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91 Loyale starts fine runs fine then dies when I'm out and about...please help.

91 loyale dies

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17 replies to this topic

#1 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 02:37 PM

Hello USMB members.  I'm fairly new to subarus but have a couple old wagons now and love them so it's time I I learn all I can and I really, really appreciate those of you who take the time to reply so thanks in advance.  

 

Ok, so 1991 Loyale, 5 speed, 4x4, 229k on body and unknown on the engine as it was swapped out prior to me owning it.  The car always starts  and has been running fine but recently has started dying/stalling on me as I'm running around town and then won't want to start.  If I wait a few minutes or longer it will start again.  I have replaced the fuel filter.  When the fuel pumps go out on these wagons do they just go out or do they present these symptoms?  Any ideas as to where to start troubleshooting?  I really like this car and want to keep her going for years to come. 

 



#2 rdweninger

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 04:13 PM

First off, welcome to USMB.  You're in the right place.

  Intermittent problems can be kind of tough to diagnose, but we'll help you get there.

It could be a fuel pump... or coil going bad.  I'm sure others will chime in... soon enough.

You will need to be prepared to run some tests.  If you don't have a multimeter - get one!  Maybe $10.  You will be able to test resistance and voltage on all your Subie's electrical components.

So... how long does the car run before it dies?   Does it die quickly, or maybe starts to stumble/lurch... then die?

How long do you have to wait until the car will start again? 

  Does it only happen downtown where the streets run SW to NE   and SE to NW.  The surveyor who laid that out had problems with the Bermuda Triangle like magnetic fields..... I think. 



#3 92loyale59

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 04:57 PM

this happened to me . i changed the dizzy . the igntion control modual inside of the dizzy goes bad and when it heats up it makes your car die . i ran mine for almost two weeks with my car dying every few miles and have to wait for it to start back up. finally changed  it with a u pull it one and it happened again so i got another u pull it dizzy and it finally worked .



#4 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 05:07 PM

Thanks for the reply and for helping me figure this out.  Yes, it stumbles/lurches as it's dying.  Yesterday it did it several times in a row and each time it was anywhere from 2-5 minutes wait time before starting back up but then it would only run for a few blocks and then do it again.  Finally I was able to get it started and drive 7 miles back home with no issues.  I should mention that six months ago when I first purchased the car I swapped out the headlight/turnsignal switch as it wouldn't engage my dims.  I've read a few posts on here suggesting it may be something with ignition wiring?  I do have a mulit-meter, how do I check my coil?  Again, I appreciate the help. 



#5 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 05:54 PM

The dizzy...are you meaning distributor? Sorry, I'm not clear on what a dizzy is. 


Edited by SawtoothSubie, 22 May 2013 - 06:25 PM.


#6 86 Wonder Wedge

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 08:20 PM

^^ yeah, he means distributor.

 

When it dies, either listen for the fuel pump to prime with ignition on OR connect the green connectors under the hood by the fuel filter and you should hear the pump cycle every few seconds for approx 1 sec.

 

No noise? Could be a bad/dying pump or even a fuel pump driver inside the ECU failing.

 

Could also be a MAF, injector, ect (things that see both cold and hot operating temperatures). Determine it's a fuel problem by a quick shot of starting fuel down the throttle body.

 

Good luck!



#7 Dee2

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 09:29 PM

If it does a hurt dance before dying, that's a good indicator of a fuel related problem. 

 

When fuel pumps start to go bad they exhibit the intermittent problems you have described.  Given the mileage on your car and the fact this is a common problem for Loyales around this mileage then I would look into replacing the fuel pump. 

 

In any case, it might be a good idea to get it replaced given your mileage.  If this doesn't resolve your problem it won't hurt to have a spare fuel pump on hand and you will have eliminated a possible source of the problem for very little cost and trouble.



#8 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 22 May 2013 - 10:06 PM

I can hear the fuel pump pressurize or whatever each time i turn the key on but yeah, who knows when if ever it's been replaced.  I will price them tomorrow and see if I can pick one up.  Hurt dance...i love it! Yeah she does do that.  Thx guys for responding.



#9 92loyale59

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 11:02 AM

personaly i have never ran into a bad fuel pump and i have three loyales . but this has happeneed to me over two times and it was the distributer everytime



#10 mikaleda

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 01:43 PM

find out what your misisng, buy a cheap spark tester and when it dies plug the spark tester in and see if it has spark. if there is no spark it would most likely be the electronic module in the distributor or a coil, if it has spark then it is a fuel related problem and would most likely be a bad fuel pump.


Edited by mikaleda, 23 May 2013 - 01:43 PM.


#11 92loyale59

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 02:10 PM


    
    
        


  •                             priest lake, Idaho
                            

    
    

            
            


                


                    Posted Today, 11:43 AM
                    
                


                
                

                    

find out what your misisng, buy a cheap spark tester and when it
dies plug the spark tester in and see if it has spark. if there is no
spark it would most likely be the electronic module in the distributor
or a coil, if it has spark then it is a fuel related problem and would
most likely be a b

 

i would do that . if you dont go by a spark tester you can unplug the spakplug wire form the coil then take 1 spark plug out and put it in the spark plug wire then ground the  plug on a bolt. have some one crank the the engine over and while they are look at the tip of the plug to see if there is spark. if there is no spark then i would still asume its the dizzy . i cant imagine a fuel pump would last so long if it was on its way out.



                    
                   


#12 mikaleda

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 02:14 PM

fuel pumps can go quite a while before they go out, depending on how they are going out.



#13 92loyale59

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Posted 23 May 2013 - 04:43 PM

good to know . thanks



#14 rdweninger

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Posted 24 May 2013 - 10:58 AM

Let's use your multimeter to check the coil.
Primary winding - Set to ohms. Place your leads on the positive and negative side of the coil. Should read between 1.0 to 1.3 ohms.
Secondary winding - Place one lead on the positive side of coil, place the other lead to the center post (the one that goes to the disty). Should read 10,700 - 14,600 ohms for Nippondenso or 7300 - 11,000 for Hitachi.
You said you had a couple of wagons. Try swapping the distributors.
Is Seastrom Manufacturing still in town?

#15 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:49 AM

Wow guys I sooooo appreciate all this quality info! I have yet to attack/troubleshoot my Loyale as I just got back from a weekend running around the Sawtooth Mountains in my dual range 89 GL.  That thing is a mtn goat! 

 

I will study all this info and pick up my multi meter and spark tester and update my findings/progress.  To answer  rdweninger's question...yes, Seastom's is still here in Twin. 



#16 SawtoothSubie

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 10:51 AM

Also-  If it points to the distributor as the problem here...I have an '87 GL complete parts car.  It has the factory carb I believe.  Will the distributor be compatible with the Loyale? 



#17 92loyale59

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 04:46 PM

i dont belive so i think the carbed ones come with a different dizzy not positive though.



#18 rdweninger

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Posted 28 May 2013 - 05:19 PM

The different disty will be obvious.  One has clips... one has screws to hold the cap on.  I've read about the optical pickups... but never seen one.

I've had 2 distributors rebuilt by Philbin in Portland, OR.    The last one I mailed on Tuesday... they received it on Wednesday... then mailed it back to me on Thursday... I received it Friday.   US Postal Service rocks.   And it's cheap ($6).

  I think I paid $140 for the rebuild.   A guy could do it himself for alot less money.   If you can press on a shaft bearing, locate the electronic parts, some magnets???, and a new vacumn advance... maybe more.

  See what I mean???  I opted for the professional job.   They have a big 'ole advanced diagnostic testing machine - probably Sun.   Keep in mind though... I'll have my Subies for the rest of my life.  So the investment is worth it for me.

  I worked for Seastrom 1999-2000.   I fixed all their Y2K problems.  He's got a really nice hydralic lift in his shop!!! 







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