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So, what does most people use for the overflows now? Mt. Dew bottle zipped into place? Rather use something that looks somewhat factory.

Ok, I was finally able to figure out which connections would allow me to pull codes. The last owners seem to have done some interesting wiring changes so the typical connections were not available. I'm getting code 34 and 21 (I wish I had figured out the wiring sooner). These codes would confirm the EGR solenoid and coolant temp sensor are having issues. Just checked and both are getting power but the components have failed. RockAuto has the coolant sensors in stock for a reasonable price. The EGR solenoids seem to be elusive at best but I've heard it's possible to simply bypass with a direct line and some resistors. I've also read you can use old Toyota solenoids but it looks like the threads referencing this have a link to a website that no longer exists. Does anyone have a walkthrough on either the bypass or Toyota solenoid solutions? Cheers!

Wow, did not realize they were heavier.

I ordered some wire and terminals for the big three mod to see if that helps a little as well.

I went to start the car this morning and got a couple dim and blinking lights on the dash. No cabin lights and the car wouldn't start. Battery is charged and it drove fine yesterday

Just wait until you get into torsion bar specs. Brumby/brat are heavier than the wagon. And a mob over your way makes new ones that are 30% stiffer from what I’ve heard. Cheers Bennie

Pressure switch is forward just off the condenser in the HP line. I unplugged it, jumped it the plug and the AC worked. Plugged it back in and the AC works. A little corrosion cleaned maybe. It's so tight up front you can't see the connector very well. We'll see what happens! Thanks to all.

You're not the only one. I fortunately, didn't spend much time directly under the brats that I owned. If anyone has any spare parts, shoot me a PM.

Hrmm, I could have sworn the 2wd still had it, but it's been so long since I've seen one, I seem to be mis-remembering!

Thanks.

Replace them with the MLS units. I can’t remember the part numbers but others will. They’re from the EJ25 STi WRX model. You’ll thank yourself for going to that effort later. If you don’t, they’ll end up doing the external coolant leak thing. If money is tight, drop it in and run it. Over time you’ll see the leak develop. It won’t damage anything, especially if you regularly check the coolant levels. Cheers Bennie

don’t forget to swap in the “K frame” that all mounts from, it’s got the front upper mount for the rear diff Cheers Bennie

If it's the old school manual air, check the pressure sensor. It's somewhere on the condenser high line. Short it and see. The temperature sensor is some feedback transistor, you can't short it to test. Unlikely as it only cuts out when the temp is too cold. Unlikely the AC switch itself is bad, you can bypass it and force AC on by turning to full defrost. No idea where to begin with the auto climate control, never had to deal with one.

I’m having my mechanic replace the tires engine in my 2003 Forester. He ordered and received a 62K miles JDM EJ25 and he should be installing it this week. Should I have him replace the headgaskets before it goes in, or were the headgaskets on the JDM NA motors better than the cheap composite headgaskets used on the USDM engines?

Give me time, I'm still learning.

You're doing it wrong... you take off the shocks, then the three bolts on the trailing links, then the inner bushes, then drop the gas tank, then bolt up the 4x4 gas tank, the mustache bar and diff, and the trailing links with CVs...

Got the rear wheel bearing changed today. Freddo was right, they're like a boat trailer. I got one of the hatch struts replaced but the previous owner lost the brackets where they mount on the driver side to the body so I'm needing a set if anyone is selling. Also discovered I have a leaking transmission axle stub seal. Glad I threw a long cardboard box under it in the shop.

Yes swapped the relay no change. I'll dig into it a bit more. When I jumped the AC and the compressor kicked on it was getting cold. Thanks

If it's the single gauge one on the low side only. Yes it would read high, around 80-90psi when the system is off. Not much else to add about why it's not kicking on, but it's normal to see it high on a single gauge reading. Thinking it's more electrical than a system problem. Did you swap the relay with a similar one on the car yet?

Was the air in the cabin getting cold? If so, it sounds like something in the wiring or possibly a low pressure switch, but I’m not an a/c tech by any means.

Thanks for the replies . I had originally thought relays were either good or bad, never intermittant. After your replies I did a little research and found out that I was wrong, they can be erratic. I'll put one in next week and cross my fingers. I'll probably disassemble the old one and look for corrosion or damage. Thanks!

Unless you've had an engine swap to something uncommon, the fuel pump is what pressurizes the injectors. The injectors are electronically controlled valves, that let out a precise amount of fuel when the computer tells them to open and close. The fuel to them is supplied, at pressure, by the fuel pump. The only common exceptions to this are diesels, ancient satanic bosch fuel injection, and ultra-modern direct injection gas engines...

I had it service Nov 2024 after replacing the Evaporator due to a leak. Worked great till the other day. Then NO AC. No leaks and when I hook up the cheapo service gauge pressure is High, in the red. I pulled the AC Relay and jumped it. AC compressor kicked in and the gauge went into the green. I'll take it back to the service location, just thought I'd put this out there to get your thoughts. Thanks, Larry

Yep Relay would be my bet.