Would it be easier and faster to do it by lifting the engine?

 

I'm just looking for the fastest and less dirty/easiest route.

Did you try replacing the PCV valve just out of curiousity?

 

Either way if the engine needs to be yanked might as well do a overhaul on the belt and a bunch of seals. Even the water pump if it makes you feel better.

Did you try replacing the PCV valve just out of curiousity?

 

Either way if the engine needs to be yanked might as well do a overhaul on the belt and a bunch of seals. Even the water pump if it makes you feel better.

 

If I yank the engine I'll replace seals. But if it's easier to go from the bottom and do it from the transmission, then I'll replace only what seals there are down there.

 

I can't take too much time off work to fix it, which is why I'm in a time crunch.

 

--edit--

 

screw it. I'm going to yank the engine from the top. I don't feel like spending days on my back under the car. Beside, I don't have any ramps or jacks to put the car on a lift.

 

Anyone know of any step by step guides for pulling an ej22 engine?

Edited June 4, 200916 yr by DupermanDave

-bump-

 

I'm not going to do an engine overhaul while the engine is out, but what else should I order while at the dealership? I have (1) oil separator plate, (1) rear main seal....anything else? People keep saying timing belt, so I'll consider that (even though that might add a day to this project)

 

got my parent's garage reserved and I'm going to take 2 days off to tackl this (so I can have 4 days total to work on it)

Look around for endwrench articles on doing htis.

 

I'll have to go back and se ethe miles, year, etc.

 

Generally.

2 Cam seals

Crank seal

oil pump O ring

Orings (for the cam ends on the 2.2)

Baffle plate and screws.

Timing belt?

 

 

Other sources:

 

Untra Grey

NGK

Timing Belt

Accessory belts.

coolant

valve covers? (usually by now the Orings are leaking and you'll notice that when you poull the plugs. The VC's themselves may not be leaking.

Hose clamps (for rad and ATF hoses)

 

If a lot of miles Water Pump

Idlers if sounding bad or a lot of miles.

Edited June 5, 200916 yr by davebugs

I think you made the right choice pulling the engine.

 

Do all the other maintenance work and a better job on the pan.

 

You may want to get a pickup tube Oring since you'll have the pan off.

 

I would recommend against the rear seal. Unless it's proven that it's the culprit. My local dealer doesn't even stock one. Usually they look like they are weeping a little from all the oil floating around from the baffle plate.

 

I would recommend against the rear seal. Unless it's proven that it's the culprit. My local dealer doesn't even stock one. Usually they look like they are weeping a little from all the oil floating around from the baffle plate.

 

 

I've heard that too. I'm also a fan of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." I'll buy one just in case so I don't have to make 2 trips to the dealer, and if it isn't the culprit...at least I have a backup.

 

I forgot about coolant. And RTV. I would have been in trouble.

 

I think I'm also going to replace plugs and wires and PCV while I'm at it. Wife will be happy :-)

 

-edit-

Search seems to be down. I can't find the endwrench articles (or do any search for that matter). I'll try again tonight when I'm at home.

Gasket scraper?

 

I always use a lot of brake clean.

-bump-

 

I'm not going to do an engine overhaul while the engine is out, but what else should I order while at the dealership? I have (1) oil separator plate, (1) rear main seal....anything else? People keep saying timing belt, so I'll consider that (even though that might add a day to this project)

 

got my parent's garage reserved and I'm going to take 2 days off to tackl this (so I can have 4 days total to work on it)

 

new screws for the plate, one is different from the others so there will be 2 part numbers, one of one and several of the others.

new screws for the plate, one is different from the others so there will be 2 part numbers, one of one and several of the others.

 

 

gotcha. so order new screws from the dealer as well?

gotcha. so order new screws from the dealer as well?

yes

 

1 of 1 and 5 of the other

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=82587&highlight=sep*

Edited June 5, 200916 yr by johnceggleston

So the dealer should know what screws I need for this oil plate?

 

What exactly does this oil separator plate do? My dad was thinking it was just a dust cover (so why does it leak?) But I tried to explain the situation to him and I couldnt reasonably figure out what this plate does.

It covers a hole with oil behind it.

 

And it's plastic. That's why it leaks. That's all you need to know. You can investigate when you have it off.

 

Not a whole lot behind it really.

 

If I think of it I'm about to move an engine that has the baffle plate off. Lots of sludge in the engoine so I didn't use it. But I stole the baffle plate to replace one that was cracked. Really I don't see may cracked. Warped maybe, seal gone bad definately, cracked is rare.

Edited June 8, 200916 yr by davebugs
typinf abilities

http://www.endwrench.com/pdf/engine/FtCamBeltReplaceW01.pdf

I must say, while you have the engine out, spend a little extra time and a few extra dollars and do whatever preventive type maintenance you can. I recently had to repair my #2 & #4 Head so in went a new clutch, lightened flywheel, baffle plate & rear main (I was wondering why the clutch was slipping every now and then) Unfortunately both were leaking. The plate actually looked better than the rear main. Oil Pan, the list goes on...

 

Anyway, If it helps at all, I have complete pics of the job at:

1999 Impreza OB Sport 2.2L EJ223

I took a quick look at the pics.

 

This could help others.

 

Thanks for undertaking the documentation effort.

Yes, very nice series of pics, mahalo! You sure made it look pretty inside there!

 

Hope the rear main is good for you and that you can solve the ticking problem.

Yeah, pics are good. I'd take some pics and HD video, but I won't have a partner to video the removal and I'll also be pressed for time. I also have no idea what I'm doing with this new engine, so I don't want to seem too ignorant.

I just changed a separator plate on a 96 2.2, I used one from a dead 99 2.5 liter because I had it, and it fit. Also, I had a pretty big leak from the cam end cover, on the rear of the right side head. There's an o-ring there, and only 2 12mm head bolts to change. Pretty easy while the engine is in the car also.

 

Pat

About to tackle the project Sunday. Got all my days off lined up 4 days in a row (you think it'll take that long?)

 

Got all the parts ($76 total. woweee). New parts look sturdy. The server guy mentioned a special bolt, which I ordered, that had special threadlock on it. He said it goes in a different spot than the rest. I can't remember where he pointed, but is the spot the odball screw goes into the spot with the big giant arrow pointing to it?

 

-edit

BeerGarage dude says "The odd bolt with thread lock already installed went into the top left hole with the arrow. Bolts use 4mm allen. Had to scramble to find one as the threadlock was drying. "

 

Edited July 11, 200916 yr by DupermanDave

does anyone know if a good writeup for accessing the transmission and oil separator plate? I've been flipping through service manuals and I started tearing the thing apart today. Got the exhaust off, but now i'm lost.

The "oil seperater/bafle plate" is on the right in that last pic.

 

You gotta remove the engine or trans to get at it, and the transmission seal - if thats what you're looking for.

 

If you remove the torgue converter make sure you look here to see how to seat it properly, it can be a real treat.

Do I have to remove the front axles to be able to remove the transmission? This is where I'm stuck.

sorry to bump this thread but I think I have the same issue.. what is this baffle plate that everyone talks about? I need to change my oil pan anyways because it's rusting where the stick tube goes and the rear of the pan is leaking.

 

kinda seen here

 

Do I have to remove the front axles to be able to remove the transmission? This is where I'm stuck.

 

 

I don't see how you can remove the transmission with the drivesshafts still in place.