Okay so I have a 93 Legacy L 2wd with a little less than 200K that just died while I was coasting around a corner and now will not turn over. It will crank and crank but nothing.

 

It sounds like a different crank to me as well. Like now it sounds"flat" compared to the way it sounded before when it would crank.

 

I have checked for fuel and it is being delivered. I checked all the plug wires and they are intact and secure. I have not checked for spark, but it seems that a bad coil pack or other would not just go out while it was firing, I dunno.

 

I do however have the cam sprocket covers off and have inspected the timing belt. The belt is intact on both sides and taught.

 

I can see the marks on the cam sprockets but I'm not sure how to check if it is in time.

 

Can someone please let me know how I can check to see if it jumped time or have any other ideas?

Edited April 30, 200916 yr by kmckinney0126
add info

[...]I can see the marks on the cam sprockets but I'm not sure how to check if it is in time.

 

Can someone please let me know how I can check to see if it jumped time or have any other ideas?

2.2 Liter:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2SingleOverWin01.pdf

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/2.2Liter.pdf

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

 

Motor Magazine series; starts with 2.2, then moves on to 2.5:

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/072001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/082001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/092001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/102001_08.pdf

http://www.motor.com/magazine/pdfs/112001_08.pdf

 

Be sure to use the lines (''hash marks'') on the sprockets, not the arrows, when checking the timing. Don't be concerned about the belt marks, as long as the sprocket marks are in the right relationship to each other.

slightly off topic and maybe unnecessary:

 

since you can't see the crank timing hash mark with the timing cover and crank pulley in place, maybe it would make sense, whenever you have one apart, to paint a 'timing' mark on the crank pulley, 180* away from the keyway so you could see it at a glance.

 

just a thought.

maybe it would make sense, whenever you have one apart, to paint a 'timing' mark on the crank pulley, 180* away from the keyway so you could see it at a glance.

 

just a thought.

 

 

Sounds like a very good idea, johnc. Could be very helpful in the right circumstances.

Thanks so much for the links. They were paramount to getting my marks in time.

 

She is running now but with some valve noise. HLA's may have bled down but still has that 2.2 get up.

 

Once again thanks to the USMB for helping me get off the bus.

I have seen water pump failure cause the belts to jump time. Inspect carefully to insure nothing is locking up and that the hydraulic tensioner is not defective.

 

GD

Procedure included oil seals on cams and crank, water pump, stat, t-belt, lower idler pulley and sprocket. Should have done the oil pump while I was there.

 

I learned the hard way not to move the cams excessively as your HLA's may bleed down and you will have a whole other chore on your hands as I do. :mad:

Thanks so much for the links. They were paramount to getting my marks in time.

 

She is running now but with some valve noise. HLA's may have bled down but still has that 2.2 get up.

Procedure included oil seals on cams and crank, water pump, stat, t-belt, lower idler pulley and sprocket. Should have done the oil pump while I was there.

 

I learned the hard way not to move the cams excessively as your HLA's may bleed down and you will have a whole other chore on your hands as I do. :mad:

You're welcome, I'm glad that the links helped. Yes, the screws on the oil pump back plate should be checked for tightness whenever the TB work is done. When they're loose, the oil diversion can cause both a crank seal leak and the HLAs to not pump up readily. Also see: http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/LoyalInfo.pdf