Hi, I'm new here and to my 1994 Loyale. It was given to me by my brother who is an owner of a 91 Loyale with low miles. Having two Loyales he decided not to fix the broken timing belt and now it's mine. I replaced the timing belts and the car ran fine. Now it bucks when under load and climbing hills. I'm getting only 17-18 lbs fuel pressure with the guage hooked in the place of the damper on feed line to the Throttle body. When I deadhead it rises slowly. I've searched and the Haynes says 17.5- 24 psi and from searching here it should be higher. Should I look at the pressure regulator or the pump? If pump I want to use the ford truck pump because of availability.I think I'm on the right track but need some opinions Thanks

How long did it "run fine" after doing the timing belt?

 

Are there any codes stored in the ECU?

 

Your fuel pressure sound fine. The difference between what I've typically seen on a gauge (~20) and what you are reading is pretty insignificant and could easily be due to gauge inaccuracy. If anything you could swap in a used regulator and see if it changes, but as you noted that it rises when dead-headed, the pump is obviously capable of more than is required of it. Typically I've found they run about 50 psi dead-head pressure.

 

GD

Edited June 9, 200916 yr by GeneralDisorder

You do have the symptom of a weak pump though it could be due to other things.

Another Zeke?

 

How's the fuel filter? Sounds a little like that too.

When I checked for codes all I could get was code 5 for destination no others If I was doing everything right . It has new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. I also changed the fuel filter. It idles smooth and runs decent under light acceleration on level but on an incline or when I floor it it stumbles and no power. With the fuel pressure guage I'm getting the same pressure reading throughout rpm range. I had an identical problem with my Ford truck and it was the pressure regulator but with the price of a new one would like to not be overlooking something. Zeke is my dog.

Haha. I've never met another person named Zeke, but I have known at least 4 dogs with that name.

Edited June 9, 200916 yr by zyewdall

I've changed fuel pressure regulator and pump. Double checked my timing belt installation. New plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Still stumbling bad and finally got a code 11 with white test plugs together. according to my Haynes manual it is crank angle sensor circuit. Timing is dead on and the car starts instantly and idles smooth but have an acceleration problem driveability. Is there any servicing of this type distributor or do I need another one or am I overlooking something?

The disty may have excessive slop in the shaft and could cause trouble. You can also replace the CAS sensor inside it. I'm not real convinced that is the trouble area but it could be. The injector may be bad also. The MAF sensor is another possibility.

Do you have a Digital Multi-Meter?

 

Test both windings in the coil - I'm curious to see if you have weak spark at all.

 

Next you should check that the throttle posistion sensor sweeps cleanly when you actuate it by hand - the readings should be smooth.

 

Clean the MAF with some brake cleaner - the wires may be dirty.

 

What would really help is if you could put a wideband O2 sensor on it and see if you are getting a lean condition. Could be a bad injector or something.

 

Sounds likely that you have a fuel or ignition problem but it's very hard to troubleshoot over the internet. You might have to invest in some tools to figure this one out unfortunately.

 

GD

Thanks to everyone here! I went back to start of my project removed timimg belts and started from scratch again reinstalled the belts along with a new water pump this time. Adjusted the timing and now it runs good. I had fuel pressure problem now fixed, along with I must of been a tooth off on drivers timing belt giving me the code 11. No codes now and all is good. This is a great forum !