The Dude Abides Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Thinking about swaping my disc brakes over this after noon. Couple questions. How long to you think this will take and is it necessary to bleed them afterwards. Im kinda on my own on that one. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
presslab Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Not sure how long it will take but you'll definitely have to bleed it. My driveway is sloped and if I put the front end up the brake fluid will just pour out the rear bleeder screws making it pretty easy to bleed myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 get some tubing, vacuum line, aquarium tubing whatever you can slip over the bleed fitting (I stretch aquarium tubing with a philips until I can just slip it onto the bulb on the bleed screw) find a clean container with a lid, peanut butter jar, crystal light can - whatever poke a hole in the lid so the tube can slide to the bottom and won't pull out of the container place it by the wheel to bleed, pour a little clean brake fluid in the bottom so the tube is submerged in the jar open the bleeder, (not too far) slip the tube on the end go pump your brakes, watch the reservoir level, keep an eye on the jar by the wheel the fluid in the jar won't let air come back in the line - one man bleeder when you have the big air out, leave the tubing on the fitting and tighten the bleed screw just enough to let it leak a bit - for the last pumps on the pedal - get out quickly and go straight to the fitting and tighten it - if there is still fluid standing in the line you know that it didn't let any air back in to the caliper/cylinder have fun, if nothing else, you double check them when you have a pump monkey later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 Tossin this one out there as well. How do i tell wich is the right of left side caliper when im installing these. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 Tossin this one out there as well. How do i tell wich is the right of left side caliper when im installing these. brake bleed screw goes to the back, line fitting to the front - speaking of which, did you get the metal brake line too? the line is a little different from the rubber hose connection on the trailing arm to the caliper vs. to the drum, also the drum fitting threads in, the caliper has a banjo bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) My understanding is this is a plug and play system. The only thing i need to undo is unplug the metal brake line from the drum and screw it into the rubber line from the caliper, NOW if this is wrong then i have a problem and will not be doing this today. This kit came off a car which was converted to disc brakes not from a junkyard car. Edited July 26, 2009 by The Dude Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 26, 2009 Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) This kit came off a car which was converted to disc brakes not from a junkyard car. You're good to go. Someone may have already dealt with it. Now get 'em on there so you can enjoy them Edited July 26, 2009 by Txakura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 26, 2009 Author Share Posted July 26, 2009 (edited) Wow that took less time then i thought. It was only 5 minutes before i snapped the end off of my big wrench trying to get the castle nut off. Oh just wonderful. I love haveing the proper tools. And people wonder why it takes me so long to get anything accomplished. I replaced the blower motor and the capand rotor as well. Nice suprise that there a screw holding the rotor on and that its impossible to get to without inventing a tool. So goble enginereing kicked in and used some duc tape pliars and fishing lure and wala it went off and on. Edited July 26, 2009 by The Dude Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Wow that took less time then i thought. It was only 5 minutes before i snapped the end off of my big wrench trying to get the castle nut off. Oh just wonderful. I love haveing the proper tools. You need one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Cooled-36mm-Axle-Removal-Tool/dp/B001CTJQLW GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 nice price Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) With all due respect mr GD i dont see how that is going to fix my problem when this is what i broke. Maybe it was when i used the yakama roof rack as a cheater bar. Edited July 27, 2009 by The Dude Abides Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) That fixes your problem because you aren't putting any torque on the ratchet. It is merely there to hold the removal tool - you strike the tool with a large hammer and it acts like an impact gun. The 1/2" drive hole in the tool is actually for a breaker bar to keep the tool from bouncing all over the place when you hit it. It is the BEST way to remove axle nuts if you don't have an impact. I carry one with me in my junk-yard tool kit. At home I have air so I don't need it, but it is indispensable for people that don't have air guns and need to work effectively on the cheap. Also - I know it's probably not in your budget, but a *quality* 1/2" ratchet would likely not have broken. I prefer the Snap-On stuff myself and you can pick them up reasonably on eBay. You can't lose on eBay for Snap-On since they are guaranteed anyway. If you break it just take it to a truck and have the guts swapped out. GD Edited July 27, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 It was a 1/2 inch but craftsman. This is the 1st craftsman wrench ive had that has broken. I can get a new one for free but i might just pick up that tool for future use. Thanks for the info GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Txakura Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 (edited) is there anywhere close by that can break them loose for you, clean and lube the threads and put them back on safe/good enough to get home? those would be a mother by hand Edited July 27, 2009 by Txakura Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 27, 2009 Author Share Posted July 27, 2009 McBrat was my local guy but hes going through a move so im not going to bother him about it. I think i can find someone with an impact to break them loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 Typically you can get those nuts off with a breaker bar and a big hammer. Wear a glove and hit the breaker bar close to the neck. Just keep at it - it will take some time. It's a poor man's impact. But it does work. Hell I removed one the other day with a Harbor Freight 1/2" ratchet handle with the whole spindle off the car! I just kept hitting it and it eventually spun off. Took about 10 minutes. I was being lazy and didn't want to turn on the compressor GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted July 27, 2009 Share Posted July 27, 2009 any updates on this. 5 minutes, thats not bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 oh boy.... Ok so when it comes to bleeding, do whats known as a gravity bleed. Once you get the brakes together, crack the bleeder screws and leave them open until fluid starts to drip out of them. THEN do the one man bleeder system like what was mentioned before. The gravity bleeding helps get rid of most of the bleeding process which is nice. Remember, you'll have to bleed all four corners out because Subaru has the crisscross style of braking instead of the generic front to rear systems. One way to tell the right and left calipers apart is the bleeder screw will be above the banjo bolt for the brake line. just hold the caliper up in the position is would be mounted on the car and if the bleeder is higher then the banjo bolt on the caliper, then that'll determine what side it goes on. For removal of the axle nuts, use some sort of penetrating lube (not WD-40 because its not a penetrant), soak it for a couple minutes, take a 36mm socket, put it on a 1/2" breaker bar, get a chunk of pipe (also known as a cheater pipe) and break it loose. I'll put my breaker bar and cheater pipe parallel to the ground and put my foot on it, then give it a quick bounce. I've never had an issue doing it that way and I'm a 140lbs wet on a good day if I'm lucky:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Ok update. After my big wrench broke i was done that day. But i did change out my cap and rotor. Put in and rewired a new blower motor. And managed to fasten my battery back down so it wouldnt roll around in the engine bay. As far as the brakes go im done for this weekend. Ive got a friend with a huge garage full of tools and (AIR TOOLS) in case i run into any more problems with this darn thing. I will have a buddy then to help me bleed the brakes. Hopefully the calipers arent siezed from beinging without fluid. Well See. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudduck Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Ok so when it comes to bleeding, do whats known as a gravity bleedFor removal of the axle nuts, use some sort of penetrating lube (not WD-40 because its not a penetrant), soak it for a couple minutes, take a 36mm socket, put it on a 1/2" breaker bar, get a chunk of pipe (also known as a cheater pipe) and break it loose. I'll put my breaker bar and cheater pipe parallel to the ground and put my foot on it, then give it a quick bounce. I've never had an issue doing it that way and I'm a 140lbs wet on a good day if I'm lucky:rolleyes: This is how I have removed stubbern axle nuts, exept I'm around 40 or 50 pounds heavier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 Well im heavier then both of you and me and my 5 ft yakama roof rack cheater bar couldnt break it either. So darn, but dont worry itll work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 Well im heavier then both of you and me and my 5 ft yakama roof rack cheater bar couldnt break it either. So darn, but dont worry itll work. I use my Snap-On 1/2" breaker bar and a piece of pipe from a chain link fence:grin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opelsuby Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 I have noticed that the quality of the craftsman line has gone down hill. others I have talked to have echoed this as well. I recommed the PB Blaster then whack it a couple of times with a hammer and let it sit. I also use a 12volt impact gun with an adapter alot. They are meant for lug nuts but I use for alot of stuff. Plug in to cig lighter an wallah! Ther are two diff styles and both run about 50.00 max on evilbay. One style spins up to max rpms then engages the clutch. This style can break your wirst if you do it with non-dominant hand, one-handed and too many margueritas. The other spins almost immediately. Both come in nice little ballistic plastic carrying cases. I never go anywhere without them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted July 31, 2009 Author Share Posted July 31, 2009 Ok well see where this goes tomorrow. Going over to my buddys house with a garage full of tools and a impact gun. Whose laughing now subaru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Abides Posted August 2, 2009 Author Share Posted August 2, 2009 Wow who ever said the rear disc brake swap was easy. Actually it wasnt to bad but the brake lines from the calipers werent cooperating so they got replaced. Busted a bolt off the backing plate. Bleed them real good with the 2 man system. There wasnt to much air in the system but my friend commented on how much mud is in my brake system. I was like, its not suspost to be brown lol. All is good now. Definately needed new brakes. I was down to the metal on all 4 shoes for the rear brakes, i dont even think it was grabbing anymore. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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