Scottbaru Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Does the boss go into the pulley at all, or is it flush with the back? I see the pulley below doesn't look worn on the rear part of the wear surface, so it could stand to be spaced out 1/8" or so. You could make a 1/8" thick plate with holes very closely matching the bolts, tying together the two pulley bolts. That'd reinforce it pretty well. With or without JB, that'd give me peace of mind. If you take some accurate measurements I'll make you such a plate and send it. Too bad I'm not ready to do my belt, that'd simplify things. Or just haul it up here, we'll git-er-done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 19, 2005 Author Share Posted August 19, 2005 Yea, I kinda don't want to do any deeper drilling either. Too risky. As for getting a new pulley, because it would be permanent, I decoide to use a threaded rod. (see in my pic). That way I can place a nut on the end to take the pulley on /off. Strong locktite to be used too. Scottbaru, not sure what you mean by a plate?? Sounds like an interesting idea. The boss does not go into the pulley. It just sits against the boss. There is only one bolt for the pulley too. Yes, it could sit out a bit. It also appeared that the original timing belt was shredded on the side from the pulley being loose/misaligned. (I'm not opposed to more frequent timing belt changes.Just the belt is fairly easy!) I'm going to order that aluminum repair stuff and call some welders too. Do you all think it can be welded in the car? What about fuel in the engine? (That would be bad to blow it up!) Thanks Much !! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottbaru Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 When blind holes are tapped, they don't get threads all the way to the end. Taps are tapered at the tip to guide the tap and progressively cut threads, and that tapered end doesn't cut useable threads. Also, in production they don't run the tap down 'till it bottoms out, that wears and breaks taps. Tapping by hand, you can feel when the tap hits the bottom of the hole and not break the tap. A bottoming tap cuts full depth thread almost to the tip, and would give you a bit more useable thread than a standard tap. Taps aren't very expensive, you should be able to find one that matches your bolt. I suggest tapping it to the bottom with a standard tap, then grinding off most of the tapered tip and tapping it again. That'll get you a few more turns of thread, maybe many more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 19, 2005 Author Share Posted August 19, 2005 Thanks scott......I will use that advise too in the plan!! I'm just worried about welding and the gasoline in the car! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 OK i am impressed by the aluminum repair rod. I think that would fix your problem perfectly since you can catch enough threads to kep the hole square. It should be easy enough to make the landing (flat area the peice lays on) square, just take your time and dont rush. I may order this myself just to play with it and see what it can do for future reference. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 and have the crank case vented. I think you could weld it in place with no problem, but I would rather see it in person before I decided myself. I have welded truck rear ends by opening the drain and fill plugs and flushing them out as much as possible first. You should be a fairly safe distance from fuel lines and such. People do weld gas tanks with proper precautions. Then there a few jokes about welding gas tanks too..... Actually I would not be all that worried about drilling through into the crank case or an oil passage. Do be careful and measure if you can, but when I was rebuilding Ford FE series we had to be sure we installed a couple of oil passage plugs correctly, and many engines have plugs and freeze plugs in water jackets. If you drill though you just have to clean out all the bits and plug it carefully with the stud and sealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottbaru Posted August 19, 2005 Share Posted August 19, 2005 Actually I would not be all that worried about drilling through into the crank case or an oil passage. Do be careful and measure if you can, but when I was rebuilding Ford FE series we had to be sure we installed a couple of oil passage plugs correctly, and many engines have plugs and freeze plugs in water jackets. If you drill though you just have to clean out all the bits and plug it carefully with the stud and sealer.I suppose if he drills through the water jacket and into the crankcase that would be bad! If he stops drilling often and checks to see if he's penetrated anything, there's not too much danger. If he blows through the crankcase wall he could just drop the oil pan, reach up and put a rubber washer and nut on the end of the stud! Well, maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 Well, the car is up and running again!! I was able to tap about 1/8 " more into the hole. That means that the stud I used is holding with much better that 1/2" of thread. (not quite 3/4" though) Since the bolt has no "pulling" tension. It feel pretty confident with it. I topped that broken area with JB weld, for some additional support. It's in pretty darn good! I LUCKED out this time!!!! I'm leaving the passenger side timing cover off for a while to monitor the situation. Thanks to all that helped me feel better about this and offered suggestions. You are all my Subaru family!! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 good job getting it running again. sounds like it's over and tackled but i've had a number of instances like this with stripped blocks and missing chunks out of blocks. it's more common than you might imagine. i've seen it a few times. that engine block is definitely not scrap. a good machine or head shop like mentioned earlier would have been my choice. there are any number of ways to attack this from welding to making an appropriate insert. been there, done that. JB Weld and similar compounds are not as good. they will work but the lifetime of that kind of repair is unknown. a properly made insert or weld will not fail. I consider JB Weld a temporary solution. I've used it exactly like this before in timing belt bolt situations and it will last 10's of thousands of miles. but it also gets very brittle and falls apart if you ever touch it again or over a period of time/miles. i feel time and vibration do not treat this stuff very well. but when i fix something i want 100,000 miles of reliability so my requirements may be higher than yours. that being said i'd want some locktite on any bolt with less than nominal threading to keep it from backing out or working loose. many timing belt holes are deeper than the bolts that in them. so when i encounter stripped bolt holes, most of the time the easy solution is to just get or make a slightly longer bolt to reach more good threads at the bottom. congrats on the fix, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 23, 2005 Author Share Posted August 23, 2005 Thanks for the feedback grossgary. I feel pretty comfortable with the depth of the the threads. IF HOWEVER, it fails, welding will be my 1st move. Thats what I was going to do, before I tapped it further down. Quick question.....could something like this be welded with the engine IN the car?? There is plenty of room, but what about fire/explosion hazard?? Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAWalker Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 I wouldn't see a problem with doing it in the car. This of course would be up to the preson you find to do the welding. I rump roast u me ing your not doing the welding yourself. You may want to think about having it welded sooner rather than later. If this patch job fails, the damage may make another repair impossible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 but you would need experience and good equipment. The newer gas cooled welders don't heat far from the job. As long as it's running and does not move you are good. It is true the JB weld may fail in the future, but let's hope it is a long way away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 If anyone tries the aluminum repair rods, let us know how they work for you. I don't have enough spare cash right now to fool around with it, but it looks pretty fun to play with and a potential godsend for repairing aluminum parts. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 Actually, the bolt seemed secure even without the topping of JB weld. I will monitor VERY closely. The pulley that bolts into the water pump has only about a 1/2" of thread too. And no, I'm not a welder! I'll pay for a good job with that!!! Thanks all! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccrinc Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 I've been trying for days to think of the name of a product that's better than JB Weld. Devcon! It's machinable, as strong or stronger than the original material. (Rick used it once to fix a part on a chiropractor's moving table. Last time I was there, it was still functional, and it's been about 13 yrs since he did that.) If the JB Weld fails, either Devcon or a good aluminum welder. Emily http://www.ccrengines.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBARU3 Posted August 24, 2005 Author Share Posted August 24, 2005 Thanks emily! I think the bolt actually is OK, even without the topping of JB. It torqued OK too. Time will tell!!! Todd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brus brother Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 Great thread! I breathed a sigh of relief when I got to the successful solution.You think Emily has any job openings for Todd at CCR in the "Phew" Department? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 there's room to weld in there, lucky it looks fairly accessible by someone who's good. probably best to let an actual welder do it who has alot of aluminum experience. a good machine shop can do wonders with making an insert to accomplish the job as well. been there, done that. either way, sounds like you got it good. locktite would definitely keep it from backing out. nice seeing a successful, difficult problem fixed, thanks for the updates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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