Last summer I bought an 88 GL with a 2" lift that had just been put in. I was sketch about how that would affect the CV joints but decided to ride it out and see what transpired. Less than a year later I have replaced three, and am driving with two ripped boots right now. Looking at it what it looks like is needed is a longer axle shaft, and a longer boot as well because the boot tears where the angle is too extreme. ( brand new one been on less than two months ripped today. Real bummer).
I don't want to take the lift out. Its part of what I love about the car, and the clearance is useful. But I don't know spoob to be honest. Where can a girl get custom axles? Does anyone know how I would make these? Can I buy different rubber boots that are longer that would fit and I can swap out? Are there slightly longer ones from a different model that can swap?
Surely someone else must have done this before and figured it out. I know some people swap the whole set up from a different model to go to the other lug nut system, but I just have the custom alloy wheels and all the other parts are the original set up. Any word on this would be appreciated. I don't want to drop it, but I have to find a solution.
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Posted 02 June 2014 - 03:53 AM
Posted 02 June 2014 - 06:44 AM
If it is the DOJ boot try clamping it closer to the joint. On an EA81 I know you can and would think that would be possible with an EA82 axle also. The best boots will be factory Subaru boots. Also may want to check motor and transmission mounts and see if they are bad. They will cause premature boot life also. I would try eliminating this first before I decided to blame the lift itself. I have a Brat so that is all the help I can offer!!
Posted 02 June 2014 - 08:32 AM
Posted 02 June 2014 - 10:49 AM
+1 to both of the above ideas......espescially moving the small clamp on the inner CV boot further up the shaft (towards trans). This will prevent tearing.
To lessen the overall stress, install Outback front crossmember and trans crossmember spacers and a Legacy steering coupler. 1-1/4" spacers.
Posted 02 June 2014 - 12:29 PM
To: eat live breathe subaru: I am pretty sure the engine mounts at least are good because I had the engine pulled and a re-manufactured one put in. At least I hope the garage I go to is decent enough to tell me if they weren't as they did that. It is a good Idea about the boots. I have been reading people do that, and also spray them with silicon spray to make them more pliable.
To: USMB is life: Wouldn't that then lower the engine and transmission and reduce my clearance? I need the clearance where I live. It is just dirt roads where the dirt constantly erodes and large rocks stick up. My old car was constantly hitting the bottom and that is part of what the lift is achieving avoiding.
To: its a sickness: Yes, I think it is a sickness. at least it sure feels like it today. I don't really know what the crossmembers are (yet). Is that the pitch stopper? The bar from the firewall down to the top of the engine to keep the engine from twisting?
Posted 02 June 2014 - 12:42 PM
An official welcome to the older generation Subaru. Two months ya say, hmm thats pretty good! My buddys only last about a month, and he has his cross member dropped 1". (the parts the engine sits on." All of the after market axels are garbage and this is why your having this problem. My wife had a stock 93 loyale and she ran her axles boots tore for over a year clicking like no other on every corner. Its just one flaw after market people havnt figured out i guess.
^ good advice above
Posted 02 June 2014 - 02:38 PM
I run a 2" lift, with 1 1/4" outback crossmember spacers. I also move the small clamp of the CV boot in towards the trans so it isn't stretching.
Get a good skidplate (stockers available plenty) the lost 1" clearance will be worth not ruining axles (and tires) The 2" lift with no drop creates bad camber and weird turn in at full lock. Eats tires.
Posted 02 June 2014 - 04:23 PM
I am going to look around and see if I have some or buy some 1" x 2" steel, cut it, drill holes and make 1" spacers. I looked and saw how the cross-members are bolted and it looks easy-"ish"
I want to go to 1" spacers. If I dont just make them is there a way to buy them easy (like what would I ask for?)
Edited by BestCar/OnlyCar, 02 June 2014 - 04:53 PM.
Posted 02 June 2014 - 04:53 PM
Posted 02 June 2014 - 06:32 PM
Lowering the engine & tranny isn't just as simple as fitting spacers.
You'll need to extend the steering shaft, or at least have the double uni jointed version (off a car with power steering).
If you have aircon, then you'll need to check that radiator fan fitted to the engine doesn't foul on the wiring harness that runs across the car.
The biggest point of having the lift kit is so that you can fit bigger wheels/tyres. Then you'll get back the lost ground clearance under the engine crossmember.
Posted 02 June 2014 - 08:02 PM
A proper lift would raise all the suspension members equally to that of the trut tops. This way, the suspension retains its original geometry, a true body ift. Back in the day lift kits included all these pieces. You may find used units for sale in the forums. Otherwise, these parts are not hard to fabricate. Search the archives for lift kits for examples.
Posted 03 June 2014 - 01:44 AM
To: Wagonist: I have 15" rims and 205/70 tires so yeah, even dropped an inch it is still better clearance. You recommend "You'll need to extend the steering shaft, or at least have the double uni jointed version (off a car with power steering)." My car does have power steering (was just under there today fixing a power steering fluid leak) but I don't know what kind of steering shaft I have. I mean, I was just looking at it today, but I will have to look up what "double Uni Jointed" looks like.
are there double uni jointed for both power and non-power and you are saying to make sure is from a power one?
Is this extending the steering shaft a difficult thing? -and- is there any other problems I will discover doing this you can warn me about?
Posted 03 June 2014 - 01:54 AM
To: catch this fox:
Hmmm. I know what the cross members are now and I looked under and saw where/how to drop both the transmission and engine, and I know where the strut tops are, but I don't know what the "suspension members" are?
I did not lift the car, the fellow I bought it from did just before he sold it. he just used a piece on the front struts and a piece over the back tires (don't know how to describe). I am going to add 1" spacers. -what other pieces are involved that you know of?
I will search the archives. Not sure I will know what I am looking at!
Posted 03 June 2014 - 02:21 AM
To:catch this fox
Well, I just spent a long time searching. Not sure what my glitch is. Putting in words 'lift kit' and searching under 'forums' not finding anything. Is there a different way to search the 'archives?'
Posted 03 June 2014 - 06:09 AM
Sadly most forum searches suck. May try Goggling it and you will find USMB post that you can click on. Also try searching through the off road forum.
Posted 03 June 2014 - 05:25 PM
Use Google and enter this after your search term
So if you want to search lift kit enter
lift kit site:www.ultimatesubaru.org
Also would be interested in seeing how this car is lifted. Doesn't sound quite like a normal lift.
Posted 03 June 2014 - 06:31 PM
rub some axle grease in the folds on theoutside of the boot as well.thisway it wont rip as fast from rubbing itself
Posted 03 June 2014 - 07:23 PM
If you have power steering, then you'll already have the double universal jointed steering connector.
Look below near the brake booster, & you'll see a thick shaft coming out of the firewall. Because it changes direction to mate to the steering rack itself, it needs this joint.
Because the steering rack is bolted to the bottom of the engine crossmember, if you lower that, then you also lower the steering rack & move it away from the shaft into the cabin. Therefore, a connector needs to be put in the middle. Follow the link I posted & you'll get some ideas. If the Legacy one is longer, I like that idea vs the extension piece commonly supplied with lift kits.
Suspension members refers to any part that moves (compared with the car) when the wheels go up & down. There are 2 on either side for the front. A folded metal bar that goes directly across (commonly called the Lower Control Arm or LCA), and the round bar going back at an angle (called the radius rod here, not sure what in the US)
Posted 03 June 2014 - 09:26 PM
buy spacers from a Legacy Outback 96-99..... the ones for the front crossmeber, and the ones for the trans corssmember. get the bolt(s) too.
and buy a regular legacy steering coupler.
install on your car.
Posted 04 June 2014 - 06:14 PM
To: Wagonist: Thank you for taking the time to explain things to me.
I see the steering shaft and how that works and why it needs lengthened.
My current plan/understanding is that I need to drop engine and tranny (involves 1" spacers and longer bolts) and that I need to figure out which steering coupler is the correct one or add an extension at the joint on the steering shaft. This all sounds do-able
"Suspension members refers to any part that moves (compared with the car) when the wheels go up & down. There are 2 on either side for the front. A folded metal bar that goes directly across (commonly called the Lower Control Arm or LCA), and the round bar going back at an angle (called the radius rod here, not sure what in the US)"
Do I also need to do something to these 'suspension members' ?
Thank you, Patty
Posted 04 June 2014 - 06:15 PM
To Gloyal: Why do you suggest 1 1/4" spacers? I am currently planning on going with 1"
Posted 04 June 2014 - 06:22 PM
What is the best crossmember spacer? I see ones that are just a hollow tube that the bolt runs through, seems like those could be made out of cut pipe, and I see ones made out of hollow square metal tubing, and also solid metal chunks...
Posted 04 June 2014 - 06:26 PM
Posted 04 June 2014 - 09:30 PM
No problem. You're new and keen to learn. And also willing to have a look over the car first & then ask intelligent questions, which I personally much prefer over people who just ask inane questions on the internet without bothering trying to do some research first.
The properly built lift kits here either use solid aluminium bar, or square tube (cos the full kits lower the cross member the same amount as the suspension) with crush tube welded in across the holes for strength. I wouldn't recommend just using bar without strengthening because they can twist sideways under loads and end up looking like a rhombus (spelling?).
The LCA is attached to the engine crossmember, so when it gets lowered, so will those.
The radius rod goes through a plate which also holds the front gearbox crossmember. These need to be spaced down also.
Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: lift, CV, axles, boots, custom axles
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