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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Info on the WA "Freebie" Soob, need help


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10 replies to this topic

#1 Ever Victorious

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 09:56 PM

OK, Thanks to edrach for seeing if he can get me some help. So far, no call from his neighbor, but that's ok. If push really comes to shove, I can see if father-in-law will loan me the Durango and I'll try to hunt down a dolly.

I got a call back from the guy after he found the title and verified the VIN.

He simply made a mistake when he listed the year on Craigslist. he thought it was a 74, but both the title and the VIN indicate '83...

It is an '83 EA71 Hatchback (just the standard version, not GL or DL). Not exactly a '74 coupe, but I'm not going to scoff at a free Subaru.

It's going to need at least the rear hatch glass, if not a full rear hatch. The glass was busted out, but he says it's been covered.

He says the car ran and drove fine when it was given to him and parked, 6 years ago. A new clutch was put in just before it was given to him.

What I need, is help with what I should do to prep the car before I attempt to start it.

It's been sitting for some time, so I realize I will likely need to replace the battery. Also, I know that the oil and coolant should be drained and refilled, and the gas should have some sort of stabilizer (not sure what) added... and that replacing the plugs and air filter wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Any other tips from those of you who have resurrected a long-idle engine?

#2 wesley willis

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 10:16 PM

i had aquired an 87 grand am, it started after being idle for four years when i put in a new battery. it ran like crap though for the longest time, then it got rear ended so i donated it to the local wrecker.

#3 xoomer

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 10:49 PM

um drain the gas.

New oil, and crank it with no gas, to build up oil pressure...

In my opinion, coolant (unless Empty) should be fine.


plugs wires. battery DEFINATE!, cap rotor. and it should run ok... check the fluid in the Transmision and anywere else.. also See if it rolls freely, I had one car that had sat for two years and the calipers stuck


-x

#4 Ever Victorious

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 10:55 PM

um drain the gas.

New oil, and crank it with no gas, to build up oil pressure...

In my opinion, coolant (unless Empty) should be fine.

plugs wires. battery DEFINATE!, cap rotor. and it should run ok... check the fluid in the Transmision and anywere else.. also See if it rolls freely, I had one car that had sat for two years and the calipers stuck


Good advice on the brakes, hadn't thought of that. Doesn't coolant break down, though?

How do I drain the gas in that tank? just siphon?

#5 hatchsub

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Posted 28 September 2005 - 11:02 PM

I cant remember if my old hatch had a drain plug on the gas tank. Some cars do. If not the easiest way to drain it would probably be disconnecting it from the fuel filter near the passenger side rear tire. it will drain most if not all of the gas.

#6 BobBrumby

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 12:00 AM

if the fuel lines still have petty in them pull the fuel line off the carb and get it as low as possible, capilary action should do the rest. this might take all night tho. i duno if it will drain the whole tank but when i was changing a filter i did the same thing, by mistake, and the flow didnot seem to slow at all.

#7 edrach

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 01:30 AM

There's a blue '85 hatch in Lynnwood Pull a Part. That would give you the rear glass, or the whole rear hatch if you want it. I gave your number to my neighbor; I know he's busy, but I thought he'd call you.

#8 Ever Victorious

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 01:35 AM

There's a blue '85 hatch in Lynnwood Pull a Part. That would give you the rear glass, or the whole rear hatch if you want it. I gave your number to my neighbor; I know he's busy, but I thought he'd call you.


K... would probably be a good thing for me to snag once I get it home.

Any other things I should know once I get it before I try to resurrect it?

#9 Turbone

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 02:15 AM

If you replace the sparkplugs, you can squirt a little ATF in the cylinders and rotate the crank a few times.

#10 Ever Victorious

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 02:18 AM

If you replace the sparkplugs, you can squirt a little ATF in the cylinders and rotate the crank a few times.


I do intend to replace the plugs. Is this for keeping the cylinders lubed or breaking up any potential "gunk"? How much is "a little"?

#11 grossgary

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Posted 29 September 2005 - 05:42 AM

i wouldn't put any ATF in the engine if it sits sideways like the EA82's and ER27's. i'm not familiar with those older motors but anything added to a horizontally opposed motor will just sit in the bottom and not distribute very well anyway.

if you do add, don't add much. a teaspoon/tablespoon full would be about right.

change the oil first. then get a drill or air compresser attached to the oil pump and run it for awhile without starting the engine, this will flow oil through the system. i've used sockets on oil pumps and also timing belts driven by a drill to turn the oil pump. if you don't want to do that, just disconnect the fuel pump and use the starter to turn the motor for awhile. don't run the starter more than 15-20 seconds at a time. i'd do that a few times to circulate oil. bottom line, is get fresh oil through the motor before trying to start it.

pull a fuel line under the car. probably desirable to pull a fuel line closest to the tank and drain.

pull the intake hose and make sure nothing built a nest in there that'll get sucked in the engine.

don't let it idle and walk away - keep an eye on the temp gauge in case it starts running hot.




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