1989.5 RX

JDM EA82T

4EAT FT4WD

 

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Hey everyone.

 

I'm having all sorts of oil problems. First off... leaks.

 

I JUST replaced the valve cover gaskets not but a few months ago. Now my valve covers gaskets are leaking, and bad.

 

Also, my oil pressure is REALLY high. I'm running something like 60-80psi almost consistently, which pushes oil out of almost every orifice it seems like.

 

I do have a slightly dented oil pan, but it's been like that since I got the car. Other than that... what in gods name is causing my oil pressure to be that high and how in the world to my gaskets wear down after only a couple thousand miles?

 

Help?

What weight oil is in the car, and what is the outside temp? Does the oil pressure go down once the car is warmed.

 

Over tightening the valve cover gaskest is a common cause of leaking, followed by beinding the covers from prying them off from stubborn gaskets.

How's your PCV system doing?

Get that oil pan off, the pickup tube is in there and could be damaged if the pan is bent bad enough. You'll have to remove the exhaust and the engine mount nuts and lift the engine an inch or two.

Is the engine heating up to proper temps?

Are you sure it's the valve cover gaskets? Every gasket and seal will leak and should be replaced with quality parts.

What weight oil is in the car, and what is the outside temp? Does the oil pressure go down once the car is warmed.

 

Over tightening the valve cover gaskest is a common cause of leaking, followed by beinding the covers from prying them off from stubborn gaskets.

 

Pretty hard to bend cast aluminum.

But the oil pan is steel and its a common problem when overtightened.

Make sure you check out the cam seals like I suggested.

Does the oil pressure drop at idle?

If not, the dented pan could be blocking the PU tube like Frank said.

If the oil pan was damaged enough to partially block the pickup tube would it not Lower Oil Pressure guys.The issue here is excessively high Oil Pressure,this may be due to temperature and or oil Grades,also it may just be a stuck Oil Pressure Relief valve as we normally modify these with a stronger spring to increase Oil Pressure,therefore if for some reason it is sticking it could easily lead to higher oil pressure.

For anyone thinking of increasing Oil Pressure by changing springs either replace the spring totally with a stronger one or Alternately find a smaller spring wound the opposite way that fits inside the stock spring,this may be of interest to someone running a Subie in Hotter areas.

Generally I have found these EA motors seem good at about 55~60 Psi Oil pressure at 3,000 Rpm and hate it when they drop below 20 Psi at idle.

The Pressure relief valve should maintain the pressure near what it does at 3,000 Rpm all the way to redline not continue to Rise with the Revs.

I don't think a bent pan blocking the pickup tube will keep the oil pressure from droping, but it would cause oil starvation and tear up some bearings.

 

Is the engine getting up to normal temps?

I think your right to think it's the spring you modified, that would be the first place to start.

I like the spring trick though, I'll keep that in mind whenever I get to reseal my engine.

Any chance to inspect the PCV system yet? A pressurized crankcase will show a falsely high oil pressure reading, and will blow oil out from anywhere it can..............

Alrighty!

 

I did find that the PCV valve was bad.

 

I replaced it with a new one.

 

The oil pressure is fine now, but the driver side crank case cover is still leaking, which I will replace.

 

Anyone know the exact torque specs for the cover bolts so I can avoid over-tightening?

Could be wrong here but seem to recall the valve cover bolts are "stepped". If so, they can't be overtorqued.

I replaced mine last week, and they just quit turning when they are tight, no need to torque them.