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New guy needs suggestions..
Posted 16 November 2006 - 10:34 AM
Posted 16 November 2006 - 11:56 AM
myself I would want lower gears, if you go with a second diff up front you could bring the engine back and drop the diff up inbetween the engine and transaxle this will bring the nose back 4-6" also brings the diff up so your engine can stay lower,would also need a transfercase , nissans 1:2 ratio ,or a sammy is 1:2.26 , with the sammy you can get some even lower gear sets, if its a sand type looking buggy you could even run a 3.7 diff up front and a 4.11 out back,that way you could have a 27" tire on front and run 31s on the back, heres a chart that shows what tire combos would work:
I would pick up a good running lagacy and use that as the doner , has a 4.11 rear diff, has a EJ2.2 has stronger axles and easy to find 5 bolt wheel pattern, the rear axle set up is more difficult as it runs struts and arms , all matters what you want and your ability SJR
Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:16 PM
Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:39 PM
.spending alot of time with ATV's and would kind of like to fit in .
add plastic fenders to fit in:banana: :cool:
Posted 16 November 2006 - 12:54 PM
Posted 16 November 2006 - 09:48 PM
Hell, it's a buggy, what do you want in it? Pretty much everything can be made to fit. Start with what you want to do with it, then work from there.
Sounds like a fun project. Once I get my Brat going with the new motor and everything I might just start on a buggy myself. We'll see.
Posted 17 November 2006 - 09:37 AM
OK..so your saying to take a rear diff and mount it in the front of the buggy. Then a transfercase and new driveshafts? It makes sense...have you seen anyone else do it?
there are a handful that have done the divorced transfer case route...
the power to weight ratio on an EJ22 vs any EA motor, is not really even comparable. and they're very light to begin with...if I was building some crazy custom thing like this, I'd definately go with an EJ22!
Posted 17 November 2006 - 02:56 PM
How and what you want your buggy to do is a big factor in building it. If you have in mind flying off dunes that's one thing. If you want to crawl up rocks that another, If your looking for a trail buggy that different again. How you envision using your buggy would be the first thing to settle, the build will follow. If I was going to crawl, I'd start with another platform. If I was going to fly off dunes, I choose a different kit. As I see it the Rhinobuggy series is more adapted to trails/hunting/recreation.
All the Rhinobuggies are built off the same chassis. The differences in the kits are only cosmetic in the body design. The basic chassis was designed for the EA81/DR combo. With this as a donor car there is nothing to modify nothing to buy. The EA82 is wider and the 5 speed has a two piece driveline. Both of these could be accomidated for in the build process but would require some re-engineering of the basic chassis design.
Horsepower is always good. Too much is a realtive term? I'd prefer the pep of my 2.5 Forester in the buggy but with the Carter/Weber and not much body weight, it gets around. Fuel injection can be swapped onto just about motor.
Summer looks nose heavy from certain angles. I changed the front just a bit to allow a better angle of approach. Unfortunately there is not much you can do if you are using a tranaxle in the classic configuration. The motor/tranny combo was built for a car. It puts weight over the drive wheels. This is good. The radiator could be moved up several inches by changing the frame. The radiator could also be relocated elsewhere? For my purposes? I don't intend to Jump Summer, so I really don't know (or care) if it is nose heavy. It stops great, has incredible traction. If your looking for a trail buggy, I think it's fine the way it is.
At this point in the build I could lift the back end off the ground.
Posted 18 November 2006 - 10:04 AM
Posted 18 November 2006 - 02:41 PM
an updated power plant won't weigh much more than the EA81. the weight difference should be the last of your worries when contemplating an EJ swap. But I would highly recommend it. the Phase 1 EJ22 is a very cool motor!
the Auto tranny's are crap for offroad. they use a clutch pack to transfer power to the rear end, and under load, will slip, leaving you with pretty much just FWD. also, with my experience with the 3AT, they're not strong enough to handle that kind of abuse.
Posted 20 November 2006 - 12:51 PM
Before you cut or have anyone cut steel you need to look at your plans carefully. You need to move or redesign the area just ahead of the firewall. Some of the frame rail bracing will rub (on extreme angles) with a 26" tire. (26" tire measures out to 25.5) The outboard angle brace to the frame rail (part #9) is the problem. Moving the wheels forward 1" would also work but would be a ton of work to keep it consistent with the plans.
This is the best picture I could find of the brace. In the picture it is the cross brace just at the top of the tire and has a blue aluminum piece on top of it. This is the problem piece, move it backward or move the wheels forward as you will hit it.
Also before you cut any steel you need to understand that the plans are for Right Hand Drive Subarus. Flipping the plans mirror image (to make it LHD) is not as straight forward as you may think. You will have problems in the pedal box area as the box is not flipped mirror image but all the mounts would be? Don't cut any steel until you have figured out this mirror image flip issue.
My recommendation would be to wait until you get back to start bending tube. I think the basic build could be accomplished in two weeks working after hours and weekends. Some tubes will need to be custom aligned to other exisiting tubes. Prefabing tubes will probably not save you time.
Posted 21 November 2006 - 03:25 PM
Posted 21 November 2006 - 06:42 PM
I've looked at new 6 lug rims and adapters but in the long run have a set custom made is cheaper in the long run.
adapters? who needs adapters? got a drill? go to the Junkyard, buy yourself a set of 6-lug chevy/toyota/isuzu/etc. steelies, and drill them out to the 4-lug pattern. or drill your hubs to 6 lug, and pound in new studs....
Posted 22 November 2006 - 07:17 AM
Posted 22 November 2006 - 11:02 AM
Numbchux...I considered the six lug option and where that would be the cheapest and easiest I want to run ATV tires and I cant find those in 15 inch...If I could I would definately go that way. Sweet 82...what coilovers did you use on the back?
there are 14" 6-lug wheels. IIRC from isuzus.
Posted 22 November 2006 - 01:22 PM
The Bug Pac shocks were designed for the off-road VW's. I figured similar size, weight and use vehicle? I didn't want a shock designed for a full size truck.
I think your too hung up on the nose heavy thing. The weight is over the wheels. It gets great traction. Your angle of attack (40+) is more than enough for the motor/gearing/tire combination. You'll never run into a wall steeper than that. If you do, you won't be able to scale it anyway.
Which brings up a point... I used DOM anywhere the rocks could touch metal. So my lower front grill supports are DOM. The tranny mounts are DOM. Anything that could meet a rock, I used DOM on. You may want to consider getting at least one length of DOM for those parts?
The "J" shaped pieces that the shackles are mounted on are DOM.
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