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I'll give the Turbo Beanie a shot for now! Love the name lol. I would like to remake the chimney, or something similar. I just gotta get my hands on a metal folder or bending break, whatever those things are called. I kinda liked the way the original chimney looked, but I'm sure some black spray paint will do the job.

I'm on the west coast, so sending my tank to those guys in PA might be a bit difficult for me, but I will definitely keep it in mind. The fuel filter right before the pump is a good idea, I don't know why I didn't think of that sooner! It would at least help keep it from eating my pumps lol. I'm kinda having to drive the thing regularly to get to work right now since my wagon is undergoing some of her own repairs. So as soon as she's done, I think I'll take out the tank and just, scrub away what I can and then give it a good so soak in some vinegar, and follow up with baking soda since that seems to work with other people. Hopefully just running it and changing out filters will clear up some gunk, and the bath will get the rest. I'll follow up with results!

Just thought I'd note something I learned. When you're installing the cam towers with the cams installed, you must first put on the rockers. The issue with the rockers is that you must use a lubricant to stick the rockers to the HLA's. If the lubricant you use is too thin, it will run down and could get on the sealing surface between the head and the cam tower. This will cause oil leaks since the RTV won't bind to the head. Rather than using an assembly lube, try using an assembly grease. Something very tacky with the viscosity of Vaseline or thicker. This will allow you to stick the rockers on without the worry of lube running onto a sealing surface. Once the cam tower is on, then you can use a normal assembly lube on the cam lobes and rockers. I still have to start up my engine and then do the retorque. I'll post back here if I learn anything when doing the retorque. :]

Uncovered some New Old Stock and re-chromed bumpers for gen one Brat and 4wd wagon. Listed on ebay. Check all out items on ebay under “cashingmystuffin”

You can't remove the core of the clutch cable. It has crimped attachments on both ends.

I personally prefer to use graphite for any of my cables. My speedo cable is starting to get pretty lazy and I have to pull out the inner cable from the sheath, run it through my hand with graphite cupped in my palm. Throw it back in and repeat the process when the needle starts its squeal and bounce routine. Not sure if it'll work with the clutch cable but you can pour it like a light oil and it doesn't attract dirt and doesn't harden like grease. You just have to be careful near electrical connections. Just food for thought.

Forgot to add my NOS cables are from the 70s and sat in a barn for a couple decades and on top of that now I’m a good 18 years after the lot purchase we made. Good luck.

Check for a crack in thr pedalbox. Left side near the pivot pin. Get down there and either press the clutch pedal with a hand ot have someone else do it while you observe the left side of the box. If it flexes at all you’ll likely have that crack. Do it regardless of all you’ve done and learned. This is a common problem. I have new old stock cables i sometimes need and they’re fine. If anything just a squirt of lube. But they're coated and should not bind much until many many many years of weather and grime.

You may be able to buy the 88 wiring with the used 88 distributor from the source that I mentioned. One additional electrical issue that I have on my 86, is the hot wire from the alternator, gets hot, gets brittle and breaks within about 6 inches of the alternator or at the alternator. Then the engine runs on the battery until the battery is dead. Then is won't crank the engine over and everything is as dead as a door nail. Also, both distributor cap bolts need to be down tight. There are issues with the diaphragm not allowed the forward screw, not able to be fully tightened.

It would be the 85 to 94 EA 82 engine series. I am assuming that nothing improved with the loyales as I was working on an 86 turbo. An additional note, I squirted as much lithium grease in each end of the cable as I could get, before installation. After installation, I noticed considerably less resistance in the operation of the clutch.

The crusty bolts are the ones that go into coolant passages. I wouldn't remove just two bolts. If you absolutely have to remove two bolts, untorque the whole head star-pattern in increments, remove and do whatever on the two bolts, and then re-torque all per specs. I use grease on the washers and heads (doesn't matter what kind of grease; axle is fine), then dip the threads in engine oil and wipe them off on a shop towel to remove excess. Someone told me a story of cracking a block with hydraulic pressure from installing dripping bolts and then torquing them, so I make sure it's not enough to be drippy.

Last time I had a dirty tank that kept clogging stuff... I put in the largest filter I could find before the pump, and changed it as needed until the problem went away.

Did someone plumb the solenoid into a fuel line? heh

Might want to clarify what year range/models you're working on. I'm guessing a few years of EA82? EA81 came in a few different varieties, none of which are anything like that.

Well the ignition coil won't go past 6v when cranking, even if we jump it to 12v it won't spark out. The distributor we bought was from a running 87 so we don't want to waste more money until we are absolutely sure the distributor is bad. But also we want to know what the wiring on the 87 distributor are so we can hook up the correct wires, but we think we did but we do want to make sure.

CLUTCH CABLES last about the life of 1 1/2 clutches, or about 150,000 miles. I am leaving a few tips here for your future search when you can't find a mechanic who can figure this one out. I came up with two tricks to help considerably in this nightmare of a project. The first trick is to fashion your own spring compressor out of rebar tie wire, going from one side at one end, to the opposite side at the opposite end, with a circular loop, and then do the mirror image for the other side of the spring. Set the spring in a vice with a 10mm socket over the rod end, in order to compress the spring to be as short as possible. You will have to remove the spring from the clutch lever arm in order to do this, and then reinstall the spring with the compressor still attached, before attempting final reassembly. The second trick is to fashion two 6 mm x 35 mm bolts with a filed down point on the end, to replace the two 6 mm x 30 mm bolts in place. The lower one of those bolts should be inserted in it's proper hole in the loose base retainer for the spring, before the spring is reinstalled between your loose clutch lever are and your loose base retainer for the spring. The reason for the spring compressor is make it possible to slip both the brake lever arm and the holed end of the base retainer, over the main lateral pivot bolt for both the clutch and the brake. The reason for the pointed end bolts is that you won't likely be able to use the existing bolts and get them to find the hole to which they are anchored in the anchor plate. So to help with terminology. From left to right, at the front of the clutch assembly, you have the spring assembly, the base retainer for the spring, the actual clutch cable Tee end with two holes, and then the anchor plate. The clutch lever arm has three attachments. One to the main lateral pivot bolt, one to the back end of the compressor spring, and one to the back end of the clutch cable. Subaru no longer makes these cables and there is only one supplier. Those clutch cables are quite stiff due to sitting around for 10 years. Which makes them difficult to work with. Although the Subaru manual says to remove the entire brake and clutch assembly from the firewall, I removed all 4 of those bolts and it would not budge. Furthermore, you are not going to get it very far from the fire wall with that assembly because the right end of it extends over the top of the steering column to the accelerator.

Hi again! Tried searching the forum for similar issues and couldn't find exactly what I was looking for - this might be two issues, or fifty-three issues, or they might be related to one unifying issue, so I'm just gonna put it out there. Recently (last 6 months or so), when I turn my ignition to "ON" without starting, the check engine light flashes (instead of just being steady-on) and there's a relay clicking constantly. I think it's probably the fan relay, because the fans also come on, but only for a second, then it clicks off again, sort of like when the green diagnostic connectors are connected under the kick panel, except they're not. Don't know if those two things are related (the CEL rapid flashing in "ON" position and the relay clicking), but the second part of the issue, or maybe a brand-new issue, started today. While driving around today, after having installing a new battery a couple days ago, the check engine light came on steady. So I stopped, attached the test connectors (the black ones) and got a fistful of codes. But the weird thing is, while waiting for them to cycle through again so I could double-check them, they changed. As in, started throwing codes that don't exist. Like..."8." and "5." It looks like the CEL got interrupted in the middle of flashing, so like, going from a long flash to a quick flash - maybe the code was supposed to be 18, but the long flash got cut off and made a short one, making it look like 8. This happened a few times, to a few different codes, leaving me not knowing exactly what the hell numbers I'm looking at 😂 What I *think* the codes were trying to say: 45,23,24,13,14,15,16,18? (Atmospheric sensor; airflow sensor; air control valve; cam angle sensor; fuel injector #1-3; and oh wait there is no code 18 so I really have no idea). The car appears to be driving fine. No stumbling, no cutting out, no weird smells (mostly). The only eyebrow-raising thing as far as function goes is that when I first installed the new battery (fully charged, of course), it didn't want to start right away, and then stumbled, almost died, and blew a lot of smoke (light-colored) out the tailpipe (sort of like my previous MAF problems, which I thought were solved). But once I got it to stabilize and the smoke cleared, it's been running fine since then, and only hesitated slightly to catch today after I pulled the codes. Does anyone know what the issue might be? Bad ECU, maybe? It's been replaced once, but not terribly recently, so I don't know how long the things should last. Or am I overlooking something really basic? Many thanks!

Or add to the lift! Drop the subframe.

The trip computer beep also comes on when your power steering fluid is very low.

Stuff all the synthetic grease into the old bearings that you can. You might use some 2000 grit sandpaper and see what you can take off on the CV axle.

Lower the lift. Problem solved.

Helicoils are a joke. The solid steel inserts, by whatever brand, and with thread lock on them are the only way to go. Don't over drill the hole and it is better to be too shallow and grind off the excess, than too deep and spring a leak.

Why not just get an 88 distributor from Johns Subaru in Gaston Oregon? The brains in them, burn out every 100k or so. In my 86 GL10, there are two relay switches beneath the dash, that can cause the engine to not fire. They don't last forever, and should be replaced when it is in your garage, instead of paying for a tow off of some mountain top. The black fusible link also allows the engine to run. Mine went out on some back road in BC. The condensor/thingamajig that runs from the coil to the engine ground, can blow and not allow the engine to run. Coils can blow and should produce 12 volts. A cracked distributor cap may also cause the engine to quit, like it did with mine on a snowy pass at 15deg F in Colorado. Corroded fuel injector connectors will cause problems, particularly with the #1 cylinder. The black box over your knees can go out. The engine to body ground can get overheated, brittle and lose it's ability to pass sufficient current to run the engine. That happens at the screw to the body. Just wait until your clutch cable goes out. You don't know what problems are until you have to replace a clutch cable.

Yes, this is right question you ask, if the purge is non-operating, and closed tightly, as I think, then why would capping the manifold port make any difference. I’ll be able to get the brat back in about a week.

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