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Stop by an auto store and ask them to try reading it with their scanner. If they can, at least you know the wiring is good.

What year is the donor vehicle and engine management system from?

@itb482 - what’s your dizzy doing or not doing that requires it to be replaced? My first thought was to have the cam belts checked to make sure they’re not broken. If the LHS belt is broken your dizzy and cam won’t spin when cranking. I doubt you’ll find a turbo any better than the one you have now. You might be able to adapt a new one from a turbo ATV, they’re probably about the right size. Cheers Bennie

I have a parts guy, we're going to get in contact this weekend (he's busy out of town at the moment) to see when we can meet. I need to get over there asap to pick up an engine while mine out of my GL is being rebuilt (6 months at this point). I know he's got a turbo car, no clue on his prices. If you PM me a list of parts (stuff you'd want for the future?), I'll ask. I know he's got a turbo car sitting there. I also have a turbo cylinder head I'm not going to use since mine is N/A. I just got it for a really good price. If you're interested PM me and lmk. :] P.S. https://turbochargersdirect.com/turbochargers-direct-remanufactured-oem-turbo-for-subaru-gl-xt-rx-and-loyale-1-8l-tur-106018-tdr/?srsltid=AfmBOoqOzF6v587m_TyQszG6yslhtNdmZ1ZJRiWPfLog9jMkZBbPHLPI

Heyo everybody! Recently joined the Subaru clan back in 2023 with a 6mt Crosstrek I got the manual with the goal of drivetrain modifications (CVTs, Eyesight, and other modern Subaru features don't always lend itself well to modifications). I started with a 2 inch lift and changing tires/wheels to 235/75/r15s and have slowly added upgrades from there. Last summer I put in a dual range 5mt with the 1.447 reduction with a torsen LSD in the front diff. The 6mt came with the diffs with the 4.44 final drive, with the dual range lo gearing it gets me a 23:1 crawl ratio Custom fabrication that I've done to upgrade my rig: rear tire swing out, high clearance front bumper, dual range shift lever with a Polaris side-by-side shift cable. Currently upgrade I'm putting in is a Torq locker in the rear diff, I'm curious to see how that helps with traction My long term plan is to get a divorced tcase setup running. I think this will be fun to do on a modern Subaru.

I have a 1982 VW Vanagon with a 2.5 Subaru conversion. Need some help getting my OBD 2 scan tool/Veepeak dongle to connect with the ECU. The van came with a Veepeak OBDCheck BLE and on my phone I am using Car Scanner. Given the van came with the Veepeak dongle, I am presuming that at one time it all worked. The Veepeak dongle does work fine on my 2011 Dodge Ram. I have checked for 12V at pin 16 and ground at pins 4 and 5, all good. I do have an aftermarket radio but I can’t see it connected to any K Line; my voltage at pin 7 is less than 9 V so even if that was the case it would apparently be fine. I have replaced the OBD 2 port with a new one to ensure the pins are connecting well. Would really like to get this working for both diagnostics and dashboard instrumentation. Any thoughts?

Hello all! I have a new to me 1986 GL10 Turbo that I attempt to daily for work. It was working and then it wasn’t (the story of all things great). I work in EMS so my mechanical knowledge is pretty 101 level. it does while driving and then was dead at the key. I check all of the obvious stuff and tried jumping it. No dice. Had it flat bed towed to the shop we take our cars to and they said that the distributor and corresponding parts needs replaced. The mechanic was a former Porsche/Subaru guy so generally what I’d call reliable. the problem is that it’s old and parts are super hard to find. The ones found online didn’t match the ones in the car (rock auto for example). I’ve tried reaching out to a local shop in Salisbury (Higgins) that deal in old Subarus since they often keep old cars on site. They have insisted that they will get to the old cars that might have the part but those cars are buried on their lot and I’ve waited five weeks. I just want my car back and working. It was also suggested to me to start looking for another turbo for replacement. Not critical to the function of the car but would be strongly advised. where can I find these parts? Does this forum have folks who are selling this stuff? I’m sort of at the end of my rope and don’t want to sell a non functioning car that I know would work with the correct part. thanks in advance. point of clarity. My Subaru is at my shop- not Higgins.

I have a 2001 Subaru Forester L trim automatic, last owner put ej253 from 2005 outback. Both are SOHC but new engine is cam actuators (left unplugged as ej251 wiring doesn't have plug) Engine block is ej253 (with cam actuator) and everything else including timing gear is from 2001 forester (ej251) Now i am facing CEL light with P0341. I have checked and done diagnostic as per subaru repair manual. Link to photo and video gallery for reference

I would check fuel pressure regulator if it has fuel in top vacume hose or that hose is loose or cracks. I prefer to use subaru named brands only because subaru cars don't like aftermarket or other brand parts in my experience. After fuel pressure regulator would be fuel rail and injectors. Then maybe bypass fuel filter if its fuel issue. But there must be other signs like at idle, normal speed, top speed response.

2001 subaru forester with engine swap from 2005 outback and now having P0341. Its well taken care of by its age

I own multiple classics and rarely install extra gauges in any of them. I'll confirm the OEM gauges are operating normally and leave it at that. The KISS principle makes life much easier for me. I don't need to know the exact numbers, only that I'm in a normal range. Engine temperature is all I really monitor closely since I drive my wagon through the Phoenix summers with A/C always cranked to the max. I know from using an infrared gun that 3/4 needle sweep is normal in the summer and about 206F measured at the thermostat housing. In winter, the needle reads about half way and equates to around 190F. For oil pressure, I installed a temporary T with a mechanical gauge at the filter and after a good hot freeway trip with the engine at idle, I still have good pressure. When you have good oil pressure at hot idle, you will always have good oil pressure at any other engine temperature or RPM. Since I have an idiot light for oil pressure, I make sure the bulb is working as I start it each day. If I let the clutch out a little fast and almost kill the engine, I'll see the oil light flicker when the RPM's drop below spec. That's another confirmation that the oil pressure switch is working fine. For fuel pressure, I only check that if I install a new pump. Again, I have installed a temporary port under the hood and confirmed pressure is in spec. After that, I remove the gauge and forget about it.

I wouldn't mind the stock gauges, but they are so vague. My GL has the fancy gauge cluster with voltage, oil pressure, and temp. But I'd like actual values rather than relying on a 35 y/o gauge without values. I actually don't know if my oil pressure gauge works. The P/O had a mechanical gauge installed where the dash clock was and this leaked oil all over the dash wiring harness and he cut into the defrost vent to get the gauge to fit. That really didn't help on a Wisconsin winter morning. I just like numbers for monitoring and diagnostic. :] If I had to choose one gauge to not get, it'd be the fuel pressure.

I'll agree that extra data is fun to work with but constantly monitoring your fuel and coolant pressure in an EA82? I have the ultra basic (no tach) factory instrument package in my 87 DL 5-speed. The coolant temp gauge and the oil pressure idiot light are enough for me and got this wagon to 255K miles so far. Sometimes less is best for simplicity sake.

ISSPRO has them. I'd go all ISSPRO since they're good quality and come with sensors and harnesses. But they cost a pretty penny, thus this discussion before I spend that chunk of change. Plus you can program in custom warning lights and change the backlight colors. :]

I Tee’d my mechanical coolant temp gauge into the heater hose on the outlet from engine hose. Works a treat. Personally I wouldn’t like to Tee into the factory location, moving both sensors away from the direct flow of the coolant wouldn’t be an accurate reading. I’ve not seen a coolant pressure sensor as a standalone aftermarket gauge, but I’m not looking for one either. Many ppl feel comfortable with electric sensors and gauges over the older mechanical equivalents. I’d buy from a reputable brand that you can get some after sale service with if it’s ever needed. Cheers Bennie

So if i disconnect my pc from the internet and change the date will it work?

you need a computer that has never been on the internet since greenspeed

I'd like to install some electronic aftermarket gauges on my dash to display more data and keep tabs on the health on my EA82. Electric gauges since I wouldn't have to run fluid lines into the cabin. Though I prefer the simplicity and cost of mechanical gauges. The gauges I'd like to install are oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, and coolant pressure. The reason for the coolant pressure is that I'd, in theory, be able to see if my coolant pressure is spiking/ rising and thus detect head gasket leaks into the cooling system. Also monitor the water pump performance. For my coolant temp, I'd thought of installing a T-fitting to where the stock coolant temp sensor sits, allowing me to keep the stock one and add on the additional sensor. Will this affect my temp readings? Would this cause turbulence in the cooling system? Would air cooling the fitting throw off my readings? Would my readings be affected by the sensor being repositioned in relation to coolant flow? I've never messed with aftermarket electric gauges before and I'm open to thoughts and opinions before I go and spend the money on the gauges and sensors. Thanks :]

Makes sense. Thanks for the explanation of cylinder washing. I wouldn’t think you’d lose that much compression though unless rings are super shot already. But I could be wrong on that too. I too said it was unlikely all four cylinders would have a stuck valve. This one seems almost the same as removing the spark plugs and cranking. Cheers Bennie

thanks folks. I forgot to mention there are no leaks/drips under the car.

since it pumps back up, I figured it isn't a cracked lever. The problem seems more hydraulic in nature?

I'm the one who suggested that the cylinders were washed. lol. The piston rings seal with a very thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall. If you ever get fuel without starting, like trying to get a bunch of old gas and a dirty carb to run, the fuel washes this thin oil coat off the cylinder walls, and you lose compression. Fixing the problem that caused it not to start (i.e. flushing bad fuel, and dismantling and cleaning a gummed up carb), and starting it, will get oil slung back onto the cylinder walls, restoring the ring seal, and restoring compression. Sticky valves or such aren't going to happen simultaneously to all four cylinders from a running engine... Mechanical things that could affect all cylinders at once are a broken crank, broken cam (I saw this once! ... but there was a lot more broken too), broken timing gears, slipping ring gear (so you're not actually cranking the engine), etc... But if the accessories and dist are turning, those are all going to be fine. Broken cam or timing gears also cause a distinctly different sound, since some cylinders will be stuck with both valves closed, and compress each revolution - the sound of an EJ ready for a timing belt and half the valves replaced.... Am I positive I'm right? Of course not. They could have blown both headgaskets at once, or some other simultaneous multiple failure. Or the engine is total crap and never actually had any approximation of full compression but was limping along. But, based on my experience, I think it's the most likely diagnosis, which is why I said "probably".

whats the chances that you might feel generous enough to send me a link to the 11-14 wrx version? and maybe im really lucky and timmy1236 feels like explaining his work around for the serial lock issue?? any help is greatly appreciated guys!!

1+ Flush and bleed they system. New hose master to slave if it's original.

Other things to check in addition to whats mentioned above... Check the pedal assembly under the dash. Those years can get cracks in the pedal bracket. Remove and check the pivot pin itself for wear. I've long since replaced mine with a hardened bolt, washers and locknut. Is 2006 the a push clutch? The stamped fork tends to crack overtime. Hard to check though. Pull clutch uses forged fork and has no issues.