GeneralDisorder Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 (edited) I'm looking at doing a HG on a 99 Forester with the phase II 2.5 What is the parts cost associated with the job? Probably just doing HG's as the engine has been maintained at the dealer and is not currently in need of a complete t-belt job. Anything I should definitely replace while I'm in there with the HG's? Who here also replaces the bolts? Experiences with/without replacing them? Thanks GD Edited August 31, 2009 by GeneralDisorder Mistaken on engine designation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 Search a little. HG's (Suby). Crank and cam seals(Suby), idlers, Oil pump Oring and check the screws, WP, coolant, oil & filter, and I do air and fuel while I'm at it. If it's yucky I send the rad out to be flushed and pressure tested. Sometimes valve cover gaskets. HG's around 80 bucks (IIR). cam/crank seals under 10 bucks each = 30. VC I forget. WP 55 Dealer WP gasket 4 Coolant 10 Plugs 8 TB (I forget) 30-50? for aftermarket Accessory belts 20-25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 So rough estimate I can figure it will come in under $200 in parts. Sounds good. Thanks. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 29, 2009 Share Posted August 29, 2009 99 Forester should be a Phase II EJ25. Not much in parts other than the headgasket and typical timing job associated stuff which Dave outlined if you choose to do any of that. Minimum - headgaskets, valve cover gaskets (i guess those aren't required but i'd do them), antifreeze, hose clamps - so yeah $200 will cover that. Add timing associated stuff if applicable like Dave mentioned. Might need some shims if you're adjusting the valves too. Clean the radiator if any oil/coolant mixing which is unlikely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 29, 2009 Author Share Posted August 29, 2009 Clean the radiator if any oil/coolant mixing which is unlikely. The owner is saying that the dealer quoted a new radiator. I wonder if that's a CYA thing when replacing the head gaskets? I know often in the machinery I work on we quote new cooler's as it's tough to clean them and it's good insurance. I guess I'll see if/when I do the job. It's looking likely that I'm going to buy the car for around $1750. Needs the HG's, radiator and a front axle. Think I should be able to resale it for a decent profit after all that? KBB says $4250 on private party. I was thinking of flipping it for $3300 - $3500 after making the neccesary repairs. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 Yeah you can flip it. Price seems a bit high, but I find it good to work backwards and make sure you're comfortable which sounds like you are. Around here I'd think I could get $4,000 depending on condition and mileage. $3,300 sounds really low. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 I do these frequently. If they have a good body that is. My basic math is this. Take KBB TRADE IN VALUE average condition. Subtract 1,500 (for the HG, timing belt, seals, baflle plate, head gaskets, plugs, filters, fluids, rad flush, heads surfaced/checked/cleaned you get the idea. If a 5 speed clutch kit & flywheel resurfaced - another 300. Iv'e also started budgeting a slave cylinder - probably 8 of the last 10 standards I've done have needed a slave shortly after so now I just do them as part of this project. 500 for me (that's where I start but there are ALWAYS surprises like torque bind, filler tubes, whatever). That's how I start to work backwards. Hey - if I'm not gonna make any money why take the risk? The person you're buying the car off of knows all the issues - you don't. Figure towing, fees, something for havng the cash tied up and arrive at a number. If the car is KBB fair trade in of 4k - 1,500 - 500 - 300(stick) the most I'd pay is 2k. But more like closer to 1k depending on obvious things - like tires, body, etc. I almost think it's funny when folks think I should pay them the Private Party value of the car minus whatever they were quoted for the HG job. Like I want to take the gamble, and tie up the money, and discover all the things they already know are wrong with the car for free. I'm a nice guy - but I need a better deal than that. I try and do one a week if other things don't have me tied up (like they currently do) I have one setting here to do and another one paid for 3 weeks ago that I haven't picked up since I'm outta room. I have a stash of parts (kept inside) and several engines for parts and several good engines. I lack outside space (want to keep the neighbors happy). You learn to have a good idea of what to save and what not to. I've developed a clientelle with probably 80% of what I sell going to folks I've already sold to or their friends. Ironicaly currently I have some cheap ones and have a few requests for the "redone" ones in the 4-5k range. I enjoy doing it but you gotta go into it with a buffer to make money. And don't forget you'll probably be waiting for a month on the title before being able to resell it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 99 Forester should be a Phase II EJ25. This. Can you confirm that it does have the SOHC 2.5 in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 30, 2009 Author Share Posted August 30, 2009 This one is an auto, so no clutch repair cost's. It's been maintained exclusively by the dealer and the current dealer quote for repairs sits at $3500 (and as we all know that's mostly labor). Tires are about 1 year old, cosmetically clean, female driver - non-smoker, etc. I don't forsee many issues - here in OR it's kosher to buy and resell a vehicle without registering it - there are multiple reassignments on the title and as long as I have the bill-of-sale I'm good to drive it for a short time. Interesting system we have here but it seems to work. That's why I'm willing to go as high as I am and hopefully make a quick sale and get out from under it. Anyway - no one replaces the head bolts I take it? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 30, 2009 Share Posted August 30, 2009 No one replaces the head bolts. I have a template that I keep them in so they go back into the same holes. They often creak when getting close to tight no matter how well lubed so don't panic. I also have another template that I lay on the floor for the torqueing sequence so it is easy to follow. Just make sure no rod knock. Worst Suby experience I ever had was 3 engines into a 99 Forester to get a good one. One engine I pulled TWICE. My first experience with the SOHC 2.5 wasn't pleasant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 31, 2009 Author Share Posted August 31, 2009 Got it for $1500 So we had some really freakin hot weather a few weeks back - 106 at one point. Durring that the radiator burst at the upper tank seam. Ever seen that before? I'm wondering if a head gasket completely went on the poor thing. I'm going to try replacing the radiator and driving it the 15 miles back to my garage. What are my chances? Car looks nice - a few rock chips on the hood. New Toyo tires. All receipts. A/C works, CD player, recently detailed, etc. I think I'll do alright assuming I don't have to buy an engine for it . It's a nice looking ride and they have taken good care of it. Lots and LOTS of reciepts from the dealership. I think it will serve someone well. She said she thought the HG's had been done at one point - I'll have to go through the reciepts and look.... the phase II's go through them that fast? GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Durania Posted August 31, 2009 Share Posted August 31, 2009 Phase II's shouldnt be going through them that fast. From what I know, the I's were the ones that developed the internal leaks that blew a lot. The II's on the other hand, developed external leaks but once replaced were good to go. My Subaru mechanic told me that the problem is people put them on way too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.