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My EJ22T swap.......and a few issues


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104 replies to this topic

#1 Turbone

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 06:31 PM

I've got it running, altho its not doing what it should be.
First of all, the idle. It starts at 1k and rises to 2k and holds there.
Should I use the set screws on the TB to bring it down, or what?

Second issue, charging system.
Not sure if I have a bad alt or what, but its not putting out anything close to a charge. I put my meter on it and it shows 11.50v and I missed something in my wiring splice as all my idiot lights are lit.

Thirdly is the temp. What do these engines normally run at? My gauge is showing 200deg, which is quite a bit higher than my EA82T ran. I had to use the thermostat that was originally on it and I dont think its opening :-\

Fourth issue is driveability. When I give it the gas, it falls on its face. I'm using the stock EA fuel pump, so I wonder if this is the problem

And last but not least......I hate doing builds on a budget :rolleyes:

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Stats:
89 RX with fulltime D/R tranny/diff lock. Tranny adapter from Rgyver.
Using XT6 flywheel drilled out to mate to EJ engine.
EJ22T from wrecking yard in Yakima.
EJ harness from outside sources.

Edited by Turbone, 21 April 2010 - 04:22 PM.


#2 Numbchux

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Posted 06 April 2010 - 10:26 PM

awesome! looks like a clean swap, love the video....especially the last few seconds :banana:

why did you pull the dash, though? yikes!


alright,
1: the set screw probably won't effect the idle that much, it's just there to adjust the TPS calibration. it really doesn't open the plate almost at all, unless it's totally cranked down. Does it stay at 2k even once it's warm? that's not an impossible number for warm-up, but if it isn't coming down, that's not right. Could just be a sticking IAC valve. CEL codes? did it do that in the donor car?

2: check for power at the yellow wire. this should get a switched 12v for the VR. the black wire will be grounded if the yellow has power and the alt isn't charging (this is what controls the idiot lights). if these are correct, you might want to try a new alt (or having this one tested).

3: stock tstat is 180, IIRC. 200 isn't impossible if it's loaded, but not much more. I'd throw a new tstat at it.

4: EA82/t pump is rated for 95lph at 61-71psi, EJ22e for 80lph at 36psi, and EJ22t for 150lph @ 43psi. So, yea, you're probably getting plenty of pressure, so it's working fine when not under load, but as soon as you're opening the taps, there just isn't enough there.....

#3 Turbone

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 08:36 AM

I have no idea how it ran in the donor car, I just know it had good compression and ran "ok". Havent checked for codes, I hope I have that hooked up correctly.

Check which yellow wire? I have a few. You talking about the wires coming from the alt? I tied into the EA wiring for the alt and the yellow wire isnt hooked up. Maybe this is my problem.

I may have a boost leak. I have good vac on my boost gauge, its just when accelerating that it cuts out.

#4 Numbchux

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 09:40 AM

Check which yellow wire? I have a few. You talking about the wires coming from the alt? I tied into the EA wiring for the alt and the yellow wire isnt hooked up. Maybe this is my problem.


sorry, I was kinda vague. I was just thinking about the wires at the EJ alt. and yea, if that's not hooked up, that's your problem. it needs a switched power source, doesn't NEED to be from anywhere special, although you might want to get your reference somewhere in the engine harness to make sure that stays at a nice comfortable voltage. in stock form, it ties into the ignition coil and a couple other power sources (fuel pump relay?).

your idle problem might improve once the alternator is working. if things are getting low voltage, they may not work right.


checking for leaks isn't a bad idea....but your symptoms do sound like fuel pump. the EA82t pump pushes a fraction of the volume compared to the EJ22t one.

#5 Gloyale

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 09:42 AM

I went through hell with charging on my last swap.

In the end, I did not hook up the EA wiring at all.

I ran the B/W wire from the EJ harness to the wire for the charge light.

And the Yellow wire from the alt get's switched volts from a fused source.


*note about yellow wire:

that wire has a diode on it. after the diode, it is green wire, two of them. One goes to the ECU, and the other goes to the IG. relay trigger. If you cut out the diode, and supply power straigh to the green wires, the car will still run, but the ALT won't get it's signal volts.

So you need to make the connection to that wire before the diode.

#6 Turbone

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Posted 07 April 2010 - 10:59 AM

I went through hell with charging on my last swap.

In the end, I did not hook up the EA wiring at all.

I ran the B/W wire from the EJ harness to the wire for the charge light.

And the Yellow wire from the alt get's switched volts from a fused source.


*note about yellow wire:

that wire has a diode on it. after the diode, it is green wire, two of them. One goes to the ECU, and the other goes to the IG. relay trigger. If you cut out the diode, and supply power straigh to the green wires, the car will still run, but the ALT won't get it's signal volts.

So you need to make the connection to that wire before the diode.


Snap, my harness for some reason had the alt circuit removed. Thats why I'm using the EA wiring. I have another harness, maybe I can just remove that circuit and splice it in. Or try and connect the yellow to a switched source and keep my fingers crossed.
Once I get that straightened out, I'll see what I can do about the stumble issue. I can accel ok if I dont go hard on the gas, or with no load. I need to check my hoses from the turbo to IC to TB and make sure theres no leaks.
Right now I'm running without a O2 sensor. Would this possibly cause this?
Thanks for all the suggestions.

#7 Turbone

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:07 AM

Got the charging issue fixed, but it still runs at 2k when its warmed up. I have a O2 sensor on the way and I'll be going over the intake system today to check for boost leaks etc. I also need to make sure ALL the grounds are connected.

I'm really chomping at the bit to drive this. The 2 runs I took around the block felt good, even with it running like crap and no exhaust hooked up.

#8 Legacy777

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:37 AM

Normal operating temp for these cars with stock fans are 190-203.

ECU kicks fans on at 203 deg F and turns fans off at 190 deg F.

The t-stat will keep the lower end of temp no less than around 180-181 deg F.

If the t-stat was old, I would recommend replacing it. Also, these engines have a second 1-wire temp sensor that hooks up to the dash gauge. So maybe it's bad or the calibration is different.

As for the high idle, on top of the throttle body, does it have a big needle valve screw?
http://main.experien...baru/images/TB/

If so, turn that in. I wouldn't mess with the set stop screws on the side of the throttle body.

If at all possible, I'd recommend trying to get this scan tool to work so you can verify all the ECU parameters. Things like the ECU MT/AT ident pin and neutral switch can sometimes play into some of the oddities when doing swaps.
http://bbs.legacycen...pic.php?t=16219

#9 Turbone

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Posted 09 April 2010 - 11:48 AM

I have a aftermarket sending unit and gauge for temp. Right now I only have one fan and it runs continuously. It seems to cool off when moving, but I will replace the t-stat. And find another fan. I have to mount it in front and it needs to be pretty small to fit (10in).
It does have the needle valve screw on top and I already turned that all the way in. I need to button up some wiring and then I'll try the scan tool, thanks.

#10 Legacy777

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 05:05 PM

Hmmm....How old is the ECU coolant temp sensor?

#11 Turbone

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 08:51 PM

Heck if I know, it could be the original......133k?
I took my entire intake apart today to make sure I didnt have any boost leaks.
When I pulled the IC off and out, it drained about 1/4qrt of oil :eek:
When I blew the rings on the EA82T, it pumped oil up thru the system...including the IC. Not sure if that was a problem or, I dont really tink so.
Is the ECU coolant sensor on the back of the intake, next to the temp sender?

#12 Numbchux

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Posted 11 April 2010 - 09:17 PM

both temp sensors are on the coolant bridge. one for the gauge, one for the ECU. I think the ECU is the 2-wire one. That's not a bad idea, if the ECU isn't sure how warm the engine is, it could effect your idle and such.

#13 Turbone

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 07:48 AM

Thats not a common failure item, is it?
But I can swap it out for a spare I have to check.
That plastic vent line that goes from the drivers side rear to pass side front, with a T to the block right behind the alt? You know the one, that if you look funny at it, it breaks? Mine was broke at the T when I got the engine and I epoxied it. I re-checked it thinking it might have cracked again, sure enough it didnt hold. I used a fast setting epoxy this time and it works.
But in the process of removing the alt to work on it, I broke my custom oil sender fitting (brass) :-\
So today I need to replace that so I can test fixes I did last night.
Drove it around the block again last night and if I get on the gas easy it pulls real good. I cant wait to get the bugs out and really drive it.

#14 Legacy777

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Posted 12 April 2010 - 11:23 AM

Yeah, I'd highly recommend replacing the coolant temp sensor. It is the two wire sensor. They're only about $20 new and may not throw a code. So if you have a spare and it seems to help, I'd probably suggest buying a new one as they can wear out and the response slows to where it can cause some of the odd issues you are having.

#15 Turbone

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:03 AM

Well, the spare sensor I thought I had was on the block I traded to Jerry. So now I need to go buy one. Heres whats going on while running.

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I'm not letting off the gas, its crapping out as soon as it hits positive pressure.

#16 bheinen74

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:25 AM

does it run a little better on a cold engine, and then get worse as it warms up?

pull the covers and check the "correct" timing marks on both the cam sprockets, and the cranks gear.....
sure seems like a timing issue...which i have seen before firsthand.

My 92SS i bought and it just would not rev past 3500 no matter what. It coughed and sputtered above 2000. It also had a shake to it at idle, until the timing was checked, and then corrected... then it ran like a champ

Edited by bheinen74, 13 April 2010 - 08:41 AM.


#17 Turbone

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 09:14 AM

It runs rough till warmed up.
I triple checked the timing belt before I installed the engine. Plus it runs ok until you try and give it more gas, except for the idle issue. It does drop to 1500 when it gets to op temp.
I also put a timing light on it and its dead on at 18deg and advances with the throttle.
I'm picking up a CTS this morning (thanks Briggs) and I'll go from there.
I did spray brake cleaner all over the hoses, looking for vac leaks but didnt find any.

#18 Qman

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 03:45 PM

Check all of your O2 sensor plugs/connections. Make sure the plugs are all connected and pushed all the way in.

#19 Subarutex

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 04:03 PM

What fuel pump are you running?

#20 Numbchux

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 05:26 PM

my money is on fuel pump. the EA82t pump is about 2/3 the volume of the EJ22t one.....not enough. as soon as it gets into boost, and really opens up those injectors, the pressure drops, and takes a minute to catch up.

#21 Turbone

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 05:58 PM

Check all of your O2 sensor plugs/connections. Make sure the plugs are all connected and pushed all the way in.


I think I mentioned earlier that I have no 02 atm. I have one on the way and the hole is plugged.

What fuel pump are you running?


my money is on fuel pump. the EA82t pump is about 2/3 the volume of the EJ22t one.....not enough. as soon as it gets into boost, and really opens up those injectors, the pressure drops, and takes a minute to catch up.


Still running the EA82T FP, a Walbro inline 225lph FP is not cheap :-\
I cant even use a stock EJ pump because its a in tank model :-\
I did install a new CTS today. No changes at all :-\

#22 Qman

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 07:00 PM

O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2 O2

Without it you have nothing to tell the ECU how to run the mixture.

#23 Turbone

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:03 PM

Yeah yeah yeah yeah yeah

It was shipped yesterday :rolleyes:

#24 bheinen74

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:08 PM

ej22t can run and not even know the O2 is unplugged though, so i dont think thats it.
it will only get about 16mpg unplugged though, and will get about 23mpg with it plugged in. Not the kind of thing your video shows on lack of RPM ability-which points to the MAF, or TIMING even thought you checked it. What marks did you check the timing with..

#25 Turbone

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Posted 13 April 2010 - 08:15 PM

I just cleaned the MAF and changed it out it for another one I had.
I used the timing marks on the front pulley because I'm using a lightened XT6 flywheel that you cant see the marks on.




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