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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Another A/T Binding Issue

transmission transaxle wb wheel bind help request legacy 1997

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6 replies to this topic

#1 Navet

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 11:47 PM

Another A/T  Binding Issue, my apologies

 

Vehicle:             1997 Legacy L Sedan (203,000 miles)

Engine:              2.2 Liter

Transmission:   4EAT

 

Symptoms:   Severe binding during turns, even slight deviation from straight ahead. Seems to lack power but that could be normal, as this is my first experience with

  Subaru.

 

Checks performed:

 

  1. Tires and wheels match, pressure checked OK
  2. FWD fuse installed, binding relieved but transmission noisy (whine)
  3. ECU and TCM code retrieval procedure performed, no codes present (2hz)
  4. Checked ATF, looked old/burnt, drained and refilled once (will repeat)
  5. Checked Differential gear oil, at proper level and seemed fine
  6. Checked  rear end, lifted rear of car with transmission in neutral, both wheels rotate freely and rotating either results in opposite wheel remaining stationary or opposite rotation. Manually rotated driveline, results in both wheels rotating in  the same direction, everything seems free, no resistance noted

 

Checks in progress:

 

  1. Disconnect 16 pin multi-connector aft of throttle body on bell housing and check resistance of each sensor/solenoid
  2. If all sensor/solenoids measure correctly, reconnect and check voltages/resistances at TCM

 

Help, Advice Requested!!!

 

Am I proceeding down a logical path for the symptom noted or should I be heading elsewhere? Please advise!

 

Electrical Engineer playing mechanic with Daughter's car!

 

Thanks

Navet

 

 

Update, Sensor/Solenoid resistance readings:

 

Vehicle Speed Sensor 1

450-720 Ohms (expected)         541 Ohms (Actual)        Correct

 

ATF Temperature Sensor

2100-2900 Ohms @ 68F           4200 Ohms @ ~35F (Actual)        Correct

 

Duty Solenoid "A"

1.5-4.5 Ohms (Expected)           3.3 Ohms (Actual)        Correct

 

Duty Solenoid "B"                    

9-17 Ohms (Expected)               13.3 Ohms (Actual)        Correct

 

Shift Solenoid 1

20-32 Ohms (Expected)              24.5 Ohms (Actual)        Correct

 

Shift Solenoid 2

20-32 Ohms (Expected)              24.4 Ohms (Actual)       Correct

 

Shift Solenoid 3

20-32 Ohms (Expected)              25 Ohms (Actual)        Correct

 

Duty Solenoid "C"

9-17 Ohms (Expected)                33 Ohms (Actual)        Houston, I think we have Problem!

 

I assume this means Solenoid "C" is bad? looking for confirmation before I pull the tail shaft housing.

 

Thanks again.


Edited by Navet, 05 February 2014 - 06:14 AM.


#2 lmdew

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 06:55 AM

When you put the FWD fuse in did you get the FWD light on the Dash?

 

You said the binding went away so you should have had the light.

 

I'd do the trans flush, I've had good luck pulling the trans cooler hose and running the engine and letting 3/4 gallon of old fluid pump out at a time.  Turn off the engine refill and repeat until the fluid runs clean.

 

Suspect you may have a bad clutch pack, but if you have the FWD light the C Duty should be good.

 

Larry



#3 Navet

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 07:45 AM

Thanks Larry!

 

Yes I did get the FWD light, from everything I read, that says Duty C is good. I just don't understand the resistance reading! :-)



#4 1 Lucky Texan

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 12:10 PM

If this car is new to you, perhaps a previous owner swapped in a transmission or rear diff with improper final drive ratio?

But, definitely followthrough on the fluid change - perhaps try an additive to the trans fluid as well.

#5 presslab

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 12:55 PM

It's odd your resistance is somewhat high, but not shorted or open.  This is why the TCU doesn't throw a code, but there still seems to be something wrong.  It would be unusual for a solenoid to fail that way, but it could be.  I'd suspect the connector inside the trans, you can get to it from the tailhousing.  Or you can get to it from the pan but then you can't check out the transfer clutch.

 

While you're in there you should put new frictions and steels in the transfer clutch, and check the basket for deep grooving.



#6 luko

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 06:31 PM

Drain the tranny, fill it up with new fluid, or do a Imdew said to do with the tranny flush and try it to see what happens... I've fixed that "binding" problem with the 4eat's by doing this several times 



#7 CNY_Dave

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Posted 05 February 2014 - 10:16 PM

Maybe the PO put in a '4wd' switch?







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: transmission, transaxle, wb, wheel bind, help request, legacy, 1997

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