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I really need timing belt help!!!


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got a new engine for my wagon (98 2.2l) the left timing cover was missing, but i turned it over a few times to make sure it was in time. well i thought i'd be slick and just pop off the cam gear and slip the cover behind it. not a good idea. the crank pulley had to come off etc etc. I did mark both cam sprockets but they aren't lined up now. ( the crank sprocket moved slightly when removing the crank pulley.) So is there any way to get it back in time without pulling the heads???!!! :confused:

thanks.

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the 98 EJ22 is interference, so make sure you got this exactly right. for the same reason, now is a good time to install a new belt. do not leave a used belt on there, if it breaks your "new" engine is now worthless or has significant internal damage.

 

there are TONS of threads about timing belts and endwrench (subaru's guru site) has all sorts of nifty articles and diagrams for doing the belts.

 

it's really easy - line up cams, line up crank and install belt. done. make sure you use the right mark on the crank sprocket since there's more than one.

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yes is is all great info IF the crank and both cams are in time. that's the problem mine slipped out of time and crank sprocket was never marked before belt slipped and was removed.. I am aware this is an interference engine which is why I CAN NOT just start turning the sprockets till they are lined up. That is precisely what happens when a belt brakes going down the road, and how valves get bent. So the question is Knowing that the crank only moved +/- 10deg , and I was only able to mark the original position of the cam sprockets in relation to the belt and not the crank.... Am I looking at pulling heads and putting #1 at TDC then aligning all pulleys before assembly, OR is there another SAFE way. Thanks a fistful. :mad:

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I was only able to mark the original position of the cam sprockets in relation to the belt and not the crank....

 

If you have belt marks for the sprockets you should be able to count teeth on the belt to find the proper crank setting--44 teeth from the right (passenger side) sprocket and 40.5 from left (driver side). Then just turn the crank to align it with that position.

 

Look at the graphic on page 15 of this:

http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/TBeltEWWin05.pdf

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You can move the crank and the cams to line the timing up you are not spinning at 3000 RPM as you would be going down the road.

 

If you are turning things by hand and it locks up, STOP and turn it the other way.

 

Put the crank in position, then the cams.

 

Install the new idler pulleys, the new belt and then the toothed idler.

 

Release the tensioner, then rotate the engine in the normal direction, at least 720 degrees and recheck the timing marks on the gears.

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you do not have a mechanical problem actually you don't have any problem, this is really easy.

 

*** to make sure you know this: MARKING THE BELTS IS NOT NECESSARY. that has nothing to do with anything. the cam and crank have markings on them to match up with markings on the engine, it's really easy. and the cam markings both point directly UP if the belt covers are not attached.

 

hardly any of us on here mark the belts or worry about maintaining alignment when pulling an old belt. i never do, i'm always exactly where you are right now.

 

practice some with the search function, it is very beneficial to look up stuff using that. for instance, you would have answered all of your own questions 15 minutes from the first time you posted the first thread using the search function. there are tons of past threads on timing belts.

 

ask questions about that if you can't get it to work well, it does have some kinks that are good to know.

Edited by grossgary
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