slideshow86 Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 I dont know much about carbs. When doing some research on weber conversions alot of people recomend advancing your timing a bit. An ea81 calls for 8 btdc @ 700 rpm's I am running, -86 Ea81 Hydro lifter eng -Some half assed piece together header from the PO thats 1.75" to the cat, 2" from the cat back to high flow muffler -No egr system ( all have block off plates) -All emissions stuff is gone (only thing pulling vacuum is dizzy and heater stuff) -Msd coil -Vac advance works on dizzy -32/36 dgev with " Baseline " jetting for Ea81 -Idle screw is 1 turn in -Mixture screw is either 1.5 or 2 turns out. (doesnt make much difference) -ngk plugs with .050 gap. -92 octane LET ME START WITH, this is compiled from what I have found others running with success. You may have read my thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102446 Well I started at 8 btdc and slowly made my way up to 14 btdc. It seems almost "road worthy" at 14 btdc but am I hurting anything? I dont hear any pinging ( headed down to pick her up after having her new exhaust fitted in 15 mins so it will be much quieter and I may hear somthing then). What are you running? Whats safe? *NOTES* -at 8 btdc it back fires alot on decel and accelerates VERRRRY slowly, Not road worthy slow.... - At 10 btdc, back fires alot still - At 12 btdc, back fires less - At 14 btdc it doesnt backfire any more (this was also with OUT RUNNING a muffler?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 i know someone who ran with 20 degree advance-he had to swap a different engine in no time. We were at the iowa campout this summer, and we couldnt figure out what would have blown his engine, til he said 20 degrees and about 6000 rpm ......yeah dont do that. My avitar pic sports your lift......i bought it from Greenly??? yay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Im running mine at around 10 or 11. You can advance it but not crazy. If your not hearing any pinging you "should" be ok but i would turn it back a bit just to be a bit more on the safe side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 If it's not road worthy at 8 degrees, then something is very wrong. Put it back to 8 and start troubleshooting. You shouldn't be running premium gas - that will not help you properly adjust the timing and it's more expensive without giving you any advantages. You should always run the lowest octane that your engine will tollerate without pre-detonation. As you don't have a turbo, that means 87. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 I guess its time to do a compression test. I know the -Cap, rotor, plugs and wires are new -The carb is clean and the Jets are in the correct order. -Fuel filters are new -Heads and valves were just checked -Car idles like a champ and runs like a dog... I need to -Buy a fuel pressure guage -Buy a compression tester -Borrow my friends wideband -Start all over again.. Any suggestions? This game sucks...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 maybe the choke is closing when it heats up? maybe the choke wire is not hooked up. Check that first, make sure that voltage is going to choke and its actually opening the choke not closing it when your car warms up, If you have no voltage to the choke wire, it will not open the choke If there is voltage it should open the choke, not close it. some mechanisms might be reversed and it could close the choke when it warms up. thats an easy fix. let me know if you need help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 21, 2009 Share Posted August 21, 2009 Does it act lean or rich when you floor it? Remember that you will always feel a lean condition more than a rich one. Lean will be anything from a light surge to a violent jerking. Rich will just be anything from a nagging power loss to black smoke and refusing to gain RPM's. Try "reading" the plugs. What color are they? - if you have a decent camera and can take a picture of all 4 of them at a nice resolution perhaps we could help read them. It sounds rich from your description - which could be high fuel pressure or a maladjusted float (among a lot of other things - but given you have checked the jets already, etc). The jets are only half the equation - the other half is the fuel level in the bowl - unless it is dead on the jets will not get the proper fuel supply. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) Well I guess I should get my friggin ducks in line before I try to start knocking them down. When I first started, my fuel was pretty much trickling in the (eng bay) fuel filter, I always suspected fuel delivery was my issue. After alot of test runs and swapping the jetting around was when I pulled the plugs for the first time. They were just on the white side of the tan that would be desired. Which tells me that it was lean... I swapped the jetting around and made a bunch of test runs. But was still having the hesitation issue. It wasnt untill I -I refitted the exhaust and added a cheap muffler. -I re-timed it to 8 btdc -I backed off the mixture screw from 2x turns out to 1.5 turns out. When she started to actually move when I push on the throttle it actually seems acceptable now. I cant believe it was that bad with no muffler? Whoda thunk it? I will pull the plugs and clean them up and take a 30 min drive or so and check the plugs again. At that point ill take a picture and post them.... Hopefully by then ill have my friends wideband. Also- glancing up at my (eng bay) fuel filter, I notice it is topped off full. Since buying the car and all the test runs over a year and I have never seen it topped off full. So hopefully that solved some lean issues? I just did another back yard alignment so Ill grab the gps (for more accurate speed reading) and take another test run. Edited August 21, 2009 by slideshow86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Share Posted August 21, 2009 -maybe the choke is closing when it heats up? Unsure, Havent pulled the filter after a test run. Most times by that point Im scratching my head.... -maybe the choke wire is not hooked up. Yes it is -voltage is going to choke?14v -and its actually opening the choke not closing it when your car warms up? It is working like it should. Opens and closes when it needs to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenley Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 My avitar pic sports your lift......i bought it from Greenly??? yay say hwhat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 I took some pictures today Please if you see anything wrong in any of the pictures point it out. I really dont have anything to reference it to.. This is the beast in question Here is carb #2 (the one that looks like a pos) Now on the back side of the carb is this thing. It was a year ago when I rebuilt the clean/nice looking carb I had and I dont remember this looking soo much like it was missing somthing? It just doenst look right.... Here are the sparkplugs after I swapped the jetting around Plug #1 Plug #2 Plug #3 Plug #4 Heres my new ghetto exhaust. Only good thing about it is it is not the lowest point AND it fixed A LOT of my issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 Plugs look good - might be a bit of oil on that #2 cylinder - valve stem seals perhaps. But nothing to worry about really. The carb looks fine - that boss on the back is for a second accelerator pump - they are not equipped with them in progressive linkage format - that is just a casting artifact that isn't used on your's. You need to change the PCV a bit - the line between the PCV valve/drivers side valve cover and the T going into the filter needs to be reduced to 1/4" ID - that is a vacuum breaker line that should only be large enough to prevent the PCV valve from sucking oil out of the drivers side valve cover but not large enough to interrupt the directional flow through the crankcase. With all the lines the same size like that you won't get any flow through the crankcase. Otherwise I don't see many issues. You have the HH disconnected so you should add a clutch fork return spring to keep from wearing out the TO bearing..... And there's a chance you could damage the ignitor in the disty with that hot MSD coil. It's not neccesary and the stock coil's are amazingly reliable. You gain nothing but the potential for failure using that coil. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenley Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 You need to change the PCV a bit - the line between the PCV valve/drivers side valve cover and the T going into the filter needs to be reduced to 1/4" ID - that is a vacuum breaker line that should only be large enough to prevent the PCV valve from sucking oil out of the drivers side valve cover but not large enough to interrupt the directional flow through the crankcase. With all the lines the same size like that you won't get any flow through the crankcase. GD GD, are you saying that the way he has his PCV routed can cause the issue at hand, or is it just a matter of the right way to set it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 GD, are you saying that the way he has his PCV routed can cause the issue at hand,or is it just a matter of the right way to set it up. No - I don't think it's causing his issue. But it could be a problem down the line. It is, as you say, a matter of the "right way"...... although technically it's not even a "PCV" system right now as there is no positive flow through the crankcase with it using equally sized lines on either side of the engine like that. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 22, 2009 Author Share Posted August 22, 2009 (edited) might be a bit of oil on that #2 cylinder - valve stem seals perhaps. But nothing to worry about really. I was "><" this close to changing them out, I was just in a hurry and figured a little smoking on start up wouldnt hurt too much for now. I just wanted to know if I could stand the power output from ea81 as I just cant afford an ej swap right now. The carb looks fine - that boss on the back is for a second accelerator pump - they are not equipped with them in progressive linkage format - that is just a casting artifact that isn't used on your's.Sweet, Thats what I thought, I noticed there are alot of different things/set ups for these carbs for MANY different applications, I just want to make sure as alot of the people I ask for help always say " well your missing somthing there, you should get that fixed first" You need to change the PCV a bit - the line between the PCV valve/drivers side valve cover and the T going into the filter needs to be reduced to 1/4" ID - that is a vacuum breaker line that should only be large enough to prevent the PCV valve from sucking oil out of the drivers side valve cover but not large enough to interrupt the directional flow through the crankcase. With all the lines the same size like that you won't get any flow through the crankcase.I know I know, I just found your post about using the ea71 tapered "cone" filter or somthing and the cool 5/8"x5/8"x1/4" T that they use to make it soo clean. I just dont konw where to get it yet.... I was also thining of taking a smaller 3/8th hose or even 1/4 in if it fits and slidding it INSIDE the 5/8th hose going to the drivers side valve cover. Do you think it would change the "area" inside the tube to restrict the airflow enough? Just a though for now? Otherwise I don't see many issues. You have the HH disconnected so you should add a clutch fork return spring to keep from wearing out the TO bearing..... Thanks I didnt think of that I have located some of my vibrations too.... When I squeeze the 4wd linkage and drive faster than 3k rpm's, it feels like alot of the vibes dont happen. If i dont hold it, it gets bad chassis vibrations? And there's a chance you could damage the ignitor in the disty with that hot MSD coil. It's not neccesary and the stock coil's are amazingly reliable. You gain nothing but the potential for failure using that coil. Thanks for the heads up, I have a lifetime warranty on my dizzy on my other car and it could use the MSD more than the brat. I just wanted to replace things things that would origionally have a symptom of " running on 3 cyls, as origionally it was running on 3. Now I know its not an issue, I can swap it out for the stock one. Thanks soo much for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Edited August 22, 2009 by slideshow86 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 22, 2009 Share Posted August 22, 2009 I know I know, I just found your post about using the ea71 tapered "cone" filter or somthing and the cool 5/8"x5/8"x1/4" T that they use to make it soo clean. I just dont konw where to get it yet.... I was also thining of taking a smaller 3/8th hose or even 1/4 in if it fits and slidding it INSIDE the 5/8th hose going to the drivers side valve cover. Do you think it would change the "area" inside the tube to restrict the airflow enough? Just a though for now? Link to this thread? I need to redo my setup as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 I know I know, I just found your post about using the ea71 tapered "cone" filter or somthing and the cool 5/8"x5/8"x1/4" T that they use to make it soo clean. I just dont konw where to get it yet.... I was also thining of taking a smaller 3/8th hose or even 1/4 in if it fits and slidding it INSIDE the 5/8th hose going to the drivers side valve cover. Do you think it would change the "area" inside the tube to restrict the airflow enough? Just a though for now? Link to this thread? I need to redo my setup as well. No I cant find it.. GD could you dig it up please... I remember it was from 04... Also, I cant find any ea71's. Is there any way we can find a way to fix this with aftermarket parts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slideshow86 Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Calling all with webers. How is your pcv system set up.... Is my "causing damage"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Here's the one I posted pictures in of the PCV setup: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99600 Will it cause damage? Eventually you will eat the bearing surfaces inside the engine if you don't get rid of the acidic exhaust blow-by. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hatchsub Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Haha i never ended up seeing the reply to that thread but i remember it. I was thinking that i was going to be the starter of that thread... Thanks for the pic GD. Im going to see if i can get John to run the part # on it rather than try to find one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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