We found some old stock going thru Charlie's things. Among them I have a pack of two of the rear side hinged window Latches. They are p/n 6622 16091 original part number.

Thanks for the heads up Paul, but I had my originals rechromed, so not in dire need of these. However, if no other coupe guys want/need them, I may get them as spares dependent on the price. Keep me advised on any other goodies you guys turn up, especially any rubber bits.

 

Mark

Omg that color.... I only just now saw this build thread. Datsunrides: your first gen looks great!!

 

I notice you added an A/C compressor to yours... was that a factory option on these? In my repair manual I see some pics with and some without the compressor but the manual covers multiple model years. It's been hot lately in San Jose; gotta cool off!

No, not a factory option, dealer installed option. Nearly all japanese cars in the 60's until around mid 70's that had A/C were dealer options. Not sure with Subaru, but some manufacturers did make the kits the dealers installed but most were from a couple outfits in Texas. From my understanding by those more knowledgeable, kits for the 72'-73' coupe are hens teeth rare and I can tell you that you will not be able to use the stock shifter console with the setup I have. Mine has a cheap plastic shifter tray thingy. That said, it would not be that hard to fabricate something up with the universal hot rod stuff and may even be able to keep the original console.

 

Mark 

Nice little writeup on speedhunters.

 

http://www.speedhunters.com/2015/10/yep-its-a-subaru/

 

Mark

Outstanding !

Would anyone know the original part # or maybe a source for the fuel sender o-ring. I replaced the o-ring with the closest I could find, but I think it was not thick enough as I get a gas smell whenever the tank is over half full. I already replaced all the other hoses when I put her back together so this is my best guess.

So the car was invited last week to join a nice little ride down in the LA area with other select JNC's. Guess I better get that weber carb on there along with a few other things I want to do.

Ok, manage to get the needed work done today. So along with the weber carb, I decided I wanted to also replace the water pump while I was at it since the car was running warmer than I would have liked and I don't know how long it was on there. This would also give me the opportunity to change the lower hose to a NOS piece I have. Well, you know how they better to leave well enough alone?    So, I start by draining the radiator, removing the belts and unbolting the water pump. So far, no problem, everything unbolts fine. I noticed one of the top 6mm bolts was a stud, which I found strange. Upon further inspection, somewhere along the way, the water pump was changed and probably broke that bolt off and instead of fixing it correctly, they drilled it out and mickey moused a (guessing) air cleaner stud in it's place. No problem I figure, I'll just helicoil it right? Wrong. It was already drilled out larger than the size needed for the helicoil.    So not that big a deal, I would just install a spare external "pipe" i have except I know there is going to be a very high likelihood this would involve broken bolts, as the intake would need to come off. Well, I'm happy to report that after about an hour + of meticulous application of heat and PB blaster along with lots of ratchet action all the bolts came out without breaking!    All threads were chased and the reassembly began with the replacement "pipe".

 

 

Then installed the new waterpump.

 

 

The NOS lower hose.

 

 

The intake back on.

 

 

And the weber installed.

 

 

Hooked everything back up and filled it with coolant and

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Runs like a top!

Show 'em up !!!

Did a 65 mile round trip *shakedown* run yesterday. Happy report no major issues other than it was still running warmer than I would like, it has an annoying shifter rattle (probably due to not reinstalling the little weight block thingy, it was hanging by a string), has a CV that is slightly clicky when turning (which upset me because they are NAPA rebuilds, but were bought 6 years ago so the warranty is long gone) and it's reving at 4k @ 65. I think the running warm issue was the A/C condenser blocking adequate airflow. I removed it this morning and it seems to be OK now, needle stays in the center as it should, but I did not take it over any hills like I did yesterday. I have a 5 speed that should help with the RPM's, just need to find time to swap it in. Oh, and she got 28mpg on the shakedown with the new weber. It does seem to be running somewhat rich with the stock jetting so I plan to get some smaller jets and see if I can get the mileage up to the mid 30's at least after I do the LA trip. Better to be a little rich than a little lean.

Well, made the 500 mile trip from hollister to San diego for the group drive with no real issues other than the horrendous traffic once you get into LA. Average mileage so far is 35 mpg! This from 70's technology. Probably 200 miles tomorrow than another 400 to get back home Sunday. I'm going to be tired!

Just have plenty of 8-tracks to pop in and crank up!

I have not been comfortable with the engine temps since I put her back on the road. It has never overheated, but it was running near the top of the normal range more than I would like. Since I plan to eventually get the A/C operational, that would not make things any better so I bit the bullet a few weeks ago and had a custom aluminum radiator fabricated. Got it back a few days ago and installed it today. Didn't do a long drive, but the temp while driving was just a little past the low part of normal. Hopefully this holds true when going over hills and with the A/C running.

Mine always runs around the top line of the normal range, sometimes a tiny bit higher. I haven't checked actual temp with what the gauge says but I have a new temp gauge sender just in case.

So.... is this car going to venture North to the West Coast Subaru show this weekend??

That was the plan, but unfortunately due to a schedule error on my part I did not make it. Technically I could have, but I was in no position to pull an all night drive to make it. There is always next year and maybe by then I will have made a move to central Oregon so I will be a lot closer.

The custom aluminum radiator

 

Small update. I was pulling parts down from my attic to start boxing stuff up for a planned relocation hopefully later this year and found a set of 13" trim rings. Cleaned them up, put them on the buffer wheel and installed on the car. I like it!

Can we like them too ? Lol

 

Pic !!!

2 1/2 years later LOL

 

Sweet !!! 

Can’t wait for the next 2 1/2 years to go by. :)

How’s life up north ? 

Well, I still work down in the bay area for 6 months out of the year so not yet a "full time" resident, but hopefully in 2 more years. I do really like the pace of life up here. Totally different from the rat race down south.

So, after around 4 years of doing nothing but home improvements projects to the old and new houses, I finally got around to doing a needed project on the old girl. At the time I put her back together, there was a coolant leak coming from the heater somewhere. Since it was close to the JCCS show and I didn’t want to deal with it right then, I just bypassed the heater. Fast forward to now and I got some time to address the issue. Doing some testing confirmed I had both a leaking heater valve and heater core! So out came the box and I first wanted to check the heater core. After getting it out and testing in a bucket of water while filled with air it turned out to be a small crack in one of the side tanks. A little heat and solder fixed that. The bigger problem is the valve. I know these are at this point basically non existent. I did have a spare heater box but of course that valve was also leaky. There are universal valves out there, but they are either cable operated or vacuum operated but the main thing was they all seem to be 5/8” connections where this car has 1/2” hoses. I know you can adapt the hose but I wanted to see if I could find a cleaner solution that would be as close to bolt on as possible, short of finding a NOS piece. Turns out the solution for me was in the garage next to the Subaru. A Datsun 1200 heater valve. While not a bolt on, it does have the correct 1/2” inlet / 5/8” outlet in a 90* configuration. Best thing is they are still readily available. Ordered a new one and swiped the one on the car to modify for the Subie. Here are the pics of what is involved in making it work in the stock location. Basically welded the 1200 valve to the Subie bracket.

Edited June 25, 20214 yr by Datsunrides

I remember nothing about those sizes, but was gonna suggest Datsun convertible as my old SRL311 had a valve.