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ADVICE NEEDED re: flywheel/TDC position
Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:08 AM
a)Set No1 to TDC
b)line up the TDC marking on the flywheel or crank pulley to the pointer on the bell housing or crank case
d)bolt on the flywheel
Now, because I've changed cam belts and cam oil-seals on my Subarus before I knew about the 180 degree difference in the left and right sprocket positions and that they use a different set of flywheel markings - so all of that is spot on.
BUT, when trying to start the car yesterday, the whole thing sounded very wrong. So I checked the distributor position a few times, checked there was spark, fuel and so on. All ok but still no joy - it would run - just - on one cylinder only.
So I though I better consult the Haynes Manual and the Web. Quite by chance (I was not looking for this info exactly) I read in the manual that the flywheel can only be put on in one position because the bolt holes are asymmetric and (according to some web info) that the ignition '0' flywheel mark is not set to 'TDC' but to some other position where No1 cylinder is half-way up its bore.
Now, if there is no 'conventional TDC' and the flywheel holes are asymmetric then how the hell did I bolt my flywheel (with ease) to No1 TDC at the '0' degrees pointer?
Either the Haynes manual and the Web is wrong about the asymmetric bolts or the web is wrong about the non-conventional TDC - both cant be true. Meanwhile, my car wont run. I'll take the engine out again to fix this once I know what I'm doing - so please guys... any thoughts?
Posted 10 January 2013 - 08:56 AM
Posted 10 January 2013 - 09:02 AM
Posted 10 January 2013 - 11:22 AM
Skishop69, thanks too. having disconnected everything, I'm going to take the engine out again tomorrow and check that the flywheel is on correctly (I'm pretty sure it is given that I automatically put it on lined up at No.1 TDC) The only other explanation might be that the flywheel has in some way been altered by the previous owner - the car has been massively bodged elsewhere!
Model: L-series 1.8 DL 4x4 Estate
The whole sorry tale of the cars refurbishment is on my website at http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm
With the engine out tomorrow, I'll double check everything and hope I find what I've missed. I'm annoyed with myself because in 40 years I've never had an engine I've rebuilt not start and run properly.
Posted 10 January 2013 - 11:24 AM
Posted 10 January 2013 - 11:36 AM
thanks, that was one of the first things I checked and all was well!
Posted 10 January 2013 - 01:50 PM
Posted 10 January 2013 - 02:17 PM
I too doubt that the flywheel has been altered, but I also would not have believed the very weird 'repairs' done to the rest of the car. So, for the sake of an extra couple of hours I'm going to pull the engine and check. I'm 99% certain I fitted it correctly because I'm normally very careful. But anyone can make a mistake.
Below is example of previous owner's 'repair' what was he thinking!!?
(Above) previous owner's version of repairing the rear wheel arch - astonishingly dangerous...
Posted 11 January 2013 - 04:15 AM
Posted 11 January 2013 - 09:00 AM
Posted 11 January 2013 - 10:44 AM
Posted 11 January 2013 - 10:53 AM
Posted 11 January 2013 - 02:47 PM
Do the timing marks first, then bring the flywheel to the 0 deg mark to do your ignition.
1-3-4-2 counter clockwise.
search 'ea82 timing belt' for the proper procedure.
the only other thing i can think of for the timing marks being off on the flywheel is if you have an ea81 flywheel on an ea82 engine or vice versa
Posted 12 January 2013 - 05:38 AM
Miles, mm, I hadn't considered that it might be an EA81 flywheel - but it only goes on one way and the car ran fine before the rebuild (other than low on power, rackety valve gear and numerous oil and water leaks.).
Anyway, it's all back together again and reinstalled. The only wait now is for a new water pump as the old one, not leaking prior, now won't hold water... I expect the old unit was 'sealed' by copious amounts of 'radseal' and 'Kseal' and, now it's clean its junk once more!
Posted 12 January 2013 - 05:57 AM
Pull #1 plug, crank engine by hand until you get compression on your finger that you,ve placed over the plug hole. Keep turning engine untill you reach the 0* mark. Check that disty rotor is pointing to #1 on the cap.
Double check all of the electrical connections for proper fit.
Been a few Members find a "no start" issue was due to a connection not fully seated.
Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:20 AM
when the engine is at the center of its bore, the keyway on the crankshaft pulley faces down.
when the #1 cyl is at TDC, the timing belt marks on the cam pulleys will be facing the hard edges of the valve cover.
The rotor on the disty should be facing the brake master cylinder, and the #1 position on the cap is just to the right of the clip/screw that holds on the cap
an ea81 flywheel would only fit if the holes have been enlarged for the ea82's larger bolt, although ththe orientation of the blts is the same.
the o deg mark os some 30 deg after the III mark
Posted 12 January 2013 - 01:16 PM
that was just a pic to show how badly the previous owner treated this car. That pic of the top of the rear wheel well (wheel arch in UK) was from underneath the rear trim inside the car. You can see how bad it was at http://www.nagara.co.uk/carhome.htm
Posted 13 January 2013 - 12:34 PM
Over the last few days I pulled the newly fitted engine and took off the clutch and flywheel - checked all was well, it was, and pit it all back. I checked and refitted the timing belts and all was well, I checked I had plenty of spark and fuel and all was well but the damn engine just would not run: it would splutter, backfire and run a bit on one or two cylinders but in a really erratic way. I checked the distributor loads of times and all seemed well. What on earth was the problem? I checked for compression (The gauge showed about 150psi+ on all cylinders).
Then I decided I'd take the distributor to pieces. When it was on the bench I realised I knew nothing about it - I'm used to rebuilding dizzies with condensers and points. So I just blasted it with compressed air, blasted it with WD40 and again with compressed air to remove excess WD40. I put it all back and bingo!
So there's some kind of damp or electrical fault inside the dizzy? Time will tell if it misbehaves again but I'm so pleased! It just goes to show that with semi electronic ignition a good healthy spark means nothing if there's some random firing due to an electrical fault. What the fault was I will never know - just damp I guess.
Posted 14 January 2013 - 05:01 AM
May have just been dust build-up in the disty, affecting the optics.
It's nice when they sort of fix themselves, but it sure would be good to know what the issue really was.
I like mystery, in books and movies.
Not in my vehicles...
Posted 14 January 2013 - 06:37 AM
Posted 14 January 2013 - 08:20 PM
Back in circa 1968, fellow student had one.
Loved that vehicle............
Posted 15 January 2013 - 05:13 AM
I agree, the old Minors are excellent little cars but very crude in many ways:live axle at the back; low capacity, iron straight 4; underpowered, uncomfortable and a tiny boot (trunk). But they were very light (about 750kg I think) had fantastic steering and really superb handling providing the dampers, trunnions and bushes were in good order.
I've only got a few old and blurred photos of mine from the 1980s at:
Posted 16 January 2013 - 03:31 AM
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