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Low budget 15" wheels ~ what do you think of these?


Low Budget 15" Wheels Choices  

26 members have voted

  1. 1. How do these Rims Looks on my "BumbleBeast" Subaru?

    • Too much Bling-Bling! (Ricer)
      4
    • Great choice! ~ (Balance between Usefulness and Looks)
      21
    • Lousy choice (Redneck)
      1


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My problem now is that I couldn't find in Honduras, How to properly Paint those wheels in Black / yellow. I can not find Plasti Dip, but I didn't like the idea of "Easy peeling Paint" after all, so I wanted Black Powder Coat.

 

Powder coating requires especial procedures, and people who does Powder coating locally, doesn't want to paint my Wheels on certain areas only; they said that it is all painted, or nothing...

 

Which other paint has good adherence to polished "smooth" aluminium?

 

Kind Regards.

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I wanted to Prepare the Wheels with a Primer, then Black Paint in the Main Areas and a Yellow stripe on the Lip, but somehow I'm running out of Money, I'm still Jobless, so maybe I would put them as they are right now, only Polished... What do you think about that?

 

Or are there any simpler way to paint them on Low Budget?

 

Kind Regards.

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Personally then, I would put them on the car as is (though maybe with a coat of clear to protect them a bit).

You can always repolish them later when you find someone who can do the right thing by you.

 

A lot of people paint wheels in "2-pack". It's harder than normal paint, and a lot easier to do with different areas on the same object.

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Jeszek,

 

The simplest and less expensive way is to rattle can them; most people hate that idea but I have had some decent enough results so far for the parts on my car. Still learning though. From my understanding you really want to make sure to get a primer made specifically for aluminum, like Zinc Chromate, if those wheels are that vs. steel.

 

Do you have Rustoleum brand of paints there? They started a line of paints that are similar to function of plasti-dip. https://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/peel-coat

 

- Jacob

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... The simplest and less expensive way is to rattle can them ...

 

Yes, I agree with you, however, since those wheels are made of Aluminium, the Rattle can will need a primer suitable for aluminium, and that will raise the cost, also such primer is not easy to find locally, in the form of a Rattle Can, because I've never seen such a thing locally, so far...

 

 

 

... lot of people paint wheels in "2-pack". It's harder than normal paint, and a lot easier to do with different areas on the same object.

 

By "2-pack" paints, you refer to the Primer + Paint, isn't it?

 

 

... Do you have Rustoleum brand of paints there? ...

 

Yep, those are Easy to find in local Aftermarket parts' stores and Hardware Stores, such like Doit Center, or MegaLarach, but I've never seen a Primer for Aluminium on a Rattle Can, yet... maybe I better gonna search and Ask them.

 

Kind Regards.

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... Do you have Rustoleum brand of paints there? ...

 

 

I went yesterday to search at places that sells RustOleum and other equivalent products...

 

Rust-Oleums.jpg

 

...and couldn't find the Aluminium Primer, only the Standard "Multi Surface" Primers...

 

Kind Regards.

Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well with a boat town so close; check a boat repair shop or parts place...

 

You were right, I asked a guy I know who has a Dry Dock and do multiple repairs on Merchant Vessels and Fishing Vessels, and he told me that he obtains Aluminium Primer at the Local "Pinturas Sur" paint factory, I can't believe that I completely forgot abot them ... :o ... I must had a Brainfart.

 

In fact the "Sur" (spanish for South) paint factory, uses German formulas, they sells the "Klass" and "Glasurit" automotive paints locally, I painted my beloved Subaru "BumbleBeast" in "Radioactive Yellow" using their "Glasurit" poliurethane paint, long years ago.

 

So, I'll check at the local "Sur" paints' store, tomorrow... Kind Regards.

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Years ago when preparing rally cars I used all sorts of expensive paints including one made for the trucking Industry by Dulux paints (Now PPG) and guess what I found to be the best for rally cars, It did not chip like the too hard truck paint (Dulux Acran) and with some lateral thinking worked perfectly and gave a high quality finish.

 

This is the secret Industrial Enamel (Now available in about 300 colors) mixed with Enamel Add (A Hardner like two pack paints) cost One litre of Enamel @$14.00 AU one Tin of Enamel Add @ $16.00 Au (Only used about 20% of that for a Litre) Spray with a high quality Spray gun designed for metallic paints (Extra fan air holes in the Nozzle) the trick them was paint and wait 20 minutes the paint was then dry with the hardner added unlike normal enamel that takes ages to dry.

 

Then the real trick is to Buff the paint 20 minutes after being applied with "Burnishing Creme" a ultra fine cutting compound designed for two pack Paints, Result is a very high quality finish similar to a very good quality Acrylic Paint with about twenty hand rubbed and polished coats,The Finish is superb done right and dirt cheap as you use about a quarter of a litre of thinners, One Litre of Enamel and the enamel add to paint a whole car Inside and out.

 

Compare that to the cost of fancy two pack or Polyurethane paints (Which are Great) Biggest bonus was however finding out unlike all other paints used before it was extremely stone chip resistant something of a major issue with Rally cars because they are always sideways copping a spray of gravel on the side of the car.

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Thank you for your kind advice.

 

Yes, somehow that is what I obtained at "Sur" paintings: the Aluminium Primer and then, an industrial Grade, Black Paint, chemically designed to withstand the requirements of Heavy Machinery, so the paint will be much more chip resistant, than the average paint.

 

Now I need to find the proper time to do such paintings...

 

I'll borrow an air compressor & hardware from a friend.  Kind Regards.

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Since the rusty lug Nuts that came along the Hyundai Steel Rims I have,

 

are designed to hold Hub Caps (I dislike Hub Caps so I didn't put them) ...

 

Rusty%20old%20Nuts.jpg

 

 

...their wide flat washers doesn't allow them to fit on the Aluminium Wheels,

 

so I had to search for new lug Nuts that fits good on the...

 

Nut%20Seat%20on%20the%20Wheel.jpg

 

 

...Aluminium wheel's Base, shown above.

 

I found this ones which are Strong and well built:

 

Electric%20Blue%20Lug%20Nuts.jpg

 

...which seems to fit well, but has an elongated curvy base,

 

that is not going deeply inside the 45º portion of the seats.

 

Testing%20the%20Nut.jpg

 

What do you think about that?

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I have a question.  I really liked the look of the 240sx rims that you posted early in this thread.  do I need to use an adapter plate for those rims or will they fit the stock hubs.  And also if I wanted to upgrade to 15" rims and some standard size tires will I need to lift the car at all or should I be good?

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... I really liked the look of the 240sx rims...

 

Thanks, have you Voted in the Poll?

 

 

I have a question ... do I need to use an adapter plate for those rims or will they fit the stock hubs.

 

Those Rims does Not fit the Stock Hubs, because you know, Subaru used 4X140 lug pattern on these Models, and the Rims I posted here, are 4X114.3 ... You can use an adapter, there are some made by other USMB members.

 

In my Case, I redrilled the Hubs almost two decades ago, see:

 

 

Hubs Re-drilled in that pattern. Follow the Link above for more information about that.

 

But let me tell you that my Subaru "BumbleBeast" has been working like that,

 

Flawlessly since year 1996, almost twenty years of rude driving,

 

Due to the Weekend Offroadings, without issues...

 

All your answers are in previous posts of this Thread.

 

Kind Regards.

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