Ive heard of this done once before on one of these forums but I cant remember where or even if it worked out.

 

But if not, can it be regeared? Having 29's it doesnt help with crawling offroad.

You cannot theoretically add an additional subaru transfercase to your already dual range 4WD. Subaru's do not have a "Transfercase". Just an external output shaft that sends power from the front diff, out to a rear driveline.

 

However, Suzuki Samaria & some other makes out there have what is called a "Divorced Transfercase" which is an external, dual range, transfercase that is run from a driveshaft off a transmission, and splits power 50/50 to front & rear.

 

Its documented (in the off-road forum) how people modify their subaru's, mount a divorced transfercase & run that off the rear output shaft of their stock Subaru Dual range.

 

This way you have Subaru HI/Low + Suzuki 1:1 & low range. Giving you the effect of a dual transfercase.

I will keep looking around. I did find the combination of a 8" lift and running a rear diff up front under the engine, but I only have the 6" and i dont plan on changing it.

I did find the combination of a 8" lift and running a rear diff up front under the engine, but I only have the 6" and i dont plan on changing it.

 

If you aren't willing to install a divorced t-case, then you are stuck with the gearing you have unless you want to spend BIG $$ on an EJ dual range transmission from europe and install 4.11 gears and the low range from the USDM 5 speed D/R (1.59:1). That will only lower your diff ratio from 3.9 to 4.11 though and it would be AWD not 4WD.

 

For running the rear diff in the front with a t-case, 10" of lift is better. 8" is the bare minimum to clear everything but you end up modifying the floor pan to make it work.

 

GD

I do like the sammy t case idea of all things the most. I doubt i would ever lift a subie over 8" and drive it on the street. Mine with the sway bar installed has body roll like no other.

 

Ive noticed theres a lot of you guys modifying and wheeling these subarus in the Snohomish county of WA. Ironically, thats where im located.

There is no way to install a 2nd transfercase without adding at least 8" of lift.

 

The installation of the transfercase also means you must install an additional rear differential, but in the front of the car. The only way to make enough clearance is to lift the body.

how can you say there is no way junkie?

 

if a guy cut his trans tunnel,kept everything up in stock location it could be done easily.even with 4" of lift.

 

 

just depends on how far you want to go.

keep searching man,you'll find all kinds of cool stuff being done. cheers, brian

if a guy cut his trans tunnel,kept everything up in stock location it could be done easily.even with 4" of lift.

 

There would be no room for the "rear" diff to be mounted in the front. Being it would need to go under the transmission.... that results in about a minimum of 8" to the front. Rear could stay stock height I guess if you wanted - sure would look damn funny though

 

GD

Maybe ill consider what Monstaru is building. Build new engine crossmember that sits higher and trans mount essentially at a stock height, trim the factory front crossmember for diff fitment and gusset, and trim/bang for sammy case and mounts.

 

I like the idea. I cant stand how boggy it is even in 4lo with 29s. It needs regearing, even if the diffs stay 3.90s.

 

On that note, how much better will the ej22 react with a setup like this? Less hesitation? I own a 92 legacy touring wagon turbo, so I know its got a lot more power.

Yeah, the addition of adding the diff up front will lift the front of the car 8" itself.

if you shove the motor and tranny up by cutting the tunnel how do you not gain clearance under it?i mean, just curious.cheers, brian

How are you going to raise the motor any higher than it already is?

 

Something tells me you are up to something Brian

who , me?naw..... not me:)

You can move the engine higher than the stock location, but at some point you are going to lose clearance on the hood (more so with a carb than with FI), and the transmission can only go so high before you are seriously in danger of having to cut the unibody out at the spare tire area. I would much rather lift it higher and get the added benefits of being able to run 32's or larger than try and re-engineer the body at great cost of time and effort only to gain virtually nothing from said effort.

 

Lifting it higher and retaining the stock location of the engine and trans is preferable to my way of thinking.

 

I swear - when I get my machine shop set up I'm going to build chain driven portal hubs and eliminate all this foolishness. A 1.6:1 reduction at each wheel would give all the lift you would need, all the gearing you would want, and take much of the stress off the stock drivetrain components. In combination with a bit of suspension rework, and a small body lift it would easily accomidate 33's and still be streetable on stock drivetrain components.

 

GD

I like the portal hub idea GD! Always thought it would be the way to go but the $$$ of having them custom made.

 

Recently have seen some in a 4x4 mag. They are just using twin idler gears.

Only for the D60 for now though. Maybe if the Yota guys show interest and some are made for them, we could be closer to modding a set for Soobs. Maybe.

 

http://www.motorsports.axletech.com

Edited July 13, 200916 yr by TeamCF

Anything with Portal hubs will need to be trailered.

Anything with Portal hubs will need to be trailered.

 

Why? Don't Pinzguars and H1's have portal hubs? They can drive on the roads.

Anything with Portal hubs will need to be trailered.

 

As with anything, that depends on how they are built and what the gear ratio is. With a 1.6:1 reduction, you would still be able to do 55 MPH at 4,000 RPM in 5th gear on 33's. I've already done all the math.

 

And as stated - H1's run portal hubs as well Unimog's and other's. They are perfectly streetable.

 

GD

Oh you said 1.6:1

 

I saw 6:1. That is what I am after!

Oh you said 1.6:1

 

I saw 6:1. That is what I am after!

 

Good grief. That would be geared down.....

build chain driven portal hubs..........

GD

 

 

Geeze, welcome to 1908. Why not a modified planetary arrangement? I'd think that would cut maintenance greatly, plus you wouldn't have to worry about a chain abandoning ship while on the road-

Good grief. That would be geared down.....

 

Thought that is what we were after

Thought that is what we were after

 

That would lead to a final drive ratio of 120:1 in first gear low range. Pretty low, considering the final drive in my landrover, stock, was 40:1, and will be about 70:1 after the revisions.

My 4Runner's final right now is 90:1. That is with some 4.7:1 transfercase gears & 4.88's in both axles. But once I add another Transfercase, it will goto about 200:1

 

now THAT is slow!

Thought unimogs were planetary? 120:1 would probably be required for me to even consider real wheelin/crawlin and not puddle jumping or trail hopping. Plus the ea81/82s would no longer be underpowered for the setup.

 

Essentially, with stock tires in low 1st gear is still not enough for me. 3.90 and 1.5 isnt geared down enough for most of reiter pit thats for sure.