Sweet82 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Been reading a bunch of threads recently about LSD's and Welded diffs. The LSD seems like it would be somewhat pricey to manufacture/buy. With that in mind Welding seems like a good alternative for off-road. Question: With the diff welded, is there a known weak link in the system? Is there a likely spot for failure? I know Toyotas break the "burfield joints" when the pressure gets too much. In the Subies does the axle or the stub shaft or what, break most often with a welded diff? Is there a known weak link in the welded diff rear end? Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer--Welded Diff 01 Forester--LSD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jibs Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 The welds. I know a couple of board members who have broken the welds on the diff, and had to make the rest of the trip in an open diff. Other than that I think they're pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreeEyedBandit Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Stub Shafts are the weakest link right now from my experience. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roundeye Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 The welds. I know a couple of board members who have broken the welds on the diff, and had to make the rest of the trip in an open diff. Other than that I think they're pretty good. Three words. Super Missle weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mudrat79 Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Stub shafts coming out of the diff are by far the weakest link......I know this well..... After that it will be the Axle Cups Grenading...... So for you My Utah Bud I would Say Weld it, then carry at least 2 Extra stubs as well as 1 Rear axle and One front axle..... Your Ride is Light enough You won't Break as Easily as We did at the Con and Other places..... Later, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 okay i don't know if this deserves a separate thread or not but can you break something in the transmission from driving around with a welded diff? 2 days after driving around with my welded diff. we went mudding and after that i had a bad vibration that soon ( a day or two) it turned into a crunching sound and the vibration got worst drove it about 2 more days then parked it. was affraid of being stranded. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 probably unrelated. Welding the diff will only create stress through the drivetrain that links the 2 rear wheels together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 Unless you cruise around on the street, putting on some miles. Once you start making turns (with both axles in) it will start wearing on the drivetrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 driving on a high-traction surface (pavement) is horrible for welded diffs. the wheels need to each turn at different speeds when you turn, or even so much as steer a few degrees away from straight. the rear axles can be disassembled on the car without removing the wheel (i think). the halfshaft comes out quickly and easily. that way your welded diff will be sending eqal power to both axle stubs but with only one axle driving a wheel, you can see that the wheels can then turn at whatever speeds they need. i've never pulled a halfshaft myself (that's how much of a hardcore offroader *I* am!) but that's the way those who are do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet82 Posted February 23, 2005 Author Share Posted February 23, 2005 Mudrat has kinda figured out where I was going with this thread. My diff is welded and I was looking for a list of parts to carry on the trail. I'd like to know from those who have been there what parts to carry for repairs. My concern is "Slick Rock" and a welded diff. Slick Rock has incredible traction. Incredible traction and a welded diff worry me :-\ What I'm getting is, Spare axle, Spare axle stub/diff Spare axle cup...anything else a candidate for a field repair? Do any/all of these parts have a front and rear or are all parts interchangable front to rear? And when I go Junkyarding are manuel EA81's the same as EA82's on these parts (hatches & wagons). Thanks, Glenn 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester **I currently have just one rear axle in place for City use** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 My concern is "Slick Rock" and a welded diff. Mine too! My diff is getting welded as we "speak" . I've got spare axles, but I need spare stub shafts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezapar Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 My concern is "Slick Rock" and a welded diff. Slick Rock has incredible traction. Incredible traction and a welded diff worry me :-\ What I'm getting is, Spare axle, Spare axle stub/diff Spare axle cup...anything else a candidate for a field repair? ** When we went thru the Rubicon, the three Soobs all used welded diffs. The diffs all held together fine. Axles too, don't think we broke too many. Stub axles broke a lot. I think we replaced 5. Lots of traction means you don't have to air down tires, so you get a little more clearance. Ken ran 40lbs the whole time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 your buggy is really light, i wouldnt worry about breaking stuff so much. I bet with the tires, bumpers, winches and supplies, a subaru could be close to 3500lbs. My guess is that you'll be just breaking 2000lbs fully loaded?? I would air down those quad tires. They are very round, so they have very little contact patch at high psi. My quad is useless at street pressure. Then I air down till the contact patch is about flat all the way across, and I can crawl along and follow all the rockcrawlers up the cliffs. It doesnt handle very well though, nearly flat tires and a 3.5ft track dont go well together :-\ ...another point is that you are only running 26" tires with stock gearing. The rubicon rigs with the exception of qmans brat were running better crawl ratios and bigger tires in addition to the greater weight. I dont think you have anything to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 The welds. I know a couple of board members who have broken the welds on the diff, and had to make the rest of the trip in an open diff. Other than that I think they're pretty good. the welds should be the absolute last thing to break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 the welds wont break if you put enough meat in between the gears with a high powered machine. a 110 mig is not going to do the job, you need an arc welder or 220mig to really melt those gears together On mine you can barely tell theres any gears in my diff, its just solid metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archemitis Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 a 110 mig works, you just gotta rage it! and know what your doing. but a big ole stick seems to be what is recommended. unless you have a fancy TIG =] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
singletrack Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 2 days after driving around with my welded diff. we went mudding and after that i had a bad vibration that soon ( a day or two) it turned into a crunching sound and the vibration got worst drove it about 2 more days then parked it. I was just putting my diff back together and thought of your post here.... could your ring gear be coming off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazmataz Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 not sure yet i changed out the old transmission and will take it apart at a later time and see what happened. i do think it might be something to do with the final drive. thanks for the reply thats the first thing i will look at. I was just putting my diff back together and thought of your post here.... could your ring gear be coming off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweet82 Posted March 4, 2005 Author Share Posted March 4, 2005 Still looking to assemble a trail repair kit, Are the front and rear axles the same? Are the front and rear cups the same? Are the front and rear axle stubbs the same? Looking forward to breaking things... Glenn, 82 SubaruHummer 01 Forester Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushbasher Posted March 4, 2005 Share Posted March 4, 2005 no, pretty sure not, and no :-\ But I wouldnt worry about the front. Its stronger than the back anyways. The stubs are solid, the cups are larger diameter and the axles are thicker in the front. The back end has the hollow stubs, skinny axles and cups. I would bring a pair of axles and some spare stubs. I think with light weight and 26s you will have some smooth sailing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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