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I think what I'd like to do is clear the codes and see what ones surface again. I never cleared the TCM after I changed the Duty C solenoid. Not sure how to clear the codes though, since I retrieved them by grounding the #5 pin in the B58 connector. Anyone know how to clear the codes with this procedure? Or is there another way to clear the TCM codes?

Phase 1 Trans 24 Transfer duty solenoid: Short or disconnection in solenoid driving circuit 25 Engine torque control signal: Short or disconnection in engine torque control signal circuit Any ideas what is causing the code 25?

Load, Ground, Power. Could be the harness. LoadPro on youtube will give you some great troubleshooting tips.

Update: Was able to get the codes!!!! I have a code 24 & 25. I believe 24 is Duty C----I have a brand new one in there......oh well, can't always trust new parts. But I do plan on checking the Duty C according to the FSM just to make sure. I'll have to look up code 25. Thanks to everyone who helped.

I scored an Subaru EA81 engine that has been bored out to take 0.50mm Pistons just need to know what size rings I should be using.

Thread resurrection I know, but this is the post I found when starting out, but I eventually decided to go another route. Possibly less time consuming for those with a sewing machine and associated skills: Use synthetic fleece. At least in my case it looks pretty similar and does not need to be hemmed. Make a double-layered rectangle of the material that is bigger than your visor, and sew around the rectangle's perimeter. This is like a blank to keep the two layers together while you mark, sew, and cut in more detail. One long edge can be folded over instead of sewn. If there is a "nicer" side of the material that you want to be the exterior when you are done, that goes inside now. Remove the visor from the car. Lay it down on the blank. Mark an outline of it, erring on the side of slightly larger, maybe a quarter of an inch. Since fleece stretches you don't need much seam allowance. Also mark where the clip-in rod point is, as you'll have to put a hole there so it can clip in. Stitch around this marking, but start/stop such that there is a hole around where it attaches to the car large enough to slide the visor into. Cut around your stitching. Cut the hole for the clip-in point. If you are lazy (what I did) you can just do this to its exact side or even slightly smaller (since likely there will be some stretch as you put it on). If you want a more finished look (what would try to do if I were starting from scratch), cut a slightly smaller hole, then make some short relief cuts so you can fold it back in and hem it. Optionally, but nice-to-have if the OEM foam padding is gone, cut and apply iron-on interfacing on the interior to give a more padded feel. You may need to cut some fabric around the attachment-point hole, and may want to hem it afterward for appearance Invert the cover so the stitching and the interfacing are on the inside. Slide the visor into the cover. Hand stitch the last part by the post that attaches it to the car Here's mine. It's a bit rough: I cut too much by the attachment post, and if I were doing it again I'd try to hem around the clip-in rod. Maybe if I have time I'll do-over someday. This is not a collector car, though, just didn't want to be looking at bare MDF after the cloth disintegrated and ripped.

Hi everyone. Decided to join since it seems like over the last few years when I've been stumped with one of my Subarus, this place has had good advice from people who actually work on their cars. Hope I can add something of value myself. Currently have a 95 Sambar thats stock, the wifes 06 OBXT thats, uh, we'll call OEM plus, I'm not supposed to modify it but sometimes you know, when a part has to be replaced theres an improved option. I drive a 99 OBS with a 251 swap, Delta 1500 cams, and a lot of Subaru parts bin suspension stuff to make it somewhere in the WRX+ neighborhood. It's about to get a WRX 4/2pot brake setup. Formerly had an 02 Forester. Talked my buddy into buying an 08 OBK that I ended up being head crew chief on, and I'm on a search for another Subaru for the kids, who will be driving sooner than I'm ready for. Anyway, 🤙

You connected your EGR pipe to the airbox? Um.....

Imdew, sounds like you're just grabbing filtered air from wherever, right?

The distributors don't last forever. Plus, you need to take them apart and make sure that all the moving parts have grease and swing properly. I have gone through one distributor every 100,000 miles or less. The little black plastic electronic thing a ma jig in the center goes bad, then there is no spark to the plugs. As far as electricity to the injectors, that could be the black wire in the fusible links, that runs the entire engine. Another culprit could be the capacitor that wires into the coil, that will cause the engine to not start. Obviously, you have to have installed the timing belts exactly right, and you need prior experience to do that. Coils also go bad. Then there is the electrical connectors of the hot wire coming off of the alternator. That wire with the looped end connector loses it's conductivity due to overheating, so you have to cut back the lead and reinstall a new loop end to reattach to the alternator. Ground wires also lose their ability to conduct electricity at the body end of the wire. If they are stiff, they are bad. If before you took everything apart, and tried to run the electric windows at the same time the engine was running, but that caused the engine to miss or drop in rpm, then the ground wire is bad. I use two ground wires to be safe. There are two out of the six rectifiers under the dash over your left knee, that will cause the engine to not run. You can look for a burned one or replace all of them. Don't buy them from Subaru, because they will sell you the same rectifier that you can buy on the internet for$10, but for $50.

Hey everybody ! I’m having a problem with getting my XT (4wd turbo) to start, really at all, got it a while ago (was running on purchase) but had a stuck transmission and decided to pull both, put a ‘new’ trans in, and to pull and clean up a lot of seals and outside of the engine, fix some leaks, etc, didn’t mess anywhere inside the heads, or touch the distributor but redid the timing/belts IAW the FSM (car luckily came with all 6 sections) long story short, put it all back together and surprise crank no start, I've been digging through the manuals for weeks and i am hopelessly stuck, im new to Subarus, (and pre-OBDII in general) so any help anyone can give me would be greatly appreciated. we have fuel pressure, spark, air, good battery, and a stumble on starting fluid, but no power going to the injectors, all grounds per manual were cleaned and sanded, injectors were resistance checked as good, the diagnostic LED on the ECM is just on and unblinking and won’t throw a code at all and the FSM has sent me in circles and upside down looking for test plugs and modules, from what i can tell there’s no voltage going to the injectors during crank, and it might be a CAS failure in the distributor and it’s just not telling the ECM that the motors even moving hence no spray or the ECM has frozen or internally failed and I’m just not sure how to rule either of those out any insight to help get this ol girl started again? Or atleast a way to isolate the problem?

Sorry I read crank instead of cam. Cam gear on the EA71 is two small bolts. Same on EA81

Please investigate before you decimate. If it’s in the block. Heat and pullers won’t do anything.

A "more gentle" option may be an induction heater. If you don't have one yet, I'd recommend saving up for a decent Chinese one ($200 range), they work wonders. That way you're only heating up what you need to and you're not affecting the temper of the steel as much. I've never removed an EA81 cam gear, just my 2¢. Any machine shop worth their salt would tackle that no problem. :]

Welcome! USMB has been a great resource to me as well and glad it is still around. I'm grateful to all the contributors throughout the years.

Great! Thanks for the follow up. I hate it when repair threads have no resolution, good or bad.

I was told you’ve got to split the cases. I didn’t want to hear that too if that helps. Good luck. Post back how it got done please.

Is its safe to remove the old Camshaft Gear from Suby EA81 heating it using a Oxy torch, or is there another way, Ive git to replace mine.

I’ve been meaning to get back with an update on this: I finally got the car running again, and of course the problem was simpler than I thought. Turns out the wire from the distributor/ignition control module to the + terminal of the coil had come loose from the ring terminal connector. I don’t know how I missed it because I must have looked that wire over multiple times before, but I reconnected it, and it fired right up!

Hi all. Decided to join the message board after finding quite a bit of good info here when researching what I think was Duty C solenoid issues on my 96 Legacy wagon. My first car in 10th grade was a 98 Impreza hatchback and I've loved the EJ22/4EAT combo since then. My Legacy is at 200k now and I certainly don't expect it to be trouble-free since I hope to drive it to 300k. This board has been a help and I'm sure it will be moving forward. See you around!

I've left the valve and have tapped into the airbox. It works as well.

Yes. That's the EGR valve. You can definitely run without it, and some choose to do so. Happy would depend on whether you're OK with a permanent check engine light, the emissions laws in your state, and your comfort with increased NOx emissions.

So that's for EGR? That means I can just plug the hole and be happy, right?

Wow! That’s a pain.

This is right along the lines of what I had to do dropping a 2000 Legacy engine into a 2003 Legacy. They made the first two or three years of that era with the EGR but didn’t for the last two. Or the other way around. On that one, as you should do, keep the original intake. You’ll have to get the drill and tap for that EGR pipe. Don’t drill too deep. Take the other one out and measure that depth and put some tape on your drill bit as a marker. I think it’s an M22 x 1.5 but double check that. I might have that set still. I had loaned it but I think Jesse gave it back. But for me to find it right now would be tough. Otherwise I’d mail it to you. I had my daughter get it from Amazon and it was like $16 for the set. Use a smaller pilot drill first.