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1988 Loyale, coolant leak when warm


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Hi, totally new here so please forgive me my lack of knowledge.

 

I JUST got a 1988 Loyale, 5 speed manual with 4wd and turbo. I guess that is an ea82 engine?

 

Anyway, I just got the car in exchange for painting my brothers house in Bend Oregon(3500 feet, 90 degree high desert) and when I was done, drove the approximately 450 miles straight to SF(sea level and 60 degrees) in about 9 hours. Car ran great, stayed cool, no smoke, no knocks no problems (no ac)Nothing I noticed during that mostly highway drive anyway.. Just had an oil change and fluid top off and I had to cut about 1 inch off the hose that exits the radiator and goes to the reservoir, it was cracked and leaking where it fit on. That is not where this leak is.

 

 

Last night I parked. This morning I turned the car on, pulled into the street and as I took a left turn it started to smoke. I could tell from the smell it was coolant, pulled off into a gas station, left it running and could see the coolant dripping under the car relatively fast.

 

When the car is off/cool it does not leak.

 

The next time I started the car it didn't leak until it warmed up to the normal running temp(judging from the gauge)

When it did begin to leak the first spot that I could see it was behind one of the accessories on the belt train.

I have a Chilton Guide but I have not yet found the part that tells me what the things run on the belts are or where all the radiator hoses are supposed to hook up. There is the top wheel for the alternator, to the right is my (unhooked) AC, then down below is a wheel that also has a rod that runs the radiator fan across from it. The first place I can spot the leak is right behind this bottom wheel, then down the case and it drips there or off a pan behind some exhaust(?) piping.

 

 

Ideas? good exploded diagrams of the engine? front to back? or a clearly labeled picture set of the outer appearance? I have done some searching here and will continue to do so.. what info would help?

 

-David

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from checking some of the threads linked at the bottom of the page after i posted this(what a cool function!) I would like to add that it starts fine and only smoked the one time, heading uphill, that I am sure coolant got on something hot. When I was just running the car on the side of the street to heat it up/check it out, there was no further smoking or smell. seems like that may matter?

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You have done an excelent job of explaining your problem and what you are seeing - the pulley that you are refering to (the one that also runs the fan) is, in fact, the water pump. It sounds like you have classic syptoms of a water pump seal failure - unfortunately that does mean you will have to replace the pump. Given the location of the pump and what must be done to access it, it is generally best if the maintenance history is unknown or questionable to replace the timing belt, tensioners, idler, cam and crank seals, and the water pump + bypass hose all at the same time. It's also a good idea to remove and inspect the oil pump and reseal it while you are in there. All of these things are ONLY accesible once the timing belt and covers are removed so it is best to do everything and be sure you will have a trouble free 50,000 miles till the next belt change.

 

GD

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Thank you, that is the feeling I was beginning to get too. Now I have to ask, how hard do you think it would be to repair myself vs. is this something to get done at a shop/the cost of that?

 

I have about 4 years of two-stroke performance racing, tuning and building so I am not clueless about wrenching on things BUT I have only done oil changes and spark plug type car work as this is the first car I have had in about 5 years.

 

-DW

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There is nothing particularly challenging about the job - the thing that gives people the most trouble is getting the timing belts on correctly. Unlike almost all other engines out there, the EA82 uses two seperate timing belts. The engine is non-interferance though so the most that will happen is not running at all or running incorrectly.

 

There are some good walk-through's of the procedure around here - do a search for EA82 timing belt guide or procedure, etc.

 

Pull the radiator to get room to work on the front of the engine. It is not uncommon for the outer belt cover bolts to be frozen in their capture nuts and for them to spin in the plastic - many of us just ditch the covers as they are more of a pain then they are worth.

 

Sadly, with an EA82, unless you do the maintenance yourself - the price of having a t-belt/water pump job done at a shop is usually more than the value of the car. Probably somewhere in the neighborhood of $500 to $750.

 

GD

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If you would like a great step-by-step write up on how to do the T-belts, Oil pump, Cam seals, water pump ect. Just type in Trashwagon.com then click "Miles Subarus" then you'll see "Service and repair" click that your good to go, Miles Fox did these write ups and they are the best I've seen, also have pictures on them for better guidence.

 

Hope this helps you :)

 

PS: MIlesFox is a member on here, but he hasn't been around in a while. He knows the EA82 insanly complete, front to back.. Also GD is another best bet, he knows what he speaks of :)

 

-Tom

Edited by TheLoyale
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If you would like a great step-by-step write up on how to do the T-belts, Oil pump, Cam seals, water pump ect. Just type in Trashwagon.com I think it is. Miles Fox did these write ups and they are the best I've seen, also have pictures on them for better guidence.

 

Hope this helps you :)

 

PS: MIlesFox is a member on here, but he hasn't been around in a while. He knows the EA82 insanly complete, front to back.. Also GD is another best bet, he knows what he speaks of :)

 

-Tom

I totally agree.

Miles is an expert on ea82 subarus and the guides on his website were right on the money.

I have done a timing belt,water pump and complete engine change on my 90 loyale with his guides.

Good luck.

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EA82's are a damn sight easier to work on than any transverse engine setup you could conjur up, but still a royal pain in comparison to the EA81.... no timing belts - I can change a water pump in 15 minutes. Try that with an EA82 :rolleyes:

 

The problem is that there aren't many shops around that still have people with the knowledge to work on them, and so there's a lot of sub-standard timing belt jobs done anymore. That and people cheap out on the parts and skip replacing items that really need to be replaced (water pump when you are doing t-belts, etc) - and you end up with the situation you are in now. I got a 94 legacy a while back on the cheap because of the exact same situation - water pump failure due to an improper 120k service.

 

Figure on spending about $200 in parts to get it back up to snuff. You should also replace all the radiator hoses, and the heater core hoses since you are doing the bypass hose anyway. Flush the radiator and heater core and replace the coolant while you are at it - EA82 cooling systems were not designed with a lot of overhead capacity wise and it is neccesary to keep them in top condition to prevent overheating and potential head gasket failure.

 

GD

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