newsoobdude Posted December 2, 2008 Share Posted December 2, 2008 I've had a problem with my Outback from the day I bought it 2 years ago. If it sits for a day I have to jump it. Replaced 3 batteries and one alternator, took it to 3 different mechanics with the same result ("nothing is wrong", "cannot find a problem") and took it NAPA today and was told my alternator was bad (it IS a rebuild from Kragen) and wouldn't hold above 13.5 with load. Took it to Kragen after and they say it is good, 13.8 under load. Was told anything under 14 is bad but Kragen will not cover new(er) Alternator or refund even though life time warranty. Pulled fuses and all the other stuff and nothing. Any ideas other than spending $$$ on a NEW alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Electrical problems like yours are always maddening! In my experience, I doubt that your battery is bad. Going through three batteries in two years leads me to think it is something else. Either you have a minor electrical short somewhere, or something like the light in the glove box stays on even after the glove box door is closed. I have heard of guys pulling all the fuses like you have done, then using a small 12 volt bulb in a socket with leads attached to spade terminals. Use this contraption to insert into each fuse location. You will get some bulb element lighting across the radio fuse location, as it draws a small amount of power to run the clock and radio memory. However, if the bulb lights on a circuit that has nothing turned on, then you can suspect something wrong on that circuit, and then you can investigate what is drawing the current. It is time consuming to do this, so many mechanics don't want to invest their time doing this, and want to get rid of you by saying they can't find anything wrong. There is a possibility that your alternator is bad. My experience is a bad alternator usually puts out less than 13 volts. 13.5 volts might be okay, maybe not. Did you ask Kragen guy and Napa guy what they consider to be proper voltage output on a good alternator? If your is marginal by their standards, try to get the Kragen guy to sway out your old one for a new one per your guarantee. I would try this before springing for a new alternator from Napa or another parts store. Let us know your progress. Subies are fun cars to own and drive. You deserve better then what you have right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screwbaru2 Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Sounds like you may have a parasitic drain on the elec. sys. Make sure the battery is at full charge. Connect a mulii meter to the battery. Watch the readings, it shouldn't drop. If it does drop start pulling fuses until it stops dropping. Once you find the drain you'll be able to watch the readings on the MM go up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 If you want to try a used alt, I have several. $45 shipped. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted December 4, 2008 Author Share Posted December 4, 2008 I have a re-manned alt. and would rather use my Warranty to get it replaced, but Kragen will not replace saying 13.8 under load is good but NAPA saying bad. NAPA says 14 is pushing good under load and use an analog meter whereas Kragen uses digital. Watching the needle on NAPA's it took 30 seconds PLUS to get to 13.5 but would not go higher even off load. Have tried the fuse test and all was good. Tried the battery disconnect and all was good. Guess I'll have to wait til next year and replace my Alternator again, this time with a NEW one . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted December 4, 2008 Share Posted December 4, 2008 The main problem you are having does sound like a parasitic draw from something. Have the current draw on the battery checked while the car is parked. With nothing turned on, the current draw should normally be around 25 milliamps. If you have more than say 60 milliamps start pulling fuses to see if you can pin down the path of the extra draw. The alternator is a suspect also. The alternator output voltage does seem a little low but the most important thing is how much current will it produce at that voltage. Have it load tested and see if it will produce the rated current at that voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted January 5, 2009 Author Share Posted January 5, 2009 Alright. Took my ride to ANOTHER shop and they found shorts and loose grounds all over:mad:. Had a short under the dash, in the engine compartment and loose grounds in the engine bay as well. Got it all fixed up but need to replace my battery now as it's been drained too many times (don't waste $$$ on Optima's they are sh*t. Go for Napa Dry cells :headbang:) but she runs great and my lights no longer dim when I hit the brakes:banana:. Now I can FINALLY hook up my subs in the back:banana:!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooster2 Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Glad to hear that you found the electrical gremlins, and got them sorted out. Subarus are well manufacturerd without shorts and loose grounds. Sounds like previous owner or shop he took it to caused the wiring problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RallyKeith Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 Alright. Took my ride to ANOTHER shop and they found shorts and loose grounds all over:mad:. Had a short under the dash, in the engine compartment and loose grounds in the engine bay as well. Got it all fixed up but need to replace my battery now as it's been drained too many times (don't waste $$$ on Optima's they are sh*t. Go for Napa Dry cells :headbang:) but she runs great and my lights no longer dim when I hit the brakes:banana:. Now I can FINALLY hook up my subs in the back:banana:!!!! Can you elaborate on the shorts and which grounds? I've been having a similar issue, but mine takes about 1 week to kill the battery and it's a car that is only driven when it snows, so it can very frequently sit for a week or more. I've started by cleaning up grounds since I only seem to se about a 30mA draw on the battery when the key is off. Thanks, Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted January 5, 2009 Share Posted January 5, 2009 A 30ma current draw is normal. You should have no trouble starting the car with a good battery even after sitting several weeks at that rate. Have the starter current checked to make sure it isn't causing an excessive load on the battery and check the battery also to make sure it is in good shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newsoobdude Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 RallyKeith- Unfortunately the guy who did the work and owns the shop doesn't speak english too well and I was in a hurry to get my car back as the shop was closing down for the night when I pulled up to pick it up. And another unfortunate thing is they are 400 miles away as I did it while visiting my family for the x-mas season. Sux that it took 2 shops to figure it out and the loss of my alarm from the previous shop:mad:. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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