I also got the cam seal retainers off, but the seals are super stuck in there. I have tried a seal puller which only dented the front of the seal. I tried hammering them out with a screwdriver, again only dented the front of the seal, and didn't move it at all. I tried installing the retainers again to see if I could get more leverage, but I can't even get the seal puller into the space between the cam and the seal.

 

I heard about those lisle shaft type seal pullers, but I can't seem to find any in my area. I'm in bothell, WA. Now of course I HAVE to remove the seals, they are pretty much trashed.

Another thing, the seals on my engine are aftermarket, and on the inside you can see a metal surface, which I don't see on the new ones which are subaru oem ones. Would an aftermarket seal be harder to remove? I also managed to break a hook from a pick and hook set.

Alrighty! I got the seals off finally, my way, with lots of prying them out using vice grips.

 

I actually have it almost back together now, but when I went to torque the crank bolt down, it stripped out. I must have had it cross-threaded. Anybody know what the stock bolt size and thread pitch are? I need to re-tap it and get the next size up, if possible.

Found out the bolt is an M14x2 with a 10.9 rating on it. The guy at NAPA said that should be good for 150-200 something ft-lbs, in case anyone wants to know.

 

I guess my options are tap it out to a bigger size bolt or put a heli-coil in. I don't think I can fit a drill in there, but maybe they make one that fits into tight spaces?

There is a right-angle drill that could be used. Radiator would have to come out, and you would probally have to atleast move the AC coil out of the way, (if you have AC).

 

Hard part there would be getting the drill properly aligned to the crank, and keeping it that way while you drill out the hole. Can be done, but it's not an easy task.... I've had to do this on a couple vehicles. Not fun at all..

 

loc-Tite used to have a thread repair product. I checked their site and didn't see it listed, maybe I didn't look in the right area. I've used it, it does work, IF,,,, directions are followed to the "T".

 

 

Now,, with all that said, you may want to consider getting another motor. Do a swap, then tear yours down to the crank and have a shop repair the crank. Reassemble the motor with whatever new goodies you want to use, and have a "fresh" motor for your ride.