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A psycho boxer
#1
Posted 16 April 2006 - 01:05 PM
#2
Posted 16 April 2006 - 01:31 PM
Either you are delusional, or your engine probably has a bad main bearing.
All the subaru engines I've had that were in decent condtion ran butter smooth when properly tuned (usually with a weber). I've got one in my brat that has a slight bump to it at idle - previous owner neglected to change the oil pump, so now I get to rebuild it. In fact they usually run so smooth there is little indication they are about to throw a rod till around a mile before it happens.
GD
#3
Posted 16 April 2006 - 02:43 PM
#4
Posted 16 April 2006 - 05:01 PM
GD
#5
Posted 16 April 2006 - 05:10 PM
If you were to send your camshafts away to be rewelded and ground (alot more than just a simple delta regrind...) or had some manufactured, you could get it to work. BUT - like mentioned, your crankshaft has counterweights which allow it to be more balanced than other types of engines.
Even though a (an example engine) F22 Honda Accord motor has a really well designed internals in a motor (run-out, clearances, tolerances, bearings, couterweights, ect.) it is not a horizontaly firing motor like ours, and so therefor they require a harmonic balancer.
Our motors (especially the newer EJ motors where it is easier) you can get lighterweight crank pulleys because they do not depend on a dampening pulley (fluidamper, ect. also similar to V8's)
If you wanted this to work, you would really need new camshafts, and either rebalancing the crank to accept the new firing order, AND/OR a dampening style crank pulley (more mass=more reciprocating weight, less efficient means of power to the ground... thus why they make lightweight pulleys for newer subarus.)
So basically, you would have a horribly unbalanced motor, similar or worse to inlines (did I make the point in that our motors are WAY better in balance?) and you may or may not lose efficiency, overall power output, engine longevity, ect. ect.
But hey, say you did do the work and got it to run right, I could be wrong about the previously mentioned problems... in which case, rock on. different is good, but don't forget about the possible theoretical issues at hand.
#6
Posted 16 April 2006 - 06:38 PM
subaru engines are the smoothest runnin engines out there due to the flat H configuration. The shock on the connecting rods transfers over to the next firing cylinder, instead of going straight into the bottom of the crank like on a Inline, or V configuration engine
#7
Posted 16 April 2006 - 06:51 PM
IIRC, the Subaru engines use a cast crank as well, which can tolerate far more resonance than a forged crank, and actually is prefered in some high performance applications due to it's ability to flex and return to shape without damage more readily than a harder forged crank.
#8
Posted 16 April 2006 - 08:23 PM
#9
Posted 17 April 2006 - 01:34 PM
one of the things I think you fail to realize, is that one of the beautiful things about flat fours, is that they are ALREADY balanced - regardless of scale of the engine, a flat-4 is one of the few inhereltly stable engine designs - in fact, that is why it is consitered to be so advantageous over I4's, which are not inherently balanced - strait 6 engines, and V-12 engines are also naturally balanced, but for different reasons
#10
Posted 17 April 2006 - 05:26 PM
#11
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:31 PM
GD
#12
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:31 PM
#13
Posted 17 April 2006 - 06:53 PM
GD
#14
Posted 17 April 2006 - 07:35 PM
Donation from me soon, the manual in pdf format was priceless...
#15
Posted 17 April 2006 - 09:25 PM
I'm sure it would be worth it - you'll have a real nice engine on your hands. Could get some nice Delta cams for it, and milling the heads will up the compression just a bit plus compensate for the ground cams. 100 HP is not unatainable at all.
I'm not sure what a complete EJ22 swap would cost, but a decent engine will probably run about $300, and then you need the adaptor and flywheel - new clutch setup, etc. It's probably close to a wash, but the EJ22 gives you a bit more power. A lot more wiring involved.
GD
#16
Posted 17 April 2006 - 09:44 PM
if yours is a SPFI car, then any SPFI engine will work like stock - carb engines will work too, but they have a slightly different compression ratio, and all I've seen redline at 6k (87+ may redline at 6500)
if yours is a carb, the SPFI block will be a minor upgrade
be careful that you keep track of all the vacuum lines - they can cause issues if not connected properly
#17
Posted 17 April 2006 - 09:45 PM
I decided to change the firing order of my subaru with a sawz-all and $99 welder have a look (hopefully picture is below here) Just what I was after
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You were gonna do THAT with a sawzall and a 99 dollar welder!!??:-\
#18
Posted 18 April 2006 - 12:06 PM
http://93loyale.50megs.com/firoda.html
Now all i need is someone to tell me there is an error in drawing...
#19
Posted 18 April 2006 - 12:25 PM
I'm not sure what a complete EJ22 swap would cost, but a decent engine will probably run about $300, and then you need the adaptor and flywheel - new clutch setup, etc. It's probably close to a wash, but the EJ22 gives you a bit more power. A lot more wiring involved.
GD
GD is right about one thing leading to another. I've been down that road, and it does tend to get expensive. On the other hand, I just picked up a complete 92 Legacy with 162,000 miles for $250, and the engine is going into my 86 wagon. The adaptor plate is something you can build yourself, and the flywheel can be modified with a dremel or a round file. The EJ clutch is not needed, as the EA82 d/r 5 speed stays (mine's getting a turbo or XT clutch) and you can do the wiring. So it can actually be a lot less expensive to go the EJ22 route, and you get considerably more power.
#20
Posted 18 April 2006 - 01:50 PM
Where are some pics of finished Loyale Gl Dl swaps? I saw the flat-6 in the yellow wagon from here (impressive).
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