Just wondering if there'd be interest in anyone who'd be planning on doing the job that would want to see it done (heh, hopefully done).

 

I'm near Cortland NY

 

Dave

Dave, sorry I don't live near you, so I can't help with the bearing.

But if you are going to use a Hub Tamer, and you want my step by step writeup, email me and I will send it to you.

nwlovell@yahoo.com

From my understanding he is offering a lesson to show people how it is done Good idea!

Not necessarily a lesson, although I'm pretty good at the mechanic thing, but definitely wanting to give anyone who's reluctant to pick up a wrench a chance to see what they could do.

 

Subie wheel bearings go out with enough regularity that I figured someone might benefit.

 

 

Dave

Dave, sorry I don't live near you, so I can't help with the bearing.

But if you are going to use a Hub Tamer, and you want my step by step writeup, email me and I will send it to you.

nwlovell@yahoo.com

 

 

I have no idea what a hub-tamer is, and I'll definitely pre-arm myself as much as possible.

 

Email sent.

 

 

Dave

A little surfing and OK, I see what a hub tamer is.

 

That'd be a neat tool to make, except for all the little collars.

 

I used this wheel bearing as an excuse to buy a press, so I can't go buy one of these for $250-500, the bright side is I do see upcoming uses for the press.

 

It's the age old question of buy a specialized tool that will do one thing (but save some work) or buy a generic tool that'll do more.

 

If I was running a shop I would def. go for the hub tamer.

 

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00994256000P?vName=Tools&cName=MechanicsTools&sName=Automotive%20Specialty%20Tools&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a

 

http://www.neweggmall.com/Product/2001489280/product.html?cm_mmc=PCE-GoogleSearch-_-Hardware-_-Hand%20Tools-_-2001489280

 

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt3531.html

 

 

 

Here's one in use:

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1996133

 

 

The key is that big black C shaped thing which holds the screw in place (but letting it turn) while the nut forces the hub out of the assembly.

 

Except for the hub part, you'd just do everything backwards (facing in) from the way it's done on that honda.

 

 

Dave

Dang, I grew up in Skaneateles and would have loved to stopped by....but the current Maine location is a bit far. Take lots of pictures and notes, how-to's are always appreciated.

Dave

 

what car are you working on?

 

Front or rear bearing?

 

I would like to see it if Ican arrage the time (unless its done already)

I'm in Stormville

email me at avalanche54321 at yahoo

Bill

Dave

 

what car are you working on?

 

Front or rear bearing?

 

I would like to see it if Ican arrage the time (unless its done already)

I'm in Stormville

email me at avalanche54321 at yahoo

Bill

 

Stormville, hey, they still doing the flea market?

 

I group up a few miles from sylvan lake.

 

This is going to be the front bearing, 2003 outback LL bean, but applicable to any subes that use the press-in bearing, I think.

 

If no one is going to head over I will probably do it this thursday, if anyone wants to come I'll do it this weekend, probably saturday (the parts stores are open longer!)

 

 

Dave

I'd love to attend but I don't see it happenning.

 

Appreciate the invite of the folks here though.

I think I could do saturday. Please keep me up to date via pm! Thanks, John

I think I could do saturday. Please keep me up to date via pm! Thanks, John

 

message sent-

 

Dave

So far bgambino is a maybe and johnc, haven't heard from you yet.

 

Let me know so I can figure if I'm going to do it during the week, or saturday.

 

 

Dave

I have a hard time believing a hub tamer would have worked on that wheel bearing job!

At one point (removing the outer race) I had to put a considerable amount of force onto the extension handle for the press pump-jack. If it's at capacity (20 tons) when you are pulling as hard as you can on the extended handle, then I must have used 10-15 tons.

The hub came out without too much fanfare, but pressing that bearing outer-race out took much more force.

 

Press worked pretty sweet.

 

Job would have been seriously tough if I didn't have quite a collection of metal bits, old bearing races, old transmission gears, and an old sprocket.

 

Only hard parts, really, were getting the ABS sensor out undamaged (at least 40 minutes) and (of all things) getting a rusted cotter pin out of the tie rod end (about 30 - 40 minutes). Thought I was going to have to remove the tie rod end and drill it out on the drill press.

 

Getting the axle loose in the hub was a real pain, but not really worse than I figured it would be. Tried a tool I built quick the other day to press the axle out, but it wasn't strong enough. Had to use the big hammer.

On the splines there was this really hard dark-gray crunge that was very hard, had to really scrape at it with a screwdriver to clean it up. It looked like grease that had been cooked to the point of turning it into cement.

 

There was much joy when I got the knuckle free and spun the hub, and it was noisy.

Hub was pristine.

 

The races weren't in horrible shape but the rollers were discolored and were starting to pit on the bad bearing. There was still a fair bit of grease in the bearing.

 

Pressing the hub into the new bearing really takes just the right size piece, as you have to support the inner race of the bottom bearing with something that will fit inside the grease seal and support the bearing without touching the bearing cage.

 

I saw in the manual that it is very important to not put any weight onto the bearing until the nut is fully preloaded. After seeing how much the nut turned and drew the two inner races together on the hub before starting to preload the bearing I can see why- you could have all the weight on the corner of just one roller.

 

After tightening the nut as much as possible before the brakes were on, then with the brakes back together and locked it turned one or two times with a fair bit of force (one or both inner races are sliding on the hub) then when it got the bearings together it reached the 159 ft-lbs with almost no turning at all.

 

With lunch in there, and a little presswork for JohnC from here, it was about 9 hours from start to test-drive. I was taking it a bit slow just to be sure I didn't hose anything.

 

John, thanks for the company and the third hand for some of those tricky bits!

 

 

Dave

Edited May 17, 200916 yr by CNY_Dave

Hi Dave, glad to hear it went as well as possible with your new press. I agree that getting the old outer race out of the knuckle took MUCH more force than I ever would have dreamt! ( mine was driver's rear bearing on 2001 Forester. I used Hub Tamer). I ended up using a 10 lb slide hammer and at least 60 full force whacks to get that old outer race out. It was a total beeyatch! Hey, at least you didn't have to melt out a frozen lateral link bolt/bushing!