Hitoshi Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 I pulled my Subaru out of the garage yesterday. Seemed to run fine most of the night until I was about to go home from the bar. I couldn't get it started. I had it towed back to my house this morning and tried to start it up when I got home again. Still issues. Engine cranks, sometimes starts but then eventually dies. Is it possible that the fuel mixture screw is so loose that it is just spilling gas into the carb? I noticed gas was just overflowing out of the part I circled in the picture and spilling into the carb. I'll be doing some more research and hunting around, just though I check to see if anyone had some clues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 Float is stuck or needle/seat is jammed open.... or the fuel pressure has spiked up too high somehow. Unlikely with the stock pumps though. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted August 9, 2012 Share Posted August 9, 2012 ^^^what he said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
desertsubaru Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 What they said but it also me be a sign that you shouldn't drink and drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 What they said but it also me be a sign that you shouldn't drink and drive! Hey now don't judge...my 84 is my primary "bar car"... But i just go to play pool and hang out with my buddies. And drive their drunk asses home occasionally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted August 15, 2012 Author Share Posted August 15, 2012 I pulled apart my the Weber yesterday and I'm not by any means an expert but the float and needle seemed to move freely and I couldn't imagine them getting stuck. So I'm not sure what was going on. I ended up putting it back together and it seems to be okay now. Now if I can only find a way to get at the idle speed screw and idle mixture screws a little easier. It's kinda of hard to get past the distributor with a screwdriver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czny Posted August 15, 2012 Share Posted August 15, 2012 (edited) Now if I can only find a way to get at the idle speed screw and idle mixture screws a little easier. It's kinda of hard to get past the distributor with a screwdriver. One of these could help:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Adjusting-Tool-Lisle-55250-/380461506611?hash=item589545e033&item=380461506611&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr You may get lucky & find one at a local auto parts store, most likely not the mainstream ones. Edited August 15, 2012 by czny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spazomatic Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 I pulled apart my the Weber yesterday and I'm not by any means an expert but the float and needle seemed to move freely and I couldn't imagine them getting stuck. So I'm not sure what was going on. I ended up putting it back together and it seems to be okay now. Now if I can only find a way to get at the idle speed screw and idle mixture screws a little easier. It's kinda of hard to get past the distributor with a screwdriver. Usually if theres a piece of garbage in between the needle and seat, not allowing it to seal closed, its refered to as stuck open. You may have got lucky and dislodged whatever it was, just in messing with it. For the adjustment screws, i use a screwdriver thats pretty dang long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 Haven't been doing anything or driving my Sube lately. So I decided fire it back up and continue working on it so I can get mobile again. Funny enough, I got it running pretty decent and I was at the same bar where I got stuck last time.. Got stuck again. Came out and was having flooding issues. In addition, earlier, I took off the electric choke because it wasn't working correctly and was "manually" adjusting it to get it started/warmed up. Ended up taking a cab back to get a few hours of sleep and went back in the morning to get it. I got back in the morning with some carb cleaner, WD-40 and my tools. I think I was able to dislodge whatever gunk tapping it with a wrench and blasting the inside of the opening with carb cleaner because I was able to get it to run enough to get back home. Yesterday I took the carb off to get to the base adapter gasket since it was leaking. Replaced it with a gasket I made from a box of Honey Nut Cheerios. Lol, no more leak. I'm not sure how long that's going to last. I had to drive it again and was having flooding issues while driving it. Today I did a more through job cleaning. Pulled the carb off again and cleaned all the electric choke arm/linkage and got it running a lot nicer. Still need to adjust the choke setting and idle setting. I have a couple of questions maybe you guys can help me out. Fast Idle What is the approximate RPM you guys have for your fast idle? I couldn't see how the fast idle screw adjusts up and down. Is that arm that the fast idle screw catches graduated? Timing I know people have their Webers anywhere from 12 to 22 degrees. I can't really tell a difference between anything in that range except that when I advance the timing RPMs/Vacuum increases. What are the advantage/disadvantages for having lower or higher timing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I'm not sure on the EA81... But Weberized EA82's tend to work Better at 20º no matter if they under-the -hood Sticker says it should be at 8º (+/- 2º) If the time is very much advanced, your engine will ping under load (specially with Lower octane Gasolines) and could be unhealthy for the valves... Much retarded timing will make your Ride to be Sluggish... Both situations are Undesirable, but a Li'l Advanced Timing does Help to the Weberized EA Engines to perform Better. A Couple of Questions, in order to have a Better Idea of What's Happening: ► Have you Changed the Stock Fuel Pump for an Aftermarket one? ► How Old are the Fuel Filters? Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted September 21, 2012 Author Share Posted September 21, 2012 (edited) I'm not sure about the fuel pump. I'll check it out when I get back home. As for the fuel filters, I replaced both of them recently. There was one by the tank and a secondary up in the engine bay. I'll try advancing the timing up to 20 too. I'm not sure what a "ping"-ing engine sounds like. Would it be noticeable if it was happening? Edited September 21, 2012 by Hitoshi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 I'm not sure about the fuel pump. I'll check it out when I get back home... Good Idea. ...I'm not sure what a "ping"-ing engine sounds like. Would it be noticeable if it was happening? Look Here: ~► http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Timing is not carb related, you dont run more because you have a weber. I run 20 with my hitachi, but I also have some timing issues in the distributor. fuel delivery will affect the limits of your timing and can affect where it runs well at, but its not a certainty. since the weber was swapped check if your distributor is hooked to manifold or ported vacuum. it needs to be on ported unless someone has been into the distributor to change things. My vacuum advance gives 25 degrees at max vacuum, so you cant run manifold vacuum at that amount with 20 deg initial and have it idle right. What I would recommend is check your initial with the vacuum advance unhooked and the line plugged like you normally would. then hook up your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and check again, this will tell you what your vacuum advance is rated at. then unhook the vacuum advance and turn the idle up to 2500 or 3k and see if there is any mechanical advance. once you have all of these numbers you can figure out where your timing should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loyale 2.7 Turbo Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Timing is not carb related, you dont run more because you have a weber... Yes, I Agree. But Somehow it does work better with 20º than 8º on Weberized EA82's ~ I'm not Sure on EA81's. ... then hook up your vacuum advance to manifold vacuum and check again... ...during the Tests only, because it should be Hooked to the Weber's front port for the Vacuum Advance in Normal use. Kind Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djellum Posted September 21, 2012 Share Posted September 21, 2012 Yah, i set my timing to 20 deg as well, mine has the hitachi still. I am not certain since I havent had a chance to tear into it, but I believe the reason mine runs better is because the mechanical advance is faulty. I can move the rotor and it wont spring back at all, and I cant detect any mechanical advance even up to 3k. because of this (maybe) It would need the initial advance to be higher to compensate. I know you have done some disty work, but it might be a good thing to check. Ideally now that I dont have emmisions to worry about I want to run lower initial deg and a proper mechanical and vacuum advance hooked to manifold. have to rebuild the disty first though. right now I have 20 degrees initial with no mechanical and a 25 deg vacuum on ported. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted September 22, 2012 Author Share Posted September 22, 2012 Ugg.. I just got home to check out my Sube. Still having flooding issues or something. Going to pull it off again this weekend and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TOONGA Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Is it possible that the fuel mixture screw is so loose that it is just spilling gas into the carb? I noticed gas was just overflowing out of the part I circled in the picture and spilling into the carb. It would take alot of pressure for the senario you are describing to take place. this would cause your needle and seat to be over pressured and leak into the carby body. what pressure does your fuel pump run at? do you have a fuel pressure regulator? You need to remove the needle and seat and examine it for wear if it is a rubber tipped needle and it has a ring worn into it, replace the needle and seat same for the brass needle and seat. as well as the needle and seat problem, I believe you may have a blockage in your emulsion tubes. if you don't have a weber manual download these notes https://www.rapidshare.com/files/3160717618/weber%20notes.rar or the complete WCM, whose whole name causes rapidshare to block it from existance as it gets reported as an illegal download https://www.rapidshare.com/files/1267072237/W%20C%20M.rar get it while it lasts I can re upload it but it will get removed as weber wants you to buy this for 70-80 dollars AU happy reading TOONGA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Did a full tear down and rebuilt the Weber. Seems like my choke shaft is all bent so I might have to get that replaced. I'm thinking it should move more freely. Going to go mount it up and take a test run in a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitoshi Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Replaced my choke shaft. Weber is running pretty good now. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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