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The spring clips need to be pushed in so they go in the notch in the pad, not sticking out on top.

I think there's a hidden filter in the injector. You might try seeing if it's got a chunk of decaying fuel line or something stuck in it, that might happen to the new injector.

I found the problem! Swapped throttle body top 2 layers. This include fuel pressure reg, IAC valve, and Injector. Runs fine now. Since the regulator measured good, and the IAC was swapped earlier, I'm going with the injector is bad.

Yeah, I figured the IAC shouldn't bother open throttle. I did have a wagon years ago that had a broken wire in the IAC circuit years ago. It ran fine, but died if I let the pedal go to idle. I also put a voltmeter on the 12V powered side of the ignition coil, and it was steady except for slight variations because the alternator rpm varying.

The IAC has no effect at open throttle, so it's easy to rule out anything to do with it.

I've had a wire break inside the engine harness to the IAC before. I've also had several connectors have poor terminal connection. Then again, I would typically get a CEL but not all the time. Since you have no hard starts I don't suspect a wiring issue with the IAC. The fact that you've swapped a majority of the typical suspect components and it still acts the same leads me to think an intermittent connection somewhere.

More things checked - Spark plug wires, checked ok, but swapped anyways, no effect. TPS switch and pot both are withing normal settings / ranges. One other thing I forgot to put in the OP, it starts right up no problem - no hard start.

Have you checked the values and calibration of the TPS? I'm not as familiar with the autos as I am with the manuals. Isn't there a drop down circuit that senses when you go in gear and it'll drop the idle?

SPFI in 93, I think I read to 94. I checked the EGR valve after the OP, and yes, it is working normally. Took it off to check that it wasn't stuck open, etc.

I'm thinking of the mpfi version. they were still doing spfi in 93? Shows how many of those I've worked on. lol Sorry, my bad. egr valve stuck open?

@bushytailsadvice was exactly what I needed. I just finished up my brake job tonight. Thanks again man!

Coolant normal. Fuel pressure stays steady at 22 PSI, just like my other EA82 SPFI wagon. Never moves vs throttle position or load. No recent fuel up. The roughness seems more random than cylinder specific. I'll try to check the exhaust pulses tomorrow. I also swapped the distributor since the original post, no change.

I haven't troubleshooted that problem on one of those, so just some random ideas... Does fuel pressure go up to 35+ when you give it gas, and stay there as the rpm drops? Did you recently get gas, or other chance of contaminated fuel? Sample a bit into a clear container from the pressure test port if not sure. Does the exhaust coming out the rear feel normal, with distinct pulses per cylinder as it idles? Does it feel like all cylinders are weak, or like one or two cylinders are cutting out? Coolant level and condition normal?

This car is in a garage, driven a couple times per week. Suddenly, yesterday while driving, - Runs rough. Idle, dies. Idle in N dies. I did manage to drive it home, Seemed to run ok down the road, not acting like starved for fuel. In N, press the gas and hold, the RPM goes up, [example 2500]. Then after a second or 2 drops about 500, and the roughness returns. Does this regardless of what RPM you get initially - goes up, then drops back. Does this hot or cold. Capped the vacuum tap on the passenger side, no effect. This eliminates EGR, Evap, HVAC controls as possible culprits. Capped the vacuum tap for the brake booster, no effect. Distributor cap & rotor look normal, not loose. Timing belts are good, not jumped. Swapped the MAF, no effect. Swapped the IAC valve, no effect. CTS has nominal normal readings. Fuel pressure normal 22-23 PSI. Ignition coil & igniter swapped, no effect. ECU swapped - Still runs crap / same, but doesn't quite die at idle in N Running out of ideas....

Ah oh thanks i tried searching online and i that i could find was something about auto darkening mirrors but i couldn't find if these models had that.

Side mirror heater.

Hey all i just acquired this 2000 Subaru legacy outback wagon used and i was wondering what if anything this button is supposed to do? IDK if it had a label/decal if it did its worn off.

Thanks man, that's a heck of a writeup!

I hate trying to remember things. It's not like I've done this several dozen times or anything. lol. I'll try... The thumbnail (I haven't watched the video) shows the drive flange and caliper mount removed. Don't need to do that if just doing pads. The only bolt you need to remove is the little one on the bottom caliper slide pin, then rotate the caliper up. Squeaker goes on inner pad bottom. If you use the pad from the other side of the car, the squeaker will end up on top, and gets mushed by the caliper and makes noise instantly. Pads go in bottom first, push the spring clip in so it goes in the notch in the pad, angle the top of the pad in, do the same with the upper spring clip. The pads will sit perfectly flush and solid on the rotor when the clips are all properly sprung. Any wiggle at all means one of the clips isn't in the right place. Regrease the slide pins every time you do brakes. On the top one, slide the caliper off, wipe the pin clean, coat with fresh high temperature grease (ceramic, often purple - not wheel bearing grease), put a bit of grease in the caliper, slide caliper back on. For the bottom pin, pop it out from the boots, do the same thing. Failure to regrease will cause them to get sticky and trash your pads. Work back and forth and pop boots back on once sliding nice and smooth. A bit of brake fluid also works well for lubricating the boot. Spin the piston in with any available tool until it's almost flush with the casting. Align the piston so the V notches face parallel with the claws, that is, the short way across the caliper, which will be radially in and out when the caliper is installed. When you rotate the caliper back onto the pads, there's a bump on the back of the inner pad that needs to end up in one of the notches. If you have the piston rotated the wrong way, it will end up on top of the bump, and may mush the piston or your brakes will suck until it self-rotates until it lines up. If the piston is difficult to spin in, the caliper is crusty, and may also drag. If you spin it in, then step on the pedal three times to push it back out, then spin it back in, etc, a few times, you can get it sliding a bit better. Or wear your seal out more. One or the other. Spring clip kits are still available and are dirt cheap if you need them. After you put the new pads in, and spin the piston back in, making sure it's rotated to the position where it'll sit over the bump when you tilt the caliper back down, tilt the caliper down and reinstall the bolt in the lower slider. You'll usually need to push the slider pin back a bit to get the caliper down, then wiggle it around to line the bolt up with the hole. Then, with the car off, step on the brake pedal several times until it gets solid. Then do a visual inspection to make sure the pads are still sitting perfectly flush on the rotor. Then put the wheel back on. The brakes will suck at first; I usually power brake for a little on a quick test drive. You may need to step on the pedal hard a few times to get the e-brake to adjust, depending on caliper crustyness level.

A little Marvel Mystery Oil in that boot before you turn it.

Thanks Freddo. I will try next time I'm out in the shop your method of putting it back on the knuckle and see if that works better. I have one of those caliper screw in tools and I did see the boot on it was trying to twist on me so I was being super easy with it. I had been running back and forth over to the passenger side to look how it was installed as a point of reference. I was missing all the pad clips on the caliper on the driver side but luckily the dude I bought this wagon from had a ton of parts that included an extra caliper/rotor that I scavenged the clips from and threw in the parts washer for a few minutes.

What's a year between friends?

Looks like they might be aftermarket headlights. There are variations between various years.

Long video! I leave the caliper bolted to the hub knuckle and flip the caliper up by taking out the lower slide bolt. That piston can be really hard to rotate. You need some pressure on it too. Once you get the first rotation done they usually become easier. I have a multi tool socket that fits the grooves in the piston face. This allows me to apply some pressure as I rotate the ratchet in one hand. Works a treat for me. If the dust boot is damaged you might have dust that can grip the side of the piston. Worse you might have the side of the piston corroding. All the best with it. Not the most fun job on the MY and L series.

So, what's the correct method for getting new brake pads to slot in correctly to the calipers? I have tried following this guy's video but he makes it look stupid easy. I'm either not holding my mouth right or doing it totally wrong.