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Weber Swap Done! How to Connect Heads Tubes?


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36 replies to this topic

#1 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:45 AM

This Thread is a Continuation from This one ~► Here,

which have more Background information regarding the Weber Carburetor search.

 

______________________________________________________________________________________

 

Greetings, Fellows.

 

I already installed the 32/36 Weber carburetor on my EA82 Subaru engine, but I am not sure at this point, how should I connect the PCV system hoses to the small air filter box. 

 

Do you know how Should I route the PCV system hoses, on a Weber Swap in the EA82?

 

Thanks, Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 11:35 PM.


#2 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:49 AM

You can use 1/2 inch plastic tees to connect them all together. The final one should go into your air cleaner housing- there's a knockout and a plastic elbow included in the kit for that purpose. So when you're done you'll have a breather tube from each valve cover connected with the PCV valve and plumbed into the air cleaner.

#3 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 09:55 AM

First of All: Thanx a lot for your answer. :)

The K731 Redline Weber Kit, Came with an air filter Box that has only one Small Nipple to insert a 5/8" hose to it.

There is a Hose coming from each head, and a third one coming from the middle of the engine's back, at the intake manifold; I can Figure out how to Connect those three hoses to each other with a sort of X adapter, and the Open one should go straight to the Air Filter, as you wrote; but seems like the P.C.V. system will not suck the fumes properly with that setup...

 

Any other ideas?

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 08:56 PM.


#4 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:10 AM

On the back of the intake, below the carb, there is a PCV valve. That's the one you described as coming from the middle of the engine. On each valve cover there is a breather tube. You connect all of those together with a tee, and then use another tee to connect to the nipple that came in your kit.

#5 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:20 AM

On the back of the intake, below the carb, there is a PCV valve. That's the one you described as coming from the middle of the engine. On each valve cover there is a breather tube. You connect all of those together with a tee, and then use another tee to connect to the nipple that came in your kit.

 

O.K., Thank you so much. I will interconnect them all and then plug them to the Air Filter Cleaner. Do you have any Photo images of this procedure? or the Link to them?

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 08:54 PM.


#6 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:25 AM

Follow the hose to where it ends. You will find a PCV valve in the back of the intake manifold. If you still want pictures, let me know and I'll take some after work.

#7 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 10:47 AM

Thank you so Much.

 

I Will go to buy some new hose and tees etc, to do that.

 

I will reply after that, Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 08:58 PM.


#8 baccaruda

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 12:18 PM

got a bigger picture of that yellow wagon in your avatar?

#9 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:00 PM

Yes, I Got more Pictures, the Yellow wagon is my "Loyale 2.7 Turbo" project car; but in this thread, I'm writing about my EA82 White Wagon. Follow this link to see photos of my yellow wagon:

~► http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51053

 




With the Weber, the EA82 is Running better than ever! :burnout: But I want to Connect the Open Hoses for the P.C.V. system, the Hoses from each Valve Cover and the PCV Valve.

As suggested above by Subarian, I will join both valve cover Hoses in one TEE, and I will Attach the Mid-engine hose to Another Tee. Then I will Joint the Valve Cover Hoses open end tee, to one of the two remaining open ends of the Mid-engine Tee, and the only one open end that remains alone, I will connect it directly to the Weber's Air Filter Box. I Think it will work Fine. but Tell me:

 

  • Will the Mid-Engine Hose (PCV) Suck Oil from the Valve Cover Hoses?
  • Is there any problem near or future with this Config.?

Please. Answer this As Soon As Possible. Thank you So Much.

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 09:05 PM.


#10 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:17 PM

That would be the correct configuration. You might want to make sure your PCV is working properly. Take it out and shake it. If it rattles, it's fine. If not, replace it. The PCV will suck oil and gas fumes from the engine.

#11 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:19 PM

So where are the pictures? I'd like to see how the factory fit the ER27 into the wagon's engine compartment.

#12 TomRhere

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 07:56 PM

Here's a couple pics on how I did mine. Yes, the Weber is on backwards, but I wanted it that way... Would've worked for you also, less problems with power steering pump.

In this pic, you can see where the PCV valve is located and the hose coming off it. Look just below the choke housing. Click on pic to make it bigger.
http://photobucket.c...ppedlinkage.jpg

In this pic, you can see how I used the factory Tee on the PCV hose, and one of the valve cover hoses. I then ran a smaller hose to the opening in the air filter base plate.
http://photobucket.c...t=Weberized.jpg

Check your local auto parts stores for a small air filter unit. You should be able to find one that has a hose fitting on it. This will fit into the free end of the other valve cover hose. Sorry, no pic of that filter, didn't have one at the time pic was taken. Look at the jack and you can see the other valve cover hose just hanging there.

Yes, I have the hoses run backwards from what the factory ones where, but it don't make any difference. You just want to move air thru the engine, direction of flow doesn't matter, just as long as it does flow..

#13 Subarian

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Posted 16 February 2006 - 08:35 PM

Here's the picture of mine. I've run it like this since I put the Weber on 70,000 miles ago.

Attached Files



#14 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 February 2006 - 09:39 AM

O.K. Thanx for your Answers...

Last Night, I have done This: First of All, I Plugged the Left and the Right Valve Cover's Hoses in a 5/8" Tee. Then I Plugged the Open End to Another 5/8" hose and Tee, which has one open end connected to the PCV valve
(Mid-Engine) Hose, and the Last remaining open end, went to the Air Filter Box of the Weber.

Soon I Will put here photos of that.

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 09:16 PM.


#15 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 17 February 2006 - 10:36 PM

Below are the Photos of my Hose Configuration, done as Subarian suggested above; I've noticed that with this configuration, I can hear a Little Metallic Sound, like a Very Speedy Rattle, just between the 750 and the 1200 RPM's, it doesn't sound like the regular valves or pinging sounds, instead, it sounds more like if the mere P.C.V. Valve is now rattling like crazy ... :o ... so please: Check the photos below and let me know if the setup is right or not. 

 

SubaruWeberHoses-01.jpg
 
SubaruWeberHoses-02.jpg 
 
SubaruWeberHoses-03.jpg
 
Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 09:26 PM.


#16 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 17 February 2006 - 11:12 PM

Yep - that's pretty much how most of us have it.

Idea is basically to allow the engine to breath, and make sure that any air it takes in goes through a filter. You can do this by putting filters on each valve cover, and on the PCV, but it's easier for most of us to just use the filter we already have.

Looks good to me - I have the same setup, and no oil consumption or strange effects from it. If you look hard at the stock routing, you'll see that it's the same idea - just with the addition of a passive carbon canister to capture gasses.

GD

#17 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 18 February 2006 - 10:11 PM

It means that my Configuration setup is alright. Thank you So Much. :)

The Only thing I wanna Know is if the speedy Metallic Rattle Sound that I Hear between 750 / 1200 RPM's is a  "Normal Rattle of the P.C.V. Valve, or if that sound is something going Wrong, as it Started with this Hoses Configuration.

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 09:29 PM.


#18 dxrflyboy

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 07:31 AM

If the rattle is coming from the PCV valve (grab the valve and you feel a vibration) then it's normal. Not all of them will do it, but some will and there isn't much you can do about it besides experiment with different PCV valves until you find one that doesn't make noise.

#19 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 19 February 2006 - 09:42 PM

Thank you all for your Kind Help. thumbsup.gif


Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 09:34 PM.


#20 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 06 April 2006 - 09:20 PM

The K-731 retrofitting Kit, from Redline-Weber, came with two different sets of four bolts, to be used to bolt the first adaptor plate, to the intake manifold; one set at 6 mm the other set at 8 mm; however, only the thin ones fitted on the intake manifold without modifying it, but their heads were tiny and not enough to fill the openings for them at the adaptor plate, which felt loose; the thicker set of bolts would fitted perfectly filling the openings on said first adaptor plate, but to use them required a drill and tap job on the intake. Here's are a comparison photo of said two bolts:

Weberizado48.jpg

So, at first I used the 6 mm bolts on the Intake Manifold, which ended being loose and with time, it developed a huge vacuum leak between said first plate and the intake manifold, which was more noticeably when the engine was working at normal operating temperatures.

 

So, I sent the intake manifold to a mechanic Shop where they helped me to drill and tap the threads on it, from 6 mm (~ 1/4") to 8 mm (~ 5/16") in order to solve this issue.

 

I asked them to do that, because I was afraid to drill further deeply than specs, reaching the Coolant crossover passage that is Underneath, that would've Ruined the intake for sure. But they do that job perfectly, and the 8 mm bolts solved the loose plate problem, and the vacuum leak for sure.
 
Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 10:00 PM.


#21 gemery10

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Posted 07 April 2006 - 01:41 AM

Funny you should say that as you replied to me about finding the wrong size threads in my adaptor , saying I had the wrong kit,lol. I ended up drilling and tapping 8mm threads.

#22 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 07 April 2006 - 01:20 PM

Funny you should say that as you replied to me about finding the wrong size threads in my adaptor, saying I had the wrong kit,lol. I ended up drilling and tapping 8mm threads.

 

So sorry for that.

 

At the time you asked, I used the 6 mm bolts and everything went fine, for a couple of Months, so I didn't knew that; then recently it developed the vacuum leak and I realized it was due to the small heads on the 6 mm bolts, being not enough to fill the openings at the adaptor plate, and realized the reason why Redline added a second -bigger- set of bolts for that purpose.

 

The 8 mm bolts do fill the openings on the plate perfectly, but requires drilling and tapping the intake manifold, and not all the people want to do that, you know...

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 10:07 PM.


#23 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 08:55 AM

Thank you all for your kind advice,

you helped me a lot to Keep my Subaru, alive!

 

LoyaleTwins.jpg

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 10:10 PM.


#24 Loyale 2.7 Turbo

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Posted 30 November 2006 - 02:06 PM

I'm Very VERY Happy with the Weber Carburetor retrofitting  :)

 

JesZeK-SubaruEA82AnimatedEngine.gif

 

The Craptachi Never performed like this Weber.

 

Kind Regards.


Edited by Loyale 2.7 Turbo, 01 October 2016 - 10:13 PM.


#25 Singlecoil

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Posted 30 November 2006 - 02:33 PM

Thank you very much for resurrecting this thread. I've decided to buy the Weber today and put it on my '86 EA-82 (no power steering so that'll be easy).

I am a little leery about drililng and tapping in the 8mm screws as I have never done machine work like that. Is is absolutely necessary?




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