Just make sure you take care of the rust as well. Any rust that is left on there will continue to work on that sheet metal even though it's covered! Glad you were able to get to it! Good luck on it! Lets see some pictures!

No time to bring the camera today so I used the cell phone for a couple of shots of what I have done. Basically clean out the entire cowl the best I could of all debris, rust and previous repair attempts. Then treat the entire length of the cowl with POR-15 Black and let it start to set up. Install the mat in pre-cut sections made with paper templates start at the end and overlap toward the middle piece. It will be the highest and last piece put in. Let this all set up hard and then before it's totally cured another coat of POR-15 over the top to insure it's rigid and water tight. The after shot didn't turn out looking well with the phone cam but you get the idea. This shouldn't ever leak or rust through again. I did the whole cowl this way. The new heater core and dash will get installed Monday morning after I replace all the dash lamps and tighten all the gauge connections. (Click for larger pictures)

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

My first priority was to make the interior water tight.

 

-Jeff

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

Awesome.

 

It was a treat to see it on the lift when I drove home today. I'm gonna have to stop in and shoot the ************ with you.

 

Heck, your so close I may just bring one of the calmasters for you to peep.

@Tex

I know it's you every time I hear you drive buy the shop. The "EJ" sounds great.

 

-Jeff

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

Just again make sure you don't just cover up the rust, remove it first! If you don't it will continue to eat away at the sheet metal! Good luck with it!

Well, this was supposed to be a good/quick temporary fix. I removed all the flakey loose rust that I could get to and converted the rest with POR-15. It seals out oxygen/moisture and dramatically reduces the chances of short term damage. Then, according to the manufacturers directions I rebuild the vacant sections with fiberglass mat and re-coated it again.

 

The problem is I can't weld sheet metal yet (no equipment/no practice) and I need to keep the car from being a swimming pool/mushroom farm:rolleyes: until I find a better solution. Perhaps this will even be permanent, who knows. The dash comes out in just a few minutes and the weather will improve soon. In a better world I would have found a donor car, cut the required sections larger than needed, and then fit and welded them in. That will have to wait.

 

-Jeff

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

Yeah I understand what you're saying. I suppose it will probably last a long time. Just make sure the fiberglass seals down good! But I'm sure it will be fine. Keep us updated with pictures etc.

So far it feels like concrete with a ceramic surface. Of course that doesn't mean it won't all bounce loose on the first pothole:grin:

Edited January 24, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

So far it feels like concrete with a ceramic surface. Of course that doesn't mean it won't all bounce loose on the first pothole:grin:

 

Yeah that's my fear. I mean the actual surface will be rock solid but how well did it bond to the sheet metal? That's the question

It's starting to clean up nicely. The original color was #74 black. I'm not crazy about the green but it will have to do for a while.

Thanks for the good deal on the wheels and tires Tex!

Looks great!

Love those EA81Ts! I can give you some tips on re-dyeing/coating those bumper skins. Mine were practically white when I got my wagon.

That would be great. The bumpers on my wagon are the same way.

Edited February 2, 200917 yr by XT6 Magic

Looks good! I always took a propane torch and lightly went all over the surface of the bumpers. It made them go right back to a nice semi-glossy black. It always worked great for me. Just make sure you don't hold it in one spot....obviously it will burn if it gets too hot